Forum Discussion

MamaGoose's avatar
MamaGoose
Explorer
Aug 16, 2014

Refrigerator discussion & recommendations (Not residential)

Hello,

We're new to RV'ing with a motorhome. Just purchased a pre-owned 2003 Fleetwood Revolution. I happened to find out about the recall on the Norcold 1200LRIM 4 door refrigerator, and we had the high temperature sensor installed 2 days ago at a dealership under the official recall. Fast forward to today, we're home from our trip and planning to park the rig for a few weeks. The refrigerator was running on Auto/LP. I removed everything from the fridge and, using the on/off button on the refrigerator, I turned it off. I heard it shut off, I actually heard the LP go out. Then we proceeded on to other things, like unpacking, having supper, and so forth. My husband gave the rig a wash and parked it in the shed. Walking by, he saw the glow of the red light from the sensor. He mentioned it to me and I said that shouldn't be on, it meant the high temp sensor had shut off the fridge (which hadn't been on in the first place) and we would be unable to start the fridge again unless we were able to reset the sensor. I went inside, tried turning it on...nothing. So the sensor is obviously faulty and we'll try resetting it. (This does make me wonder how trustworthy the sensor is, however, since there was no high temperature and no reason for it to trigger, and this is an issue I'll be taking up with the dealership who installed it and/or the Norcold rep I've been exchanging e-mails with. Probably best to have as much in writing as possible.) We don't have time to drive the 8 hour round trip to have the dealership install a new sensor at this time, but this will likely have to be done. (Unless they can ship it to us and we can swap it out ourselves?)

All of this has made me wonder, in the event that we do find it necessary to replace the refrigerator, if there is another brand anyone could recommend. We do need one that runs on LP or AC, since we do plan to do a fair bit of traveling with the motorhome and we want to have the option of boondocking. I know many new motorhomes are manufactured with residential refrigerators, but ours is not set up that way and apparently the modifications to do that would be quite expensive.

The 2003 5th wheel we had previous to this motorhome also had a Norcold fridge, but it was smaller and was not a part of this recall. I had it set at 3 and it worked great. In fact, I had to be careful where I placed the fresh produce because 3 was almost too cold but 2 was not quite cold enough. With the motorhome, however, I'm finding it has to be set at 7, and if it's on LP I need to set it at 8 or even 9. The weather has been very hot and humid where we've been. Is that normal for these refrigerators (Norcold 4 door 1200 models)? I would have expected better. It does occur to me that this refrigerator is old and may be near the end of its life expectancy.

18 Replies

  • Washing the rig and getting water into the refer vents on the access door will indeed turn the high temp switch off. Resetting the switch or replacing it will solve the problem until the next time water is sprayed onto the switch and it begins all over again. Been there---done that
  • Ivylog's avatar
    Ivylog
    Explorer III
    Welcome to the forums and one of the most debated subjects, even though you put (Not residential). By using the advanced post option you could have made it (Not residential) but doubt even that would help.
    Unfortunately I have spent more time than most on my 1200 partly because I forgot to turn it off when parked in our fairly steep driveway the night before leaving on a trip. By vibrating the coils when it stopped working over the next three years I was able to keep it working BUT not as cold as you really need. Finally replaced the cooling unit with a Armish cooling unit which has helped a bunch.
    The Nocold recall/bandaid is a POS and you should have Revision D of it... yes there were A,B,C and D can be reset with a strong magnet because they turn off the reffer so often when there was not a over heat (800 degrees) in the burner area. The problem comes when it actually did it's job (not in your case) and someone resets it without monitoring the flue temps or smelling for ammonia behind the unit.
    I've added a smoke alarm and a auto fire system behind my unit (before putting in the Amish cooling unit) as I've seen too many rigs that burned because of a fire that started behind the reffer and most were 1200.
    This morning I'm going to install this MOD which is a much better way of protecting your reffer (and your rig) than the NoCool recall box. It is a thermal sensing unit that mounts on the boiler in the flue and shuts the unit off at 300 degrees and would have saved my unit from damage when I parked too far out of level. Yes I had a recall box on my unit at that time. This unit will restart on it's own once your unit cools down and the display lets you know it shut your unit down.
    OP, at this point I feel the ARP mod is what I would spend my money on to protect your 1200 as it's not a dumb bandaid like even the Rev D.
  • Oh and the modification to fit a residential on my coach was less then a new cooling unit.
  • Not that you want to do it but a residential in a motorhome works fine for traveling. The issue with any newer unit us that the EPA has mandated less sodium chromate in the cooling unit. This means they are more likely to fail sooner. This is what protects the walls of the cooling unit against corrosion. We never had a rash of issue with refers in my early days on this forum and now we do. Your choice but look at the reasons and the ease of use and the safety involved.
  • Old-Biscuit wrote:
    Hubby washed rig........got the box/wires wet.

    Reset box using a strong magnet.
    Place magnet over LED and move it make and forth.


    x2 - I've seen it more than once. Folks think my husband is a magician when he makes the red light go off with a magnet. Each time folks have just washed or had their rigs washed.
  • We were in CA at an RV park and neighbor had a recalled Norcold with that mod. His refer just ran hot all the time. My dometic never runs that hot. I was glad I didn't have the Norcold. He had trouble with his Norcold when he got it washed and had to replace the mod.
  • Hubby washed rig........got the box/wires wet.

    Reset box using a strong magnet.
    Place magnet over LED and move it make and forth.
  • MamaGoose,
    Assuming that your refer is "unfixable" and you do not want to explore the residential alternative, another choice that many make is to replace the back of your current Norcold with an Amish unit. The Amish units seem to be a lot better made than the Norcold backs. And, most importantly they do not seem to be the serious fire hazard that the Norcolds are turning out to be. You just don't hear about fires in conjunction with the Amish units.

    One critical factor in your choice, however, is how are your seals on your current box. If they are good (and show resistance when you put a dollar bill between the door and the box and it has friction when you pull on it) then the Amish unit is a cost effective way to go. If your seals are bad, however, be aware that the seals are not sold separately, and the "shells"/frames for the large doors cost around $424 each. So, this can be a real factor in "fixing" your current box.

    So, a lot depends on the condition of your current box. But, this may all be academic since you will probably get a fix to your problem that will keep you in good shape for the time being and give you more time to investigate alternatives.