rust / Workhorse

Sully2 wrote:

sjholt wrote:
If you coach sits on regular ground and not on concrete or asphalt, the moisture comes up from the ground and gets on the chassis and this could be your rusting problem.
You might put a plastic tarp under the chassis to stop some of this.
I had a Vette that I wrecked and put into storage back east and didn't put any plastic under it and it has a very rusted chassis within 5 years when I came to pick it up. Sold it for junk.
HTH

I dont believe that for one second. Untreated metal left out will rust no matter what....dont have to be near saltwater or any such BS.

It's the rate and extent it rusts at. That statement of yours confirms to me that you haven't ever parked your coach near salt water. You shouldn't offer advice unless you have first hand knowledge. You can cause more damage than good to someone else's coach.

With POR, you really don't have to blast, a hand-held wire brush works fine. You don't have to eliminate all of the rust, as it get's converted/stabilized. You just have to knock the loose surface flakes off.
Extend your levelers and put jack stands under the axles.

Jim

This is Michbill.
Thank you ALL for the information. I had heard of PRO15 but did not know if it works. For those that have gotten under the coach and sand blasted or wire wheeled the rust then sprayed it, did you put the coach up on a lift or raise it some how to have easier access?
Thanks again
Bill

Lobstah wrote:
The thing that's nice about POR-15 is that it forms a permanent, rock hard finish, and stops/converts the rust on the metal. Need to scrape off the loose bits, but after that, you use their metal cleaner/prep, and apply the POR with a foam brush. Dries fairly quickly, and you can hit it with a hammer afterwards.
A lot of us guys with old classic/muscle cars use it during restorations.

Jim

And its good stuff too.

Used a sand blaster to clean the frame and a pump sprayer to apply the treatment....worked perfect.

sjholt wrote:
If you coach sits on regular ground and not on concrete or asphalt, the moisture comes up from the ground and gets on the chassis and this could be your rusting problem.
You might put a plastic tarp under the chassis to stop some of this.
I had a Vette that I wrecked and put into storage back east and didn't put any plastic under it and it has a very rusted chassis within 5 years when I came to pick it up. Sold it for junk.
HTH

I dont believe that for one second. Untreated metal left out will rust no matter what....dont have to be near saltwater or any such BS.

The thing that's nice about POR-15 is that it forms a permanent, rock hard finish, and stops/converts the rust on the metal. Need to scrape off the loose bits, but after that, you use their metal cleaner/prep, and apply the POR with a foam brush. Dries fairly quickly, and you can hit it with a hammer afterwards.
A lot of us guys with old classic/muscle cars use it during restorations.

Jim

A product called Rust Check is what I have used on my cars/trucks here in Canada.
It's an oily like liquid than penetrates into every part of the chassis/body parts. The city of Winnipeg buys it by the drum to spray on their salt trucks.
See info here: http://www.rustcheck.com/

AND...most of the reason for the so-called "scientific studies" is a play for more funding, or some other politically motivated meme.

Read "Good science - Bad science". Most of today's "science" isn't.

My 2005 Pace came from Arizona. Probably not much salt there, on the roads at least. I have rust on my W22 chassis. Most rust on chassis or other metal components are from poor surface prep, i.e. cutting corners to save cost. And it's not just Workhorse, it's all of the manufacturers.

Grind it down with a wire brush, and then hit it with some POR-15.
Bang...
Done.

Jim

wny_pat wrote:

Argosy24 wrote:

rgatijnet1 wrote:
You live and drive in the North where salt is used on a regular basis during the Winter. The salt does not disappear at the end of the Winter. It just blends in to the surrounding soil and is present when the Summer rains come and allows it to be deposited on the undersides of any vehicles.

If there was that much salt nothing would grow along the roads, and they would only have to salt once at the beginning of winter. And it sure doesn't migrate from the road side back to the road surface.

You think:h!!! Take a look here: 2012-2013 D.O.T Salt Price Comparison and 5 Year Average Use. Michigan 5 year avg. use = 550,000 tons. Deer love the stuff. Ever wonder why you see so many dead deer along side of the road in the northern states?

But then we have: Rock Salt in a Hard Place

Because deer don't understand something going 40, 50, 60+ MPH and they don't have a clue how fast you're closing on them? Same as dogs, cats, coons, and birds and they're not licking dirt thinking it's salt.

And if there was so much salt it was leeching back onto the roads (uphill, roads do have a crown) from the ground it still doesn't explain how anything grows along the roads. Not much that isn't native to a high salt area will tolerate it.

My 2007 38' Safari, with a Workhorse chassis, was originally purchased by a gentleman in Michigan (salty roads). I purchased it 2 years later. I live 3 miles from the Gulf of Mexico (salty air). It is parked on regular ground (moisture). I have never treated it. I examined it 2 weeks ago when new tires were being installed. Had the mechanic take a look also. No rust was found. Not sure what that tells you other than different coaches have different experiences.