Tire Extenders

I forget what it took to get the rubber stabilizers into two of the eight little round holes in our wheels. Wasn't easy but I don't remember having to lube them.
Speaking of soapy water, Our custom rear stems must have been properly installed (Loctite discussion above). Still had the 75-psi I'd set them to nearly four months ago. Another shameless plug for custom stems!
But the Spare was Flat! I found the nut was loose on the non-custom metal stem, after rolling it into the pool and finding the bubbles. The fronts, with the same valve stems, were still at the 60-psi I'd set there, but I think I'd better go check for tightness.

It was bothering me that I was not able to install the rubber supports so I got out there with a spray bottle of soap solution and a large screwdriver.

To my surprise, I was able to install them. It appears a fit is impossible, but that is not the case.

The key is to use a large flat blade screwdriver that will work the inner lip of the support while not tearing it. And the soap lubricant is critical.

I use one like this to fill dual tires. stems should be 180* from each other. I would also use These beads for balancing. Remove all external weights and add the proper amount of beeds and forget it.
I bought one of THESE to measure and put Thesefrom WalMart into bags for my tire Guy to install with my new set of tires. They balance great and I feel no vibration. Even if the tread picks up small rocks the beads will compensate for them.
I don't have a clue as to how long the plastic ones will last but I wanted to try them. For a Dually I would go with the more expensive DYNA-BEADS.

I worked for a car company for over 30 years and was always amazed at what engineers would come up with to solve a problem. If the manufacturer wanted to solve this problem they could do it. I just feel for safety reasons and to save us a lot of grief that these value stems should be factory install and come standard on RV's.

Yes, the fact that the custom stems are 180-degrees from each other must help with the balance.

That is certainly a field-expedient method of breaking a bead. Seems like a lot more could get broken too ;)

Tire techs have a machine that does that with a push of a button. They are also really good at slipping the new stem in, not losing the nut, and getting it angled and torqued just right. So I was glad to have the tech do that part.

I took a big chance and had the Auto Skills Shop on the nearby Navy Base:
1. "Flip" two tires on their rims so I could try to equalize some odd wear patterns.
2. Install Metal Valves in Front and Spare Tires
3. Install Borg Dually Valves (one of the "TireMan KnockOffs") on the Rear Wheels
4. Balance all seven tires
I showed them and gave them the instructions to install the Borg Valves and they used the included Loc-Tite. They spin balanced the wheels and used adhesive strips of weight to make the adjustments. Maybe I was just lucky but the job was outstanding. They would NOT do them "on" or "from" the coach. I had put it up on stands and brought all seven mounted tires in aboard our van.
Let me offer this: IF you're satisfied with the balance of your wheels, install them with those heavy custom stems opposite each other. It'd be tempting to put them side-by-side for convenient checking, but my personal belief is that adding pretty much the same weights 180* from each other will not make that much difference in the overall balance of a pair of rear dual wheels as an assembly.
I've heard of installing these valves at home as follows:
Block the Vehicle from Rolling
Remove one Set of Dual Wheels and Place Axle Weight on Jack Stand
Remove Valve Cores
Put One Wheel Under Coach Frame, Valve Side UP, on Side of Coach WITH wheels still installed
"Jack" the Vehicle with Bottle Jack Base on the Tire, right at the Bead, by the Valve Stem and Top of Jack under Vehicle Frame
This should "break" the Tire Bead at the Valve
Install new Valve, Loc-Tite and all
Repeat for Second Tire
Air Up and Install Wheels
Repeat for Opposite Side of Coach

Good summary! It is a frustrating and dangerous situation. Even after buying a TireMan kit the fun is not over.

My friend had a $90K Class C with rubber valve stems and no way to check air pressures. I did some research and recommended a TireMan kit and TireTraker TPMS.

We went to the local tire place, encouraged the counter guy to read through the TireMan instructions, and hoped for the best.

Two hours later we return and the guy hands me the Loc-Tite included in the kit: "Oh, we don't need to use that."

Right. The TireMan includes Loc-Tite for no reason.

After a few hundred miles we were back with two stems leaking. The Loc-Tite got used this time.

