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spotrot's avatar
spotrot
Explorer
Oct 16, 2013

Pics: Slide mechansim, Winnie/ Power gear / Kwickee

In case some members would like to see the guts of the FLS DigiSync slide used on many Winnie and Itasca models:

The motor (electric, 12V) is bolted to the small gear box and is sold only as an assembly for about $275.

The gear box is bolted to the outer slide tube which is bolted to the RV frame and thereby is stationary.

The short gear box shaft slides into to the long acme gear shaft and is pinned to it so that the shaft spins when the motor is turning. The far end of the acme screw shaft is held by the rectangular black plastic piece that slides into the inner slide tube.

A plastic 'nut' ($6 - but shown broken here) is threaded onto the acme screw shaft and attached the inner slide tube by two dowel pins. When the motor and acme shaft turn, it forces the nut and therefore the inner tube to move in or out within the outer tube. The slide is bolted to the inner tube, so it moves in or out when the motor turns.

  • If the nut is broken, the crank won't do anything. Therefore I just pushed that end of the slide in (and out when I wanted).

    If the motor/gearbox is broken then the crank will work to retract the slide. I don't know if cranking the slide in just to see how the crank works will not harm anything. It might be OK, I just don't know for sure.

    I'm glad this post is of use/interest to some. Other forum members have helped me a lot by their posts.
  • CloudDriver wrote:
    Thanks for posting the picture. Pretty sure that we have the same system in our Minnie.

    Our Minnie also came with two long crank handles that the dealer told us were to be used for emergency slide retraction if the drive mechanism failed. Fortunately, that hasn't happened. I have always wondered exactly how the crank handles were used. Since you show a broken part, did you have to crank the slide in?

    We have what we need on board and have manually cranked the slide to be sure. Best to learn the manual cranking procedure in your driveway, rather than in Death Valley and the same with a fan belt.
    Just sayin......and it's no fun to be towed and/or waiting, whether it might be for free or not.
  • Thanks very much for the follow up post. Fingers crossed that I'll never hove this issue, but good to have this information just in case.

    Bookmarking this thread.
  • Job completed. Works again. If I had to replace the plastic acme nut again, it would take less than 2 hours on the rear slide. (The front silde is harder to get to.) Removing the steel spash shield was the hardest part - it was not designed to be removed when the coach is on the frame.

    I clean and lubed the slide armw with silicone spray; it felt like a reasonalbe amount of friction. I don't know why the nut failed but a recent tech notice said not to stop the slide while going in or out. So I'll try that and see what happens.

    The parts used were:
    (1) plastic acme nut 162832-01-702 nut $6.25
    (2) 5/16 clevis pins 162832-01-700 clevis pint $8.05/ea
    (12) plastic rivets 162832-01-701 rivet $2.05/ea

    Q&A from Power gear in case it's of interest:

    1. Do the actuator sensors need to be zeroed? [The instructions suggest that
    retracting the slide fully and waiting 60 seconds is all that is needed]
    !A.Reset the slide out by pressing the pin hole in the center of the wall switch. both light flash , release pin hole button. use in and out buttons to retract the slide out room completely in , release the buttons. Wait 1 minute or until the lights stop flashing and operate slide out as designed.

    2. Does the acme nut need to be installed at a certain place on the acme
    shaft? The old one was in pieces so no measurement could be made. [I think
    this is not a problem: the acme nut will naturally be in the right place
    when the shaft is turned to close the slide and all parts are reassembled]
    2A. no. as you will follow step one procedure to time the rails.

    3, Is there a way to test the current limit sensors to make sure power to
    the motor shuts off before actuator gears or acme nuts are stripped?
    3A. yes, if we know the slide out control box part number we can tell you the amp max rating and stall rating of the control program.

    4. Do the FLS actuators have a brake function -- or should the slide be
    strapped or braced when closed?
    4A. No brake is on the slide out motors or rails. the gear box of the linear actuator hold the force of the slide out in while traveling , unless the slide out manufacturer has installed room lock in the roof or sides of the slide out room. Consult the coach manufacturer for that option for room locks.
  • When it broke, I simply pushed the broken rear end of the slide in (or out) while my wife pressed the button to move the front end. I actually did this for the remainder of my 5,000 mile trip when we stayed over 2 nights.

    If the nut is broken, the cranks won't work. The cranks will work if the motor, wiring, or gearbox fails. And they are supposedly only to be used to retract the slide.
  • Thanks for posting the picture. Pretty sure that we have the same system in our Minnie.

    Our Minnie also came with two long crank handles that the dealer told us were to be used for emergency slide retraction if the drive mechanism failed. Fortunately, that hasn't happened. I have always wondered exactly how the crank handles were used. Since you show a broken part, did you have to crank the slide in?