Sound deadening
Hello all.. New to class C. Used to pull 30 ft trailer with diesel VW. I am having a hard time getting used to the noise level of the 2016 Forrest River Sunseeker MBS 2400R. It is built rather well...
Forum Discussion
Here's my thoughts. I'm not optimistic that you have many options here.
The Conti Vanco tires are very quiet running. But... the noise level depends on the road surface. Smooth asphalt very quiet. Tar and chip or textured surfaces ... noisy. Swap them if you wish, but it is probably not going make a difference...except to your checking account. It is very important to use the tire pressures to the placard on the driver's door. No higher.
Adding Sumo Solos will not decrease noise. They will nearly eliminate side to side rocking without reducing the suspension's compliance. They also reduce push from winds and trucks. Because the rear Sumos fit between the axle and the frame (replacing the OEM bump stops), they may under rare conditions transmit vibration (road noise) to the chassis. RX front and rear Sumo Solos.
RVs are what they are....a big barn on wheels. They have the aerodynamics of bread box. That is problematic when it comes to fuel consumption and wind noise. If you have ever been in a house, building or barn in high winds and have heard it pushing against it you can appreciate the concept. The building shakes, vibrates, creaks and groans. The wind shrieks, groans, moans, roars and hums around this very bluff shape. Your RV reacts the same way.
IMHO, any RV with a bunk over cab is going to be really noisy compared to one with a smoother profile. That "snout" creates a massive turbulence around and under it. Combined with the airflow up the hood and windshield you have a double whammy. All that air has to go somewhere and that is screaming and roaring around the top 1/3 of the cab doors. And, on your model (like 90% of others) the coach projects at right angles to cab ... right behind the doors. Another bluff surface and air dam creating more resistance and ... noise.
Ther's not much, if anything, you can do about that with mods, sound deadening or other MacGuyvers to fix it.
What you may do is to be aware of the cause and keep your speed down to 60 - 65 mph to reduce the forces. Also, appreciate that forcing your way into a headwind adds to the effective wind velocity (65 mph + 15 mph headwind = 80 mph). Yes...it will be noisy and you pay more at the pump!
In and of themselves, Sprinter cab chassis are one of the quietest, most comfortable and best HVACs of any thing out there. There is little, if anything, you can do to "better" the sound control engineering provided by the Boyz von Stuttgart.
The Conti Vanco tires are very quiet running. But... the noise level depends on the road surface. Smooth asphalt very quiet. Tar and chip or textured surfaces ... noisy. Swap them if you wish, but it is probably not going make a difference...except to your checking account. It is very important to use the tire pressures to the placard on the driver's door. No higher.
Adding Sumo Solos will not decrease noise. They will nearly eliminate side to side rocking without reducing the suspension's compliance. They also reduce push from winds and trucks. Because the rear Sumos fit between the axle and the frame (replacing the OEM bump stops), they may under rare conditions transmit vibration (road noise) to the chassis. RX front and rear Sumo Solos.
RVs are what they are....a big barn on wheels. They have the aerodynamics of bread box. That is problematic when it comes to fuel consumption and wind noise. If you have ever been in a house, building or barn in high winds and have heard it pushing against it you can appreciate the concept. The building shakes, vibrates, creaks and groans. The wind shrieks, groans, moans, roars and hums around this very bluff shape. Your RV reacts the same way.
IMHO, any RV with a bunk over cab is going to be really noisy compared to one with a smoother profile. That "snout" creates a massive turbulence around and under it. Combined with the airflow up the hood and windshield you have a double whammy. All that air has to go somewhere and that is screaming and roaring around the top 1/3 of the cab doors. And, on your model (like 90% of others) the coach projects at right angles to cab ... right behind the doors. Another bluff surface and air dam creating more resistance and ... noise.
Ther's not much, if anything, you can do about that with mods, sound deadening or other MacGuyvers to fix it.
What you may do is to be aware of the cause and keep your speed down to 60 - 65 mph to reduce the forces. Also, appreciate that forcing your way into a headwind adds to the effective wind velocity (65 mph + 15 mph headwind = 80 mph). Yes...it will be noisy and you pay more at the pump!
In and of themselves, Sprinter cab chassis are one of the quietest, most comfortable and best HVACs of any thing out there. There is little, if anything, you can do to "better" the sound control engineering provided by the Boyz von Stuttgart.
