Resolution to previous post 're fuses not working

ricelake922, I guess you tech is right but it seems pretty extreme and I can't believe there are 18 items causing parasitic draws on the batteries. Good luck on what ever you do.

Being part of a group of owners of coaches that generally have had multiple owners over the years, I can tell you that people do strange things when redoing a motor home. Mine was only lightly "molested". But some have things done that really stretch the imagination to come up with a "why?"

ricelake922 wrote:
Mr. Wizard....You are absolutely right. This is what happened even though many on this site are in disbelief. Technician who reviewed this issue said he has seen worse.

I seriously doubt someone would do this as you think I believe theres more to this story than you currently know
No one in their right mind would bypass the whole system described
Changing the power source makes sense but not changing all the feed wires

Mr. Wizard....You are absolutely right. This is what happened even though many on this site are in disbelief. Technician who reviewed this issue said he has seen worse.

I will agreed that cutting the fuse block feed, would have been the best route

Whoever did this did not want to open the harness and cut the feed wiring

So the they cut the wires at the accessories and ran new feeds

MrWizard wrote:
Do you have two kill switches
My only kill switch is for the house/RV batteries
Not the chassis/engine batteries

Rewiring means that stuff is never accidentally left on to run down any battery

If those are items that would normally be on the engine/ignition systems
The p.o. Probably had dead batteries one too many times
Rewired to the house system, so as to save the engine batteries

this would make sense IF the power supply to the fuse board itself was rerouted through the 12V house disconnect
but he is saying all 18 accessorys have been totally rewired and no longer connect through this fuse block which we both know makes no sense what so ever

Do you have two kill switches
My only kill switch is for the house/RV batteries
Not the chassis/engine batteries

Rewiring means that stuff is never accidentally left on to run down any battery

If those are items that would normally be on the engine/ignition systems
The p.o. Probably had dead batteries one too many times
Rewired to the house system, so as to save the engine batteries

Ricelake922, I think there is something missing from the equation, perhaps it is a relay or something else very simple. I can't examine the fuse block but if one side is working and the other is not makes me wonder.

I'm sure you're going to find the problem and I would suggest a little piece of test equipment that might make it much easier. With the maze of wires and how tightly they are bundled(in my rig at least)into a loom, following the wire is near impossible. And with all the various ways they are held together, like zip tys and abrasion guards to cut through it is tedious. These might help:

Wire Tracers

I like the Sperry Model ET 64220 by Gardner-Bender. They range from about $50 to $60 including S&H. There may be some crosstalk if your wire looms are as tight as mine but the signal is clear at the end of the wire. They are really easy to use getting to the terminus of the wire is the hard part.

On most fuse blocks there is a common buss bar to all the fuses. Did you look for that? If you have power to one side and not to the other I would look into that first. You could have two separate inputs to the block. Lots of fun questions.

^^^ Agreed.

ricelake922 wrote:
A couple of weeks ago I posted that my 1996 Monaco Dynasty RV had fuses that were showing no power to fuses but the accessories were working such as dash fans and side step. I took the RV to a company who I have used before and are excellent with electrical issues. The outcome is there is no power going to the fuses and before my time of owning the RV is the power to these fuses has been rerouted and the only way to find out where and to what power source is to follow the wire attached to the dash fans for instance to find their power source. Interestingly the accessories attached to these "phantom power" only works when the kill switch located at the door of the RV must be on for these accessories to work. Any thoughts on this issue is very much appreciated. When I go to Florida this winter I will spend some time to find the power source by following the lines associated with the accessories. Yes...I fully expected the wires are attached to the kill switch and powered by the chassis battery but I would like to find out if this is the case.

It strikes me funny that someone would bypass

The cluster of fuses on the right side (18 accesories in total) do not register with the test light at all.

to me if I take the situation as explained is really hard to visualize as it makes zero sense and the amount of rewire would be extreme