Forum Discussion

mlts22's avatar
mlts22
Explorer
Apr 24, 2014

Preventing cabover rot in the first place?

A friend of mine is looking at a class "C" (getting a pretty good deal on it) that is one with a fiberglass front and rear cap... but the roof is rubber.

Next to driving to Florida to have Dave's Permanent Coatings work their magic with the elastomer spray, what would be the best way to ensure that the cabover doesn't fall prey to water intrusion? Go over anything that even looks like a seam with Eternabond?
  • Seams, windows and clearance lights seem to be the major culprits. A close inspection/test of any suspected areas should be addressed with eternabond or Dicor. A pressure test would also provide you with peace of mind and also point to any other leaks.
  • Good point. A Sealtech (technically Sealtech Manufacturing USA) test is a place to start. Since this MH is new, might as well take precautions now, since fixing cabover damage is a very expensive proposition.
  • Rubber roof is common in all types of RV's .. that wouldn't be a high concern in my book.
  • ksg5000 wrote:
    Rubber roof is common in all types of RV's .. that wouldn't be a high concern in my book.
    I agree. Regular inspection and maintenance should avoid any leaks.
  • Not to hijack this post but I have had a leak around the solar panel and especially the overcab vent above the bed since getting the MH. I have tried to use silicone that is meant for roofing applications and got it to the point where it's about 80% better but the water is still coming in. Would I just be better off replacing the vent altogether?
  • I had a leak around the cabover vent, too. I stopped it by just putting more Dicor self levelling caulking on it. I didn't remove the old stuff. When I do that, I will put Eternabond on. Also, the seam along the front. I noticed that the water pooled in an area beside the vent. It seems the crossmember holding the roof and vent up is bent or broken, likely because I didn't know how flimsy the roofs are and worked up there without running planks side to side. To deal with that depression temporarily, I opened a joint in the ceiling below so I could get my arm in. I pushed in a piece of wood long enough to run over top of the cross pieces from one to another. It sits there without fastenings and eliminates the depression. Something worked - no leaks for a year now. I intend to one day open that ceiling and fix it properly, probably with a metal cross member screwed onto the damaged one.

    Thanks for the reminder - I must Dicor the clearance lights again.
  • I have a 07 Lazy Daze and am in the process of using EternaBond tape on the seams. I have no evidence of water damage but the caulking on roof is showing its age. When I started looking a friend told me there are two kinds of RVs; those that are have leaks and those that are about to leak. I hope to keep mine in the second group.
    http://dac.smugmug.com/Cars/Individual-cars/Lazy-Daze-improvements-gadgets/Sealing-the-LD/http://dac.smugmug.com/Cars/Individual-cars/Lazy-Daze-improvements-gadgets/Sealing-the-LD/
  • I ordered my Fleetwood 'C' from my dealer. When it came in, we did a thorough walk thru. As I was walking around, they pointed out that they had removed the marker lights, calked and re-sealed as part of their normal pre-delivery prep. They explained that the factory uses air powered drivers and often over-tightens the screws, causing cracks. No leaks in 10 years. I've seen what happens to the wood supporting the cab over if they aren't re-sealed.