Sta-bil OR Seafoam??

Everyone has their own idea what is best to use. I use seafoam and for me it is the best. I think the best bet for you would be to research for yourself and decide what is best for your situation.

alkillion wrote:
Did I see you mention your rig was a diesel? If that is the case, you may need to look into other additives.

What he said.

Your title fooled a lot of us.

Howes MSDS:

http://www.howeslube.com/MSDS_Sheets/US/Meaner_Power_Kleaner_US-MSDS_09-2011.pdf

I find it interesting to read the MSDS of these things. It appears that they all are made up of the same things!

Try Howes

Diesel from the pump will probably not be dry enough to inhibit growth, it always has a little water in it.. especially if it's a bio blend.

Algae will only grow in diesel fuel at the water/fuel interface. If you have no water in the tank, algae can not grow.
"Microbes" do not grow in diesel fuel.
as previously mentioned, diesel fuel does not "rot" like gasoline does. No additive is needed for a tank of clean, dry diesel fuel.

alkillion wrote:
Did I see you mention your rig was a diesel? If that is the case, you may need to look into other additives. There are many on the market, personally I use Biobor products for diesel. I do use Stabil for my cars (gas).

In a diesel fueled vehicle Biobor is the only additive needed. Diesel fuel does not deteriorate like gasoline when in storage. It does develop microbe growth which can clog fuel filters, pumps, and injectors. Neither Stabil nor Seafoam effectively combat this microbe growth.

As mentioned above run the generator monthly but the motorhome engine should not be started unless it and the transmission can be brought up to full operating temperature.

Unless you actually drive the motorhome for at least 20 miles, it is probably best to not start it. The engine oil won't get up to full operating temperature (even thought the coolant temp gauge says it is) during 30 minutes of idling with no load. The purpose of running an engine is to get the oil up to at least 200 degrees F., so water and other contaminants will boil off. The (air cooled) generator, at approximately 50% load (1500 to 2000 amps for a 4KW generator) will do that in a half hour run, no problem. This also removes any moisture from the windings. An hour run would be better.

alkillion wrote:
Did I see you mention your rig was a diesel? If that is the case, you may need to look into other additives. There are many on the market, personally I use Biobor products for diesel. I do use Stabil for my cars (gas).

Just realized that, based on the original question I assumed gas.

I use Amsoil Diesel Concentrate every tank, it's a cleaner, lubricity additive, and stabilizer.

A Diesel engine will not get warm enough idling for 30 minutes to do any good, and probably decrease oil life. Using the exhaust brake to warm it up, if equipped, would heat up the coolant but probably not the oil and it does increase soot loading. It's best to just let it sit for 3-4 months.



Sea-Foam is a HUGE no-no in diesel fuel, don't ever use it.

You've got the right idea about running the generator under load....that's a good thing. However, running your ISL for 30 min is NOT good. Idling a diesel engine never gets it up to operating temps which causes more harm than good. If you really want to run it, take it out for a spin for that amount of time. Otherwise...just let it hibernate over the winter.

As for the fuel additives....I never put anything in my fuel. When I set the mh up for the winter, I fill the tank as full as I can get it. Of course, I live in a very dry climate so I never have to worry about algae. I do run my generator for about an hour every other month or so (under the load of two AC units) and that does reduce the amount of diesel in my tank somewhat. I always keep a 5 gal container of diesel fuel and use it to top off the tank after I run the generator.

Ron