Stalling cummins 8.3

Some early advice to you indicated the Winn system has proven to be problematic for some folks. It appears the Winn has been involved in your situation as well. It is never advised to "double" the gaskets on a fuel filter to try to stop leaks.

If I were you, I would get a new fuel filter head with screw-on filters to replace the Winn system.

A fuel pressure gauge can be very useful in diagnosing a fuel supply problem. It can indicate clogged fuel filters, a failing fuel pump, or whatever by showing a problem with fuel delivery pressure. But it won't fix your Winn system if it is causing air leaks in your fuel supply.

I am also considering installing a Quick Gauge fuel pressure gauge from Larry B's on eBay to find out for sure what the fuel pressure actually is.

And, since performance seems to deteriorate after longer drives, I think maybe the fuel cut off solenoid may get weak after it heats up. For $90 its probably worth it.

Any thoughts?

After researching more diesel forums, I'm thinking that the new Overflow Valve my be my problem. That would explain my Winn purge pump straining to a stop intermittently fooling me into thinking my return line was blocked. I think I'll get another one for $25 and see what happens. Any other ideas greatly appreciated!

Well... a big piece of humble pie for me! It wasn't the return line after all. I was using the Winn purge pump to test and it tricked me by straining against the back pressure of what I thought was a blockage.
It would start straining as it built up pressure in the injector pump against the new regulator. Thought that was because of the leaking o-rings? Maybe the purge pump itself is leaking? I am thinking about bypassing the Winn system altogether to single it out as a cause and just running on the filter on the engine. Anyone see a flaw in that? And how would I purge the air out of that long fuel line if I do?

To update, After Installing the new return fuel line, with new filters, i took it out for a test drive. It ran great, fueling and spooling up the turbo like normal. Filled up the tank and drove from Capital Reef NP towards Mesa Verde NP through Hite. Things were running fine until after going down the grade to Hite. I noticed a big loss in power especially on the low end again. I could get some boost if I geared it to over 2100 rpm but climbing up one of those grades I got down to 1st gear praying it would keep going. We changed plans and headed towards Grad Junction. Boost would be intermittent. watching the boost going up a grade, I could see it boost and then start falling off or gaining at random (with wide open throttle). I made it to Grad Junction and dug in further found that Winn pre-filter leaking around the o-rings. picked up some replacements and had to double them up to stop the leaks. Decided to test the CAC just in case that repair failed. Well, repair still good, an LOT of leaks still. So decided to get to Boulder where we can dig into it further. Started out and things where working great again! got up Vail pass, slow but steady, with boost even with all those CAC leaks. Got up the Eisenhower tunnel about the same but by the time I got to the bottom, I got get almost no boost again! I did make it to our destination, but now what to do next?

OK... WHEW! Well, I drove the coach ('96 Monaco Windsor) from Page to Bryce Canyon with no problem, not using the engine brake. Went from Bryce to Capital Reef on the BEAUTIFUL Hwy 12 and every steep down grade the engine stopped and I had to purge it with the Winn system to get it going. Thinking it still had something to do with applying the engine brake, I really heated those babies up on those 8% downs! even in 2nd gear! I barely made it to the Wonderland RV Park in Torrey. I talked with the owner who used to run a fleet of trucks and he said "guaranteed bad fuel filters". So I ordered some and replaced them. When I purged the system it acted like something was blocked. I noticed that a little bit of fuel was bubbling out of the new fuel pump aat the threaded connection on the suction side. I disassembled and used some good thread sealant and the leak stopped. I purged the system again and it still acted like there was a blockage, so it dsconnected every component and purged to see if if fuel would flow and find the blockage. I got all the way up to the pressure regulator that feed the return to the tank. everything was clear until I got to the return line and hooked it back up. I disconnected the return line on the tank and ran the purge... Blocked! So, I am now engaged in replacing the return line. I want to thank all of you who responded and hopes this may help someone else! THANKS!

Celeb, in the future, do not remove the clear canister unless you see it full of debris. That will ensure no air leakage past those pesky O rings

Celebrant1 wrote:
What kind of lube works best?

Pac Brake SuperLube or Tri-Flow. Needs to be a synthetic lube that can handle the high exhaust heat!

Check the Parker Racor 700 series.

Check the Parker Racor 700 series.

wolfe10 wrote:

wny_pat wrote:
The Winn air purge system was great when they were new but after many years they develop small leaks with all the O-rings and seals inside. Many people replace them with regular filters or bypass them.

Agreed. Parker/Racor has a replacement for the obsolete Winn system.

But, an exhaust brake that sticks shut can also cause this. Have you lubed the exhaust brake and confirmed that it opens and closes freely??? Hard for the engine to run if the exhaust is completely closed off.

http://www.pacbrake.com/index.php?page=maintenance-2

Thanks! I checked and it seems to move freely... but I will lube it up. What kind of lube works best?