Exhaust manifold bolt ... advice needed!
I recently purchased a 1997 Ford Class A with a 460 engine. The exhaust manifold issues have been well documented and so I decided to put Banks headers and exhaust on it. All my manifold bolts seemed ...
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I am just amazed at all the great responses and how quickly you came through. Thanks a million!
Just to clarify, the first bolt came out fairly easy. Two others I tried but didn't get anywhere so I didn't force it and left them. I then did the rear bolt in the picture and it broke right off. With my upcoming trip and it not leaking I just felt like this was not the time to go on as I had the feeling other bolts would have broken.
I think I will just put the one bolt back in and have someone weld a nut on it and take my trip. After I get back I can then try to use that welded nut to back out the stud. If it won't go, I can always cut the nut off and work on the stud once the manifold is removed.
Here is another thought I had and would love to get input if this is a good idea or anyone ever used this approach. I am thinking, the bolts that feel like they will break, instead of breaking them, why not just grind off the top of the bolt and pull the manifold with stud still in. That way I am guaranteed to have enough stud to work with and don't risk breaking it flush with the head. With manifold off, I can then soak the threads, apply heat, use a vise grip or two nuts (or weld one on) 1/4" away from the head and back it out. The only question is, if I have enough clearance with the studs still in to pull the manifold? Any thoughts?
Just to clarify, the first bolt came out fairly easy. Two others I tried but didn't get anywhere so I didn't force it and left them. I then did the rear bolt in the picture and it broke right off. With my upcoming trip and it not leaking I just felt like this was not the time to go on as I had the feeling other bolts would have broken.
I think I will just put the one bolt back in and have someone weld a nut on it and take my trip. After I get back I can then try to use that welded nut to back out the stud. If it won't go, I can always cut the nut off and work on the stud once the manifold is removed.
Here is another thought I had and would love to get input if this is a good idea or anyone ever used this approach. I am thinking, the bolts that feel like they will break, instead of breaking them, why not just grind off the top of the bolt and pull the manifold with stud still in. That way I am guaranteed to have enough stud to work with and don't risk breaking it flush with the head. With manifold off, I can then soak the threads, apply heat, use a vise grip or two nuts (or weld one on) 1/4" away from the head and back it out. The only question is, if I have enough clearance with the studs still in to pull the manifold? Any thoughts?
