Slide-outs---tell me about them!

We had a slide on our Class A. It was a 2006, and it went in and out with cables. The cables broke 3 times, even after putting in larger cables. I like the slide, but stay away from cables to move the slide.

We had slides on two fivers, but not on the two small Class C's that came next.
The slides are nice, for sure. We did not have slide topper awnings. So the biggest pita was leaves, pine needles, acorns, and and sticks coming to rest on the top of the slides. You don't want to pull the slides in with that stuff up there. If you're lucky, it comes inside with the slide. Less lucky is that it ends up smashed against the seal. This was a constant irritation for me.

The extra room is great, but we have been able to use many tight campsites with our no-slide MHs, where the slide would have presented an issue.

There have been a lot of problems with the newest slide mechanism, Schwintek. I have not owned one, so I have no idea if they've figured it out or what. I would be hesitant to get one of those, but if I did the research and the problems are fixed, then okay.

Overall, we enjoy our no slide lifestyle. But were we in the market for more space, I would not hesitate to own something with slides. With awning toppers!

I have 2 slides, never had a seal leak, but did have a drive gear go on one of them, it was repaired under the extended warranty, thankfully). Even with that one problem, I wouldn't be without slides, in fact, I wish I had 3 rather than 2.
I believe that the percentage of owners who have or had problems with them are far fewer than those who have had no problems, as someone already mentioned, you only hear on here about the ones that have had a problem, no one ever starts a thread, "Hey, my Slides work great, never have a problem".

Gene in NE wrote:
coolmom42 - I have not yet seen this suggestion. What type of RV motorhome owner would you be?

If you might be like us, we get into the motorhome and use it for transportation to visit family or see the country. The motorhome is merely a mobile bedroom with amenities.

If you are more like the other type that drives for 1 or 2 days and then parks the motorhome for several days to camp. You might want the extra space afforded by a slide.

Guess I'm kind of a mix. I like to travel and then tour in an area. But I'm there to do something, not just to sit and camp. Although a day of that is pretty nice sometimes!

Thanks for all the great info, Ron.

I may be traveling with grandchildren, and the over-cab bed strikes me as a good place for them, LOL. I know they may need a fan up there for ventilation.

I agree with you, makes no sense that the Chevy chassis isn't more popular. But there are some out there.

I don't expect to be towing.

I'm more of a traveler than a camper, although I tend to go to one area and travel around there, using some central location as a base. So on that basis, the slide/no slide decision could go either way.

coolmom42 wrote:
I would consider a slide out if 1) the RV was otherwise perfect in every way :D and 2) it appears that grandchildren might be travelling with me a significant amount.

Ron, point taken about the cabover bed. The main thing I don't want in a used RV is the front window in the cabover. I can see the space being useful.

Here is something I put together and post it once in a while when it fits into such a discussion. It is a long read. I hope you get something from it.

Ron
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New, used, or well used, when shopping for any conventional class-C, the most important consideration is how it is constructed. This post outlines construction methods which are most affordable and methods that cost more, but are built to hold up much better to the elements and the punishment of road motion.

Some motor home manufactures offer different levels of quality through their various model lines. Instead of providing a list of brands to consider, it is best to identify what "Better" is.

When shopping for a motor home, don't get distracted with what I call "Eye Candy" or "Square Footage". You want to pay close attention to how the house is constructed. Water infiltration is the number one killer of motor homes, rotting them away long before anything is worn out. Once water gets inside, it is like termites. By the time you realize there is a problem, a lot of damage has already occurred. Also consider that mold & mildew can grow inside the walls which then you have a health hazard. My advise focuses on identifying a reliably well sealed motor home.

#1 BEST (Very Expensive, Can Be 1.75 to 2 times the cost of Second Best)
NO structural seam work. The brand Coach House is a fine example. It is seamless, made from a mold. The only places where water can leak is cutouts for windows, entry door, roof-top vents & a/c unit, storage compartments & maintenance access, all of which are in areas of very low stress. Because they have a seamless shell, these motor homes have a limited selection of sizes.

