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chefdc1's avatar
chefdc1
Explorer
Apr 04, 2015

Re-seal cab-over

Okay, now that the snow has finally melted, I am ready to start work on the cabover. I covered all seams with duct tape before the 7 feet of snow came, and everything remained dry. I think I can repair the bed from the inside.
Now, here is my plan for re-sealing everything...hopefully someone with experience can tell me if I'm on the right track.
I am going to remove all of the trim from roof line down, as well as across the roof. I will then eternabond all seams, then butyl tape, then replace trim,screws and plastic strip that covers screws. I will then caulk around the trim, recaulk around all Windows and lights.
Should work, right?
This is on a 1997 Damon Hornet with an aluminum tube frame.
  • Sounds like a very ambitious plan. Good Luck. Obviously you had a cabover leak and hopefully you found it in time to prevent a lot of damage. My only suggestion is to take your time and only due a small section at a time. (across the roof, then down one side, etc.) If you have an idea of where the water is coming in, then start there.
  • Definitely planning on small sections...one step at a time. I'm hoping to get it done in a weekend though.
  • Many members have used Eternabond, and most report great results. However, something you might consider. RV shops are not big fans of the stuff.

    I have spoken to three local shops. With each conversation I have made it clear I was going to do the job myself, so I do not think they would have much motivation to lie to me.

    They all recommend dicor. I do not know which is correct, but I personally tend to go with the opinion, of folks who do that work for a living, rather than that of an individual owner. So for me at least I will stick to dicor.
  • winnietrey wrote:
    Many members have used Eternabond, and most report great results. However, something you might consider. RV shops are not big fans of the stuff.

    I have spoken to three local shops. With each conversation I have made it clear I was going to do the job myself, so I do not think they would have much motivation to lie to me.

    They all recommend dicor. I do not know which is correct, but I personally tend to go with the opinion, of folks who do that work for a living, rather than that of an individual owner. So for me at least I will stick to dicor.


    I've told my son, who has worked at an RV repair shop, for almost 20 years as an RV tech, about what I've read on here and other sites, about Eternabond. He told me they never use the stuff. They also use Dicor and other products appropriate for the job they're doing.
  • I really like the eternabond, both products work well. I used one tube of dicor and wasn't overly happy with the stringy mess of it. Others will chime in but I think your plan sounds great to me!
    Brian
  • I don't know how you can rebuild the bunk board in the cabover only from the inside ? You have to remove your front wall and out side skin from your side wall framing, since the bunk board is screwed into the bottom of the side wing walls. You want to find out the extent of the water damage before you go and seal everything up.
  • That sounds about right chefdc1. Although I agree that repairing the bunk floor usually means getting at the bottom of the rails.

    I wouldn't be surprised if most shops don't use Eternabond for insurance reasons. As-in, install non-OEM repairs and their warranties won't cover it. Plus, there isn't really an advantage to changing a low cost option you know works for a more expensive one that promises no return work.

    I liked using Eternabond and it looks good so far. There were a couple of small areas where I didn't get it pressed down hard enough and had to go back to really mush it down. Then it stayed put. The big thing is to use a METAL roller. Anything else doesn't create the mechanical bond you need for Eternabond to set. Once it sets, it is NOT coming off.

    Jose