Placement low point drains on 2005 Mtn Aire gas

I did find the low point drains and they ARE in the WATER cabinet but hidden sort of. NOT marked at all and if you go underneath neither is red or blue but got them and emptied, winterized by blowing out the pipes and sucked up the antifreeze including the washer/dryer. I LOVE THIS RIG.

Hey, check this out on the Newmar site. Went there to get you the phone number and found this:

Newgle

Lets you look online for things like schematics and so on. They need your coach serial number and last 8 of your VIN when you sign up. Takes 3 days it said to get the login. Guess they will only let you look stuff up for your own coach.

EDIT: The phone number is 1-(800)-731-8300

Mine also has 2 valves to empty the fresh water tank. one on each side of the coach. Guess it gives you the option of draining from either side depending upon which way the water will run, or open both to drain twice as fast. Sure would make things easier it they were consistent from year to year.

Worst case, you can always contact Newmar and ask them. They are usually very helpful.

I see no low point drain in outside shower area but will look again tomorrow in my 2003 Mountain Air Newmar gasser. I did find a valve on the right side and the left side but both appear to be to empty the FRESH WATER tank? Why would they have two valves for one water tank?

The low point drains on my Mountain Aire gasser are in the wet bay, directly behind the outside shower valves.

MountainAir 05 so you do not remove the ANODE rod?? Is the water heater ok with that? I was told, that withiout the anode rod, the innerds of the water heater will deteriorate and the ANODE stops that from happening;
UPDATE The anode rod and nut is now loose and I drained the water heater, will pressurize system and push whatever water is left in there AFTER I flush it out , to get the gunk out that is on the bottom. Then put in the bypass on for water heater and pressurize water system, get the air through all pipes including washer, and once that is done I put antifreeze through to all lines incl toilet shower and all faucets and washer. Also outside shower. Probably more than necessary but I feel safe doing that. I DID FIND the drains for the water tank one on left and one on right and drained them but still haVe not found LOW POINT DRAIN. IT IS NOT IN THE WATER CABINET. I WILL GET UNDERNEATH AND SEE IF I CAN FIND IT BUT SHOULDN'T IT BEI IN THE MIDDLE SOMEWHERE UNDERNEATH ? GOT A SCHEMATIC BUT IT MENTIONS THE LOW POINT DRAIN BUT DOES NOT GIVE A LOCATION, WEIRD.

RVER wrote:
1) i usually pull antifreeze through all the pipes and faucets, not just blow them out 2) what is a bib valve? WHY do you not take the anode rod out. it needs to be replaced so the innerds of the hot water heater do not electrolsyse the inside so change out the anode rod is my best advice. I will if i can get the bugger out, seems welded to the threads.

bib valve is just a regular outside valve that goes on the outside for a hose connector. It is check but as you stated it get very hard to remove, so a new one is installed. Getting the pink stuff flush out of the lines is a mess, and sometimes leaves a taste which requires extra step of a lot of water to clean them. Where I live water is at a premium in cost. I just run a bleach thru the filter housing and flush all the lines and then fill filter housing full of Vinegar to finish the flush. Leave pipes smelling fresh and clean. Been doing this since 1975 without any issues.

1) i usually pull antifreeze through all the pipes and faucets, not just blow them out 2) what is a bib valve? WHY do you not take the anode rod out. it needs to be replaced so the innerds of the hot water heater do not electrolsyse the inside so change out the anode rod is my best advice. I will if i can get the bugger out, seems welded to the threads.

Hook up the air compressor where your city water inlet is. Remove the inline air filter. Put the outer housing back on. Yes the air will travel to all faucets. when you put the pink stuff in at the pump you are only doing the pump not the hold system. Open only one faucets at a time till the water is gone. If you do not open any faucets after you are finish then they will hold air for a while. Take the Pink stuff and as stated put the clear inlet line that connect to your water pump, turn the valve to on that is in that line and suck a cup or so of pink stuff thru pump. Turn that valve back off when finish. Ensure that the pump switch is turn off till you ready to use water again in the system. Then put in a cup or two down each drain including the toilet to lube seal. If you use the rv in the winter you can just put water down the toilet as need.

I do not take the anode rod out, I just blew air thru the tank . I had a plug in my tank and install a bib valve in it place to drain it .

Mountain Aire 05 if I take the water filter off will t he air pass through to all faucets or will the antifreeze get through or spary all over water compartment where the filter cover is NOT screwed in. I was thinking I would screw it in so there is a connection so the air and antifreeze passes through or am I mistaken?
Nellinbee if the drill out the screw how to they get it un-"welded" from the the screw threads? Right now it is at mechanic for a check engine light so he is going to try to get it unscrewed. THANKS EVERYONE!