Smelly water/furnace problems

Have you cleaned your water heater? You have to drain it and flush it out. It can cause stinky water.

As for the thermostat problem, could be a lot of things. Just because the heater didn't come on doesn't mean it was the thermostat. Start by checking all your breakers and fuses. If that doesn't fix it then it's over my head.

Thank you.

Water heater cleaned and flushed when I did the de-winterizing when I did the sanitizing.

Furnace works great from the front thermostat but wont work on the back thermostat. When I started both the furnace started with the front thermostat, I let it run for a few minutes then adjusted the back thermostat for the bedroom but it did not kick on for air flow to the rear of the coach.

(After thought) It may be a fan that pushes the air to the registers?

Where would the fans be?

1. Water Heater ANODE rod is done and needs to be replaced. Easy fix, check your local Home Depot for the replacement. That's what causes the smell.
2. Dump a bottle of Hydrogen Peroxide into your water heater. It will kill the smell and is environmentally and health safe. Leave it for a day, then flush.
3. Check the battery voltage. Low batteries cause t-stats to go haywire.

Good luck, keep us posted....Dennis

Would the anode rod also cause the water not to get 140 degrees? This water heater has an electric and gas system, both were on and the water temp seemed almost cold. The gas fired for 2-3 minutes the cycled off the light was on for the electric but that could be shot and I don't know that. I have a multimeter I just don't know how to use it, but I am learning.

Batteries are fully charged.

Will try the proxide. Thanks.

GGeorge wrote:
Thank you.

Water heater cleaned and flushed when I did the de-winterizing when I did the sanitizing.

Furnace works great from the front thermostat but wont work on the back thermostat. When I started both the furnace started with the front thermostat, I let it run for a few minutes then adjusted the back thermostat for the bedroom but it did not kick on for air flow to the rear of the coach.

(After thought) It may be a fan that pushes the air to the registers?

Where would the fans be?

You have me confused on your furnaces. I don't think you can control one furnace from two thermostats, so since you are saying you have two thermostats I'm assuming you have two furnaces. My 35 foot Class A has two furnaces, but in mine both are controlled from the same thermostat which is in the middle of the unit, but the thermostat has two different temp sensors, one in the bedroom and one in the living area. I also have to switch between units on the thermostat to control each heater. So if I'm correct, this means your front heater is working fine and your back heater is out. Could be the thermostat or could be the heater. Still start by checking the breakers.

GGeorge wrote:
Would the anode rod also cause the water not to get 140 degrees? This water heater has an electric and gas system, both were on and the water temp seemed almost cold. The gas fired for 2-3 minutes the cycled off the light was on for the electric but that could be shot and I don't know that. I have a multimeter I just don't know how to use it, but I am learning.

Batteries are fully charged.

Will try the proxide. Thanks.

Make sure you have the water heater bypass valve in the correct position. Also do you have a full propane tank? You're having problems with two different propane appliances so maybe the tank is getting low on fuel or the lines got dirty? Just thinking out loud as I'm no expert on propane. Do the burners on your stove light up and burn good?

Smelly (sulfur, like well water smell) in my case was caused by a bacteria in the HW heater. I tried flushing many times but the smell was still there. Finally eliminated it with a cup of Clorox in the HW heater tank, cooked it then let it sit for a few hours. Hydrogen Peroxide should kill the same bacteria.

Not sure why yours is not heating up . . . .

We have 2 thermostats (2 roof AC units) with one of the two controlling the furnace, which runs to the entire coach. Granted, our coach is not even middle end . . . .

Best,
- bob

2014 - 37 foot Coachmen Encounter w/4398 miles (3600 miles to/from dealership for repairs) - 2 roof a/c's 2 thermostats, I know of 1 heater. Vehicle now out of 1 year warranty.

When I turn the front thermostat which controls roof a/c from kitchen/dinette to drivers seat on the a/c unit works and so does the heat.

When I turn the back thermostat on which controls the roof a/c from the 1/2 bath, bedroom, and full bath to the back of the coach it will cool, but when I switch to the heater it will not heat.

Each thermostat has a plus/minus button, and a cool/heat button, each have a digital number tempetature which shows in the small box. push the cool button to minus the temp goes down and the a/c works, push the heat button and push plus the temp goes up.

I did not know I could have 2 heaters.

Hot water tank being sanitized again as I type w/clorex.

According to the Coachmen website, the 37 foot Encounter can come with either one 37,000 BTU heater, or two 20,000 BTU heaters. So first you have to see which one you have. You should be able to tell by looking at the outside of your coach. The furnaces should have a metal door covering them with a round exhaust port in the door. If you find two of those you have two heaters. If you find one, then you have to figure out if there are two heaters in the same compartment or not. My two heaters are on opposite ends of the coach so I have one in the front and one in the back.

Did you figure out how many heaters you had?