Episode 2. I bought a 19 yo Class C. Out of 6 valve stems, only 2 were usable. The others had damaged threads and/or various bizarre extenders.

Hoping to save some money, I called up a local heavy tire repair place. Oh sure, we can set you up.

I go over there and of course they have no U-shaped or long valve stems. I'll be back, I told them.

Went home and ordered the TireMan kit for $180. When it arrived I went back. The good thing was, this operation is mostly outdoors so I could participate and help with following the TireMan's instructions.

"This is not my first ro-de-o", the tire tech informed me.

"Well, this is MY first ro-de-o", I informed the tire tech, and said I would like to learn from him. And help follow the instructions.

The guy was good. He used the Loc-Tite with minimal grumbling. But he would not do the careful alignment in the instructions. The stems do not touch the wheels or wheel simulators, but the rubber stabilizers do not fit. I was not happy about this but decided to let it slide.

What about balancing? "I can't balance with that thing sticking out," the tech insisted, pointing to the long straight stem on the inner wheel.

This seemed odd. Again, if the TireMan says to do it...

But I figured I was not going to drive over 55 mph, maybe I would luck out on balance, and if there was noticeable vibration (?) I would come back.

So, I got set up but it was a frustrating and not entirely correct process.

It is amazing to be driving these expensive 7 ton vehicles with such a critical component not set up correctly at delivery. But that is the nature of a system put together from very different components, as the previous poster explains.

It seems ridiculous, but if you are anywhere near Ridgecrest CA I would seriously consider having the TireMan install his kit. You know, like on the North American land mass or perhaps anywhere in the Milky Way galaxy.

Joking aside, that won't be practical for many so at least insist on going over the instructions with the tech who will do the work. Politely explain that the Loc-Tite needs to be used. Does the tech have any concerns or questions?

Good luck! If you find a good place or know of one, please post.

This summer I'll be replacing the tires and will install steel stems. The inside dually stem will extend out and includes stem support for $100. The outside dually will have a short outward facing stem.

Like others all of my rims came with a standard stem that worked but was a PITA for all tires. Monacos solution was to add flexible extension hoses on the duallys which are always prone to leak.

As others have said the reason is cost.
The last thing you want to do is put those flexible extenders on your stock valve stems. They have a tendency to leak and if they get loose from the anchoring point they can flop around and not only do damage to your wheel but suddenly deflate the tire.

What is needed is a extended valve stem that will let you quickly check your tire pressure.
The best on the market is The Tire Man
Chuck is the original designer of these an he has been around for years. There are a few knock offs around too so buyer beware of them.

They don't come with extenders because extenders are a really bad idea, when you have someone like NHTSA tracking safety problems.

On RVs, they used to come with 80 PSI rubber-metal stems because that was the cheapest solution that permits a wheel to go on any position. From a safety standpoint, that is an adequate solution if the end user does not add anything heavy to the end of the stem, like a pressure monitor or an extender.

Fleet owners usually order these cab-chassis and cutaways with 1 to 1 1/2 inch metal stems. This lets a wheel go on any position on the vehicle, permits routine service using truck tire service tools, and is still short enough to sustain the loads on the stem when the wheel is spinning and banging down the road. These still do not permit the use of extenders, they will still flex like rubber/metal stems and fail from fatigue.

If you want to use extenders, you need to install the shortest available metal (preferably stainless steel) stems that will fit. These still need to be serviced (replaced, or the gaskets replaced) whenever the tire comes off the wheel for service. Problem with the short stems is that even if you don't use extenders, you need extenders to service the tire, as there is not enough space between rim and stem for the head of a pressure gauge or a chuck.

Usual recommendation for RV users is installation of custom long metal stems that allow service without using truck tools, and often let you check pressure with wheel covers installed. These are not going to be a factory solution, because the wheels then have to go to a specific position, and the long stems have to be properly supported, enough of a problem to become an issue with NHTSA because they put an additional "take care of this for safety" on the operator. Just look at the issues not too long ago with floor mats getting pushed under, or lately with knees bumping switches, or the "sudden acceleration" issues in the 70's from drivers not quite getting the transmission selector into park.

Most you can hope for from the factory is a metal stem long enough to service, short enough to not need support, like those used by fleet operators.