#2 SECOND BEST
Common, Affordable, & comes in Many Sizes so this is my main focus
I own an example of this type. My Rig Here manufactured by Phoenix USA.
Made in sections, but assembled in a way that greatly reduces the threat of water. Here are the good things you want to look for.

a) Structural Seams Away From Corners
When a motor home is driven, the house bounces, resonates, shakes, and leans, many thousands of times, representing a series of extended continuous earthquakes. Corner seams see greater stresses than seams located elsewhere. Corner seams are more easily split, especially when the caulk gets brittle with age & exposure to the sun. One extremely bad bump in the road can instantly breach a corner seam. Seams hold up much better when they are brought in from the corners in lower stressed areas.

b) A Seamless Over-The-Van Front Cap
A huge bed above the van’s roof is the most vulnerable area of a motor home. No matter how well they are made, that long frontal over-hang resonates when the RV is driven. It is common for seams to split there, most troublesome with age & exposure to the elements. HERE is a more recent example, one of many I have read. The small front aerodynamic cap of a B+ design eliminates the overhang which eliminates most of the resonation, along with most seam work.

There are a few conventional “C” Designs (big over-van bed) where that area is seamless. If you absolutely must have that huge bed, then look for a seamless bucket-like design. Born Free offers a seamless bucket design as seen in This Model. Winnebago's View Here is another fine example. Some manufactures as of late offer a partial bucket design with fewer seams located in less-stressed areas. Some manufacture models like the Minnie Winnie applies a compromising partial bucket design, making it a better choice compared to a fully seamed cab-over bed.

If you plan to accommodate more than 2 people, having that large extra cab-over bed will be extremely useful.

c) A Crowned Roof
Rain and snow melt runs off a crowned roof. A flat roof will sag over time, then water puddles around heavy roof-top items like the a/c unit. Water eventually finds it's way inside after gaskets & caulk have degraded from age, sun, and change in seasons.

d) Rolled-Over-The-Edge seamless Fiberglass Roof Sheathing
A single sheet of fiberglass that rolls over the right & left sides of the roof, down the wall a few inches. The fiberglass sheathing holds up better than roofs made of sheet rubber or thin plastic called TPO, which require more attention to keep your RV well protected.

e) A Five Sided Rear Wall Cap
A five sided back wall moves the seams around to the sides to areas of much less stress. Some rear wall sections are constructed with an integrated spare tire compartment and rear storage compartment. Not only are they convenience features, but it offers a solid double-wall for exceptional strength which is more resistant to flexing adjoining seam work.

Potentially Troublesome Construction
Entry level motor homes are made with seams in corners and finished off with trim, including the massive cab-over bed. Their roof is flat and finished with rubber or TPO. They are most affordable, and come in all sizes. HERE is one such example. If considering this construction type, keep in-mind they require more regular care with bi-annual inspections. Plan to use a caulking gun now and then. When buying a used one, consider that you really don't know how well the previous owner maintained it. Buying new or used, that construction method will be counting on you to be a good non-neglectful owner.

There are also rare exception like the Lazy Daze which has seam work in the corners, but the substructure and sealing method is of the highest quality that it holds up like a seamless body. It's excellent sectional construction methods are not commonly found in other brands. I am no expert on this, but I'd give it a #1.5 Almost Like Best

About The Chassis
The most popular is the Ford E-Series with the V10 engine. The Sprinter diesel is a popular alternative to the E350 in the smaller sizes. The GM chassis is not popular, but is a very good choice for the right application. Any of those three brands since 1998 are real good, new or used. If you plan to tow a car or heavy trailer, be aware that the Sprinter is the least powered chassis. People who tow with a Sprinter, take it slower.

If considering a recent “small” class B+/C motor home, here is a comparison between the two main contenders, the Sprinter with the V6 diesel engine and the Ford E350 with the V10 gasoline engine.

Advantages Of The Sprinter With Diesel Engine
- Offers a 35% improvement in fuel economy over the Ford-V10, when both are loaded and driven identically.
- More ergonomic driver compartment with more leg room.
- Comfort continues with a car-like feel & quiet ride.
- A grander view out the windshield
- Made by Mercedes which people are attracted to.

