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wpatters1229's avatar
wpatters1229
Explorer
Apr 09, 2013

tires and brakes on my four winds chevy 3500 chassis

Just to follow up on an old subject. All about tires. I bought 4 new tires for our class c rears from firestone. Inflated them to 80 and the fronts to 75. Ran over 8000 miles this last summer from west coast to east and back. Not one bit of trouble and only had to top off once after half way through the trip. Great tires and the 80/75 psi seems ideal for all the altitude changes, heat and rough roads.
Now my concern is with brakes. Does this rig have disk brakes in the back axle? It is a 2005/2006 Chevy Express 3500 chassis. On real steep down grades as much as I try with down shifting etc. the brakes sometimes get hot to the point where they really start to shimmy...I mean the rotors are warping bad...they seem to straighten out after they cool. Has anyone replaced the fronts with drilled and slotted rotors? I did that with a jeep and it really made a difference.
Let me know your thoughts on the brakes.

Thanks
Class C
  • carringb's avatar
    carringb
    Explorer
    Apr 09, 2013
    DO NOT put cross-drilled rotors on your motorhome. Those are huge stress concentration, and cracks will form quickly starting at the holes.

    As Rolin mentioned - your calipers are probably not sliding properly.
  • wpatters1229's avatar
    wpatters1229
    Explorer
    Apr 09, 2013
    I do pull a jeep about 3000 lbs with ready brake and practice the hard stops to reduce speed 10 mph. I put it in 2nd which ends up reducing me to 40mph...but will go faster if I do not brake. I could use first gear but that would not allow me to go fast enough for traffic. It is kind of a point of which should I abuse, the transmission or the brakes. I need to look at the manual to see what the range if for the 2nd gear. Still think the slot and drilled rotors with ceramic pads will greatly improve the braking. Have not looked to see what is there now since this was bought used a couple of years ago from El Monte and am sure they probable used original equipment rotors and pads.
    Thanks for the feedback
  • NC-Hawk's avatar
    NC-Hawk
    Explorer
    Apr 09, 2013
    44,000 miles and no problems with my brakes.


    76,789 miles here on the original brakes (just state inspected) and I haul a small trailer. 2nd set of tires although the originals had plenty of tread, just sidewall cracking.

    GM did good with the '04 3500 chassis. :C

    Oh, and she's also been to the top of Pike's Peak & back. :B
  • Go_Dawgs1's avatar
    Go_Dawgs1
    Explorer
    Apr 09, 2013
    I have an 03 Chateau on the Chevy chassis. Had the front shimmy very bad. Just replaced the front pads and had the rotors turned. Flushed the lines and added new fluids. No shimