Surge Guard self install

rwbradley wrote:
I like the portable, because it is simple and any idiot (like Me) can use it. However I have concerns about having a $400 piece of electronics sitting outside exposed to theft and the elements.

I have read of many people who have concerns over the possibility of their portable surge guard being stolen. In all my years of rv'ing, I've never heard of this actually happening. Typically, you only find FHU in rv parks and occasionally in a state campground (Oregon has them). I think you'll find that these are normally occupied by other honest (like you) rv'ers.

Also, the portable unit is 100% weather proof....don't have to worry about it being out in the elements. It's gonna be ok.

However, that said..... installing a permanent unit is not that difficult if you have the space to install it. As mentioned, the wires are a heavy gauge and are not easy to manipulate, but certainly doable by anyone who can read and/or see different colors (wires are color coded).

Good luck

Ron

There isn't much of an under ground market for 30 amp surge suppressors. Your power cable might be more tempting along with a grill, bikes, coolers, comfy chairs,,,. As an added benefit to the portable when it breaks, and it will (probably years and miles down the road), you can easily pull it off and enjoy your camp site.

rwbradley wrote:
I have been shopping around for a 30A Surge Guard for my TT, and am torn between a portable one and a hard wired one. I like the portable, because it is simple and any idiot (like Me) can use it. However I have concerns about having a $400 piece of electronics sitting outside exposed to theft and the elements. The hard wired ones seem to be a little cheaper, and it appeals to me to have it permanently installed and secured. The question is: how hard are they to install for a reasonably handy non-electrician?
Thanks

The short answer is that a permanent installation does require skill and knowledge... Its not really that complex but the installation of a permanent surge-guard will require one to insert it in the wiring. Either before or after the transfer switch. The wire are necessarily very heavy gauge and not friendly to work with and physical position may require fabrication of some of the wiring.

My choice of having a permanent installation is because I wanted to insert the surgeguard after the transfer switch so all voltage entering the coach is monitored and protected... This installation does expose the transfer switch, but the components of a transfer switch are easy to swap out and relatively inexpensive as is an entire transfer switch. I carry spare components...But have never had occasion to need them.

The portable unit will offer protection for the transfer switch but not for the generator feed... From what I have seen this is the most popular choice.

JohnnyT

jsmart wrote:

Bumpyroad wrote:
if you can get to the box where the external cord is attached, my friend's MH had one screw and the lid was off, three obvious lug nuts there, white/black/red. with 30 amp would need just B/W. buy a suitable piece of 8-10 2 wg and jumper from there to the surge protector and plug/wire in cord there. if your input is thru a surface mounted male twist lock plug then it will be more difficult to find the proper place to hook up.
I epoxied a padlock hasp to the side of mine and run a locking cable thru there. I did on my motorhome just leave it in a basement compartment, ran a cord from the surface mounted male to the surge protector and used a standard 30 amp cord from there to the pedestal.
do NOT buy a permanent one unless it has a bypass feature.
bumpy

Don't want to hijack this thread, but why do you need a bypass feature on a permament install bumpy?

so if I ever would get into a low voltage situation, I could bypass it and still use minimal juice and operate things that low voltage won't ruin.
bumpy

It mainly depends on access to your wiring. I was able to access the rear of my service panel and place the protector under a drawer. One less thing to worry about setting up and storing. I put the remote display right there facing the door so I can see it without even going inside the trailer.

Bumpyroad wrote:
if you can get to the box where the external cord is attached, my friend's MH had one screw and the lid was off, three obvious lug nuts there, white/black/red. with 30 amp would need just B/W. buy a suitable piece of 8-10 2 wg and jumper from there to the surge protector and plug/wire in cord there. if your input is thru a surface mounted male twist lock plug then it will be more difficult to find the proper place to hook up.
I epoxied a padlock hasp to the side of mine and run a locking cable thru there. I did on my motorhome just leave it in a basement compartment, ran a cord from the surface mounted male to the surge protector and used a standard 30 amp cord from there to the pedestal.
do NOT buy a permanent one unless it has a bypass feature.
bumpy

Don't want to hijack this thread, but why do you need a bypass feature on a permament install bumpy?

7 yrs. of FT travel......100's and 100's of CGs.
Portable hanging right out there on power pedestal

Would have done a 'hardwire' IF I had easy access/location but portable did it's job.
Hardwiring is not difficult......follow the instructions

Buy the Progressive Industries Model.......Lifetime warranty
Other brands....1 year and that has limitations/restrictions

if you can get to the box where the external cord is attached, my friend's MH had one screw and the lid was off, three obvious lug nuts there, white/black/red. with 30 amp would need just B/W. buy a suitable piece of 8-10 2 wg and jumper from there to the surge protector and plug/wire in cord there. if your input is thru a surface mounted male twist lock plug then it will be more difficult to find the proper place to hook up.
I epoxied a padlock hasp to the side of mine and run a locking cable thru there. I did on my motorhome just leave it in a basement compartment, ran a cord from the surface mounted male to the surge protector and used a standard 30 amp cord from there to the pedestal.
do NOT buy a permanent one unless it has a bypass feature.
bumpy