still confused about GCVW & towing

thanks for the discussion gents

I'm really not ready to leap back into towing, as that is what I just escaped (2500 Ram + 23' Aerolite).

The transition to 'only RV' to move about in, is an adaptation that will require a bit of training; still, I see others have 'gone bare' with no ill effects.

The 23' length with 6L Chev is just dandy; packing up & moving so easily will take a bit of practice is all.

Still, I'm liking the idea of 'something' on the bumper......bicycle/Honda 90/etc is small enough & has 'SOME' practicality.

I'm still working on 'the bed' issue; discovered the sleeping with head to the dinette end did help; shopped foam pads today as the air mattress isn't working well enough. Got the Coleman single depth (6"?) queen size, and blows up easily with the inflator/hair drier style gizmo. We just don't like the way it pops up so much when moving on/off it.

The wood-top install on the stove made huge improvement in noise abatement.

Did the 'winterization' routine last week & had the RV tech show me how to drain everything so next year I can do it at home.

It's a VERY convenient 'club house/spare room' parked out there.

I'm going to do the cleaner/wax routine for the winter season next. Any tips?

I own the same RV as you.
Your GCWR is 16,000 lbs.
Your frame does not have extensions which could lower the max tow rating.
The rating of your cheap hitch is the limiting factor.
You can have a hitch shop upgrade it.
I have not done it; I still have the stock hitch.

duplicate.

J-D took time to explain it well. I hope you understand you will be fine with the Van GVWR. The fully loaded dually van can carry 12,000 + (what is on the door sticker) and you will only have about 10,000 pounds on those 6 tires, you will be fine.

However the engine, transmission durability and other things like driveshafts also take into consideration the GCVWR, that is higher than the 12,000 door sticker. It also takes into consideration if you have a 4.10:1 rear axle ratio or 3.73:1 ratio, that the lower number means the engine will turn slower for a given road speed, get better mileage, but have less horsepower at that lower engine speed, so the GCVWR is also reduced a small amount.

So my guess is the GCVWR is something like 15,500 pounds. Because your van is not loaded totally to the limit (a very good thing) you can tow about 5,000 pounds safely if you have the right hitch.

If GM had put the larger 8.1L engine into that size van, the GCVWR would be in the 19,000 pound range, like the pickups. However cooling issues limit the van GCVWR to much lower than the pickups for a given drivetrain and rear axle ratio.

For the Ford 460" equipped van chassis, after 1994, the GCVWR was around 22,000 pounds in the class C and 26,000 pounds in a class A like I have. However Fleetwood limits my towing to just 3,500 pounds due to the hitch being mounted to a frame extension that Fleetwood installed before building my RV. The class A has a much larger radiator, transmission cooler, and factory installed oil cooler (on the coolant line) to give it more cooling ability than the van based motorhomes.

You should have no problems towing the Jeep, provided it has brakes. Like you stated, most states require them over 1,500 pounds towed load, and most have break a way requirement to apply the brakes full force if the line between towed vehicle and tow vehicle is separated.

quietjake - You're matching the wrong set of numbers in your formula.
You have a couple limitations on how much you can tow.
1. Hitch rating. Should be on the hitch itself.
Most common is 350 lbs tongue weight and 3,500 lbs towing
or 500 lbs tongue weight and 5,000 lbs towing.
2. Actual weight plus the towed vehicle or trailer should not exceed
the Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) - Your Chevy likely has a GCWR of 16,000 lbs. That is what my 2002 Trail-Lite has.

The 12,600 lbs you are reading on the door post is your Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) not your GCWR. Your fully loaded Trail-Lite should not exceed the GVWR when on the road. You can add the weight of your towed load to what you actually weigh up to your GCWR.

So if your numbers are accurate, you could easily tow the JK Wrangler.
(9,100 lbs + 4,200 lbs = 13,300 lbs under the GCWR rating of 16,000 lbs).

I suspect the Jeep will exceed your 3,500 lb hitch rating. I would want a shop experienced in hitches to determine if replacing your 3,500 with a 5,000 would be suitable.

GVWR......the max weight you rig is rated for
GCVWR.....the max your rig PLUS towed combined weight your rig is rated for

Good Math, Incorrect Conclusion -

That 12600 should be Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). That's the max the loaded COACH can weigh, and you're well under.

Should be another rating posted someplace, the Gross COMBINDED Weight Rating (GCWR). It'll be that 12600 plus a figure for towed weight. My GUESS would be around 3000-3500, but you should be able to find it.

Say it's 3000 which makes GCWR 12600+3000 or 15600. That's well above you calculated 13300, so you'd be OK, PROVIDED

1. Trailer Hitch's rating accommodates Jeep's 4200 weight and
2. You put supplemental braking on the Jeep. Coach brakes are rated at GVWR not GCWR, and your state probably requires supp brakes anyway.

Door sticker will give you the GVWR. Chassis MFG, IE General Motors will set the GCWR. In your case it would be the scaled ready to travel weight of the B plus the Jeep. That is your combined weight. If your under then your good, if your over then your not so good.

700 lb. over your GCVWR so it's POSSIBLE your warranty would not cover an issue if it were related to towing weight. GCVWR is not usually considered a safety related issue.
Good luck / Skip