Rear wheels off the pavement

Our's does the same thing. We can level without first dumping and get more travel out of the axles. We have had the airbag pop ddoing it too. Some coaches have greater range.
We carry a number of boards and the orange pads too. Frequently end up using them or some of them under the rear tires instead. It's an aggravating procedure to first level and then determine the number of board, back up and drive on to the center of them. The mfgs say not to raise them off the axles to level.
A great many sites look level until the coach says otherwise, though.
We have done it one or two times but I don't feel comfortable doing it.
The air bags do have enough vacuum power to keep rear axle or the front higher than jacks.

Simple escapes me sometimes. We could have just put boards under tires whil up and lowered and board under front jack.

There is a reason the Mfgr puts instructions in to not lift the rear wheels off the ground. IMO, I will keep the brake tires (rear) in contact with the ground.

Jim M. has it correct. a MH on sticks is not going to roll. Unless someone had found a way to change the laws of physics, it cannot happen. You have the same weight on the 4 sticks, as you had on the 6, or more tires. That's a lot of pressure on the 4 pads. The world will not come to an end if you raise the rear tires off the ground. Granted, if you are on unstable ground, it may slip, but more than likely, it will sink. Besides if the ground is that unstable, what are you doing with you MH on it? Your MH was built on a very level concrete surface, and making it level when you park it can prevent frame twist, windshield binding, not to mention the actual box that you live in. What about you slides? Does it make sense to have the MH leveled before extending them? I know the dealers extend them all the time without leveling the RVs, and I try to say away from them. I also know that Monaco says to extend the slides before leveling, but common sense would not agree with this. If you think your leveling jacks are not strong enough to support the weight of your MH, get under it and look at the way they are mounted, and physical size of them, then make your decision.

Rant over.
Merry Christmas to all.
Jim B.

Our previous MH was HR Imperial that had auto leverlers that always automatically dumped the air first, then put the jacks down. Our current has manual jacks and the directions tells us to always dump the air first.

Could be your driveway is sloped enough to get level has to raise the rear wheels that much. You never want your wheels in the air. As mentioned use blocks if the slope is that much. If your driveway is level then you need calibration.

KPruitt wrote:
Hi,

Everyone! New member and need some help. I just purchased a 2007 Holiday Rambler Neptune been doing some discovery learning parked in my driveway. My auto leveling system when engaged puts the jacks down the panel reads that the rig is level, not so it raises the rear wheels off the pavement. The Manuel tells you not to lift the tires off the ground. Is there an adjustment I can make to fix this?....

KPruitt,
Auto leveling for the most part, is what I consider, used for "mild" off level situations. In that, if you look at your position, and only some slight leveling is needed, then it's normally real good for that. But, if you get into situations where, you know that there's a possibility of front, back or side wheels potentially off the ground, then manual leveling, in my opinion, is the order of the day.

And, in those situations where "enhanced" leveling is encountered, I carry some planks/lumber etc. to drive up on, to primarily level the coach. That way, the jacks are then used to "fine tune" the finished level process and, I also use blocks under them so they're not extended very far which, keeps them from tweaking the mounts and the frame. Yep, it's a bit more tedious than just pulling up on a site and pushing a button but, I certainly don't mind.

I'm not in any hurry to do damage to my rig, tweak a windshield, bind interior doors, etc. And, when it comes time to pack up, again, I'm in no hurry so, driving off the lumber and packing it away is no big deal. But, it sure as heck comes in handy when in off-level situations. Even if you have to do it at home, it's still good because, one, you're at home, and two, you're keeping the wheels/tires on the ground. Good luck.
Scott

The calibration routine calibrates what the powergear system believes as level, as in if you level in auto or manual, the green light goes on, but it is not level, then you need to calibrate.

I have always found I can level in manual much lower than the automatic.

I always dump the air to below 50 psi by holding down the dump button and stroking the brake pedal, before even powering up the leveling system.

I do not believe a box on sticks can roll. If needed, i'd rather lift the front, but do not fear lifting the rears. This box on stix is not "rolling" anywhere.

Thanks everyone, I dumped the air and leveled the RV in the manual mode. When I get more time after the Holiday,s I will try the calibration method. Happy Holidays Be Safe

Dennis....that made me laugh!

KPruitt......You should really be dumping your air every time level unless it's just an overnight stop. It makes the coach more stable when the jacks aren't as extended and brings the steps closer to the ground, especially if the front of the coach is low and has to be lifted in the front to level.

past-MIdirector wrote:
If the slope is to much to level without raising the rear wheels we're go to another site. I have the levelers so I don't have to carry blocks.

He is trying to level the rig at his HOME...moving to another site would be a bit expensive....:W.....Dennis