Pouring of rv pad

Hi,

Many areas have a code requirement to put 2" blocks of concrete down with steel wire to support the steel wire above grade or gravel that the concrete is poured on. This keeps the wire level, and near the bottom, and 2" above the starting grade.

So if you ever see some 2" cubes of concrete with steel wire sticking out of it, usually with 25 - 100 in a bag, then that is what is required by code in some states, and what should be used to support the steel under the concrete.

Fred.

Your base, if well compacted with a vibrating compactor, will go a long way to help eliminate cracking. We put 6" of concrete for the majority of our barn floor, but we went to 10" in two six foot strips where the wheels and jacks sit. They used 1/2" rebar in the 10' sections and reinforcing wire in the rest of the floor and we have NO cracking. The floor was laid in 42'x24' sections with the bus sitting on the 42' long section. None of the floor was sawed, as each section is divided by metal expansion strips. Our Bus goes 43,000lb when we're loaded for Alaska.

My concrete pad is 4" thick with the fiber and it's 13 years old this year. Looks just fine. Cracked along the expansion joints, but no place else. But realistically, if you're pouring the pad anyway how much more is an extra 2" thick going to cost? Labor costs and all should be the same. Just add 50% more to the price of the concrete needed.

we just repoured our driveway and rv pad do to the weight of our Essex at 50K#. We poured 6" 3000# with 3/8" rebar and 12" footers everywhere! Beautiful!

You mentioned 12" thick concrete in the back of your pad. Base is much cheaper than concrete. Use base to level the pad and pour 6" of concrete. This will out last you.

mike brez wrote:
I thought the fiber in the concrete helps with controlling cracks and adds nothing to its strength.

It does, but unless your base is compacted and solid, it really doesn't matter what additives you put in the concrete.

When we poured this we used rebar and it is about 10 to 12 inches thick. The concrete is coloured and there is a grey release on the stamped surface. It looks the same now as it did 11 years ago and is subject to everything from minus 20 to plus 40 celcius. It needs to be resealed once per year to protect the grey mottled effect.

I thought the fiber in the concrete helps with controlling cracks and adds nothing to its strength.

MountainAir05 wrote:
You have the right ideal. 6 inches would be the least amount depth. 4" will crack over time with a 6600 truck. Pay now or really pay later. A good base is the key. Remember to let cure for over 30+ days.

Any concrete larger than 12' X 12' will crack regardless of how thick. Without knowing your soil type we are just giving you BS. I'm on good red clay and my driveway is only 4" 3000 psi with fiber sawed every 12'. After five years there are no cracks other than where it was sawed and I did not put down any gravel. My MH bay is 4" except for the 24" where the tires run and there it's 6". There is no need to wait 30+ days because at one week you are at 75% of full strength, more than enough to drive on it.
If the concrete hoes that your contractor uses does not have the pin for raising the wire mess up into the concrete you are wasting your money on wire mesh so fiber is a better option.

I dont care if you have 4" or 6" depending where you are its going to crack. 12" floors crack thats why you put in control joints. Save some money and pour it 5" put wire down and get fiberglass re enforced concrete and cut it so it cracks where you want it to.

you dont need 12" of concrete...waaaayyy too much