Advantages Of The Ford E350 with V10 Engine
- Given identical motor homes both brand and model, the Ford is around $13,000 MSRP cheaper
- The Ford V10 engine has 50% more horse power and torque
- The Ford E350 chassis handles 1430 pounds more weight.
- The E350 is able to tow a heavier load.
- The E350 rear axle is significantly wider which translates to better stability.
- In most places traveled, gasoline costs less than diesel fuel
- The Sprinter diesel has limited mechanical service shops around North America
- The Sprinter diesel is typically outfitted with a propane generator. Propane is a critical fuel for RV operations, and generally needs to be rationed when dry camping.
- This Next Point Is Debatable But Still Worth Noting....The V6 Sprinter diesel engine is not allowed to idle for extended periods. This limitation is detrimental when you need a/c but there are generator restrictions or you are dangerously low on propane, or you have a mechanical failure with the generator or roof a/c. The Ford V10 can safely idle for hours on end, heating, cooling, and battery charging, all valuable if you have a baby, pets, or health/respiratory issues.

You decide what your priorities are, and pick the appropriate chassis. There are some really sweet motor homes being built exclusively on the Sprinter chassis, such as the Winnebago Via, View and View Profile. Others like Phoenix USA build their model 2350 and 2400 on both the Sprinter and Ford E350. They will even build it on the heaviest duty E450 upon request for a nominal fee. People who request an E450 for a small motor home, tow heavier things like for example, a multi-horse trailer. You can even special order a E350 & E450 4x4.

There is so much cool stuff offered in recent years, and even more anticipated with the upcoming Ford T-Series chassis. The general public hopes it will become available for the RV industry. It is kind-of like a Sprinter in size and fuel economy, but hopeful to be much more affordable and easier to get serviced.

The Chevy 3500/4500 Chassis
I do not understand why this chassis is not more popular. It offers more interior comfort than the Ford, but not as much as the Sprinter. It's power & weight ratings are a little less than their Ford counter-parts making them a great chassis for all but the heaviest of class Cs. They are also a little better on fuel consumption. One thing to keep in-mind, if you are counting inches to store your rig, the Chevy adds an additional 6" to the front bumper compared to the Ford. I learned that researching rigs that could fit in my 25'-0" deep garage. By default, the Ford gave me 6" more to work with. If you examine my motor home in my garage HERE, you will see our Ford E350 is quite tight already. That could be some of the reason why the Chevy offers a little more interior driver/passenger space.

Engine Power Ratings of Ford, Sprinter, & Chevy
Ford - 6.8L-V10, 305hp, 420ft
Sprinter Diesel - 3.0L-V6, 188hp, 325ft
Chevy - 6.0L-V8, 323hp, 373ft

coolmom42 - I have not yet seen this suggestion. What type of RV motorhome owner would you be?

If you might be like us, we get into the motorhome and use it for transportation to visit family or see the country. The motorhome is merely a mobile bedroom with amenities.

If you are more like the other type that drives for 1 or 2 days and then parks the motorhome for several days to camp. You might want the extra space afforded by a slide.

Our 2010 Blue Ridge 5V has 2 hydraulic-operated slides. We love the extra room. However, for mechanical reasons, I like the older style slides that have electric an motor driving a rack & pinion.

I feel that most DIY people would be able to fix the older style slides easier than the hydraulic versions.

We do like that the hydraulic slides operate much faster than the electric motor slides, (however, this can get you in trouble fast, DO A COMPLETE WALK-AROUND BEFORE MOVING SLIDES)!

We are on our 2nd 5Ver, no problem with slides in either trailer, (must admit, I am skittish about the future). High-pressure hydraulics have higher potential of leaking fluid as time progresses and/or components fail.

One thing DW & I do, we always pull them in when the camping trip is over. Most CLOSED slides (if not all), have a double gasket to protect against leakage.

coolmom42 wrote:
\Ron, point taken about the cabover bed. The main thing I don't want in a used RV is the front window in the cabover. I can see the space being useful.

That was the main thing I wanted - cabover with windows. I love my windows. I love my cabover bed. There are no signs of mine ever having leaked. I just resealed the windows last week as a preventative maintenance effort. I wouldn't want it any other way. :B

I would consider a slide out if 1) the RV was otherwise perfect in every way :D and 2) it appears that grandchildren might be travelling with me a significant amount.

Ron, point taken about the cabover bed. The main thing I don't want in a used RV is the front window in the cabover. I can see the space being useful.