Switching from Synthenic to Dyno Oil?

I have never wasted my money on Synthetics on many vehicles in over 1.7 million miles. Never a problem or oil burner. My father was an automotive engineer who also just said "change it often". The insides of my engines are clean.
Dino Oils have improved so much I should go with much longer change intervals.

Come on Guys! He has a GAS engine, why all the synthetic for diesel talk?
(BTW, I have a diesel)
Switching back to dino will not harm your GAS engine, drain pan, change filter then get out there and roam.

Travelon

I expect synthetic in a diesel mainly helps at start up being thinner.

I have a CAT3126E diesel in my Class A. When I took delivery of the rig I called CAT to ask about the synthetic/dino issue. CAT factory told me they don't recommend either one. However, they said that if I chose to use synthetic it would not change the oil change interval! They also said that if I exceeded their oil change interval recommendations I would void the engine warranty which was 100,000 miles. They ended the telephone call by telling me that if I wanted to spend the extra money for synthetic it was my money and my choice. I have stayed with dino oil and have not regretted the decision. I run a Cummins engine in my Dodge now with 140,000 miles on dino still runs great.

I ran two very large Cummins engines in a large charter boat with dino, sold it with 4,500 hours and neither engine burned one drop of oil between changes when I sold the boat! Those engines ran 24/7 and had an Onan 12KW generator which also ran 24/7 and had only dino in it and had 15,000 hours on it and never burned any oil. Your money, your choice!!

I have a CAT3126E diesel in my Class A. When I took delivery of the rig I called CAT to ask about the synthetic/dino issue. CAT factory told me they don't recommend either one. However, they said that if I chose to use synthetic it would not change the oil change interval! They also said that if I exceeded their oil change interval recommendations I would void the engine warranty which was 100,000 miles. They ended the telephone call by telling me that if I wanted to spend the extra money for synthetic it was my money and my choice. I have stayed with dino oil and have not regretted the decision. I run a Cummins engine in my Dodge now with 140,000 miles on dino still runs great.

I ran two very large Cummins engines in a large charter boat with dino, sold it with 4,500 hours and neither engine burned one drop of oil between changes when I sold the boat! Those engines ran 24/7 and had an Onan 12KW generator which also ran 24/7 and had only dino in it and had 15,000 hours on it and never burned any oil. Your money, your choice!!

I used to use synthetic oil, but have given up on it.

My jeep tj has 270,000 miles on it. I drive it every day, and it gets a dyno oil change every 4000 or so.

RV, vintage honda 750, and 68 camaro get changed every year period. typically 1500 miles for the car and bike, 12k for the bus, all well below manufacturers recommendations.

If I pay 3x as much for oil, I would expect it to last 3x as long.

Only vhicle that worked for was my daily driver vette's, 30k a year, new mobile 1 every 15k....

Always use synthetic in gasoline powered engines that I want to last. Boats and cars.

Always use Rotella T in my diesels (dino).

I would stay with synthetic for your 8.1 liter gasoline engine.

I would stick with synthetic. While you may never have a problem with dino oil, you're almost guaranteed to never have a problem with synthetic. Cost difference is negligible.

wca01 wrote:
Mobil Delvac 10w-40

For those who don't know, Delvac is Mobil's oil for diesels. It comes in both dyno and synthetic. The Delvac XHP 10W-40 is a synthetic extra high performance diesel engine oil. Excellent oil!

I have been testing engine oils in autos, trucks, and motor homes since 2000.

Without any question, synthetic oil is superior to dino oil. It will not only provide longer drain intervals, but increased life for any engine no matter what the change interval.

Engine oil doesn't wear out, it just gets dirty and that depletes the oil additive package. When the additive package is depleted, the oil gets dirtier, and the process continues to multiply. The dirt and depletion of the additive package is the result of products of combustion escaping the cylinders and contaminating the oil.

The cycle described above is unique to internal combustion engines. When is the last time you had to change oil in your refrigerator or air conditioner? The time to change oil, no matter what the type, is when it is dirty, and an oil analysis is the only way to determine that. You can get your oil analyzed for a much lower cost than changing it -- maybe $20.00.

High tech filtration (by pass oil filters) can keep the oil clean enough so that it never needs to be changed. I have seen a bearing shell from a Cummins engine after 1,000,000 miles with no oil changes, but with a bypass oil filter that still had the factory scoring on the bearing shell. That engine used Shell Rotella T 15w-40. The magic wasn't in the oil, but in the filter.

I have run a Cummins 8.3 for over 100,000 miles with no oil changes and Mobil Delvac 10w-40, but with a bypass oil filter and the oil analysis showed it to be "new oil."

The only quality way to tell when to change the oil is by an oil analysis. Any other method is a guess.

You pays your money, and you takes your choice. I am not here to judge, but I use synthetic all the way.

Good Luck!
Wil