Test Norcold Control Board

Galvanized, I have been trying to contact you, would PM me pls...thanks Tradewinds Bob

Flanz wrote:
Sorry, but there is a way to test the board, but I'll bet the Tech who came out doesn't have access to the tester. They can be purchased, but the cost of the tester really isn't something you want to take on.

I would replace the new board with the old and make sure that the Tech DEBUGS the fridge instead of taking a SHOTGUN approach to fixing it. I would tell him/her that you want your money back for the board that did not fix the problem. A GOOD Technician will be able to debug this issue without part swapping. I've fixed/debugged many problems with just a basic meter and a 12 volt test light probe and I don't even work on the stuff.

-paul

REALLY? They have a tester for Norcold boards? Enlighten us. Because both I and Norcold have no idea where you would get such a tester. ALL tests for a Norcold control module are done with the module installed. You CANNOT test a Norcold board that has been removed from the refer. So, where do you get such a tester and how much? Doug

Couple of years ago, had the same thing happen. Started with a blown fuse on the board. Had a burn spot. Replaced fuse. Worked for a bit but then stopped working. Worked only on propane. You prbly don't want to hear the rest but I ended up with a new cooling unit and board. Mine was 10 years old at the time with all the recalls done. Every unit may not be the same but I saw your price estimate? with labor? of the board at $325.00. Saw some listed at $195.00. Rv Cooling Unit Warehouse. They're on Ebay/the net. Its where I got mine. I replaced it myself and I'm not a repairman. Ended up replacing both when cooling unit failed.

Assuming yor problem is not working on AC and you have a $6 Volt/ohm meter I'd do a couple simple tests. I'd first check that you have 115V at the outlet. Next I'd check for 115V on the pair of heavy wires that go to the flue. They come out of the bottom of the board to the left of center. If both tests have 115V then I'd do a ohm test on the electric heaters. Unplug the 115V cord from the outlet and using a needle nose pliers pull the two pairs of wires loose from the board. Using the lowest ohm setting check for continuity for each of the two heaters. Seems like you should get 50 ohms if I remember correctly and one burned out will stop it from working on AC.
PS: Be sure to turn the meter from ohms settings as the next time you are in a hurry to do a volt test you will get a burnt smell from the meter. I'm just glad they are only $6 now.
This may be the control board for your unit.

Sorry, but there is a way to test the board, but I'll bet the Tech who came out doesn't have access to the tester. They can be purchased, but the cost of the tester really isn't something you want to take on.

I would replace the new board with the old and make sure that the Tech DEBUGS the fridge instead of taking a SHOTGUN approach to fixing it. I would tell him/her that you want your money back for the board that did not fix the problem. A GOOD Technician will be able to debug this issue without part swapping. I've fixed/debugged many problems with just a basic meter and a 12 volt test light probe and I don't even work on the stuff.

-paul

If NOT working on AC, even if you have a burned spot on the board. I assume it was at the 120 element fuse area. You check for 120 at the Element fuse. Then you OHM out the 2- 120 elements.
1. If you have current to the board but NO power to the fuse, the board is probably bad.
2. If you have power to the fuse and Power at the 120 element terminals--the elements are bad (replace BOTH even if one is still good).
3. You have to have the board installed for a check out.
4. 120 diag is SIMPLE if you know what you are doing.
5. If he determines that the 120 elemnts (1 or both) are bad, he replaced a board for no reason. Brown spots on the fuse area of a Norcold board are not uncommon for a good working board. Doug

IMHO, since replacing the board did not fix the problem, I'd wait until he fixes it, then reinstall the board and ask for a refund if the old board works. If not, well you'll be out a few bucks for time spent switching the boards in and out. If it is still good, you saved even more bucks by not replacing something that's not broken....AFAIK, there is no way to accurately test the board other than installation.....Dennis