residential refrigerator
In my 2007 Discovery we decided we would replace the Norcold 4000 series with a 18 CF Samsung. It is now in and it took less than 2 hours to obtain the desired temp. When running it pulls 16 amps of 1...
Forum Discussion
Ivylog wrote:
"I think you will find that it will not need 16 amps once it's cooled down."
If I'm reading the OP's post correctly, the OP is talking about 16 amps draw on the 12 volt side (input) of the inverter, not the 120 volt output side which is substantially less.
It's important to note that in a residential refrigerator, the compressor(s) are not the only electrical load(s). There is defrost mode, reduce exterior moisture mode (not popular anymore), door gasket heater mode, humidity control mode, icemakers, led's, interior air circulation, etc. which all use electricity. A lot of the functions are automatic and go on/off without notice depending on ambient conditions.
For reference, I just looked at my Samsung Model RF4287HABP 28 cu. ft. fridge. (in the house) It's a side by side with icemaker and freezer/meat drawer below. Max rated current, 5.3 amps @ 115 volts, 60 hz.
Chum lee
"I think you will find that it will not need 16 amps once it's cooled down."
If I'm reading the OP's post correctly, the OP is talking about 16 amps draw on the 12 volt side (input) of the inverter, not the 120 volt output side which is substantially less.
It's important to note that in a residential refrigerator, the compressor(s) are not the only electrical load(s). There is defrost mode, reduce exterior moisture mode (not popular anymore), door gasket heater mode, humidity control mode, icemakers, led's, interior air circulation, etc. which all use electricity. A lot of the functions are automatic and go on/off without notice depending on ambient conditions.
For reference, I just looked at my Samsung Model RF4287HABP 28 cu. ft. fridge. (in the house) It's a side by side with icemaker and freezer/meat drawer below. Max rated current, 5.3 amps @ 115 volts, 60 hz.
Chum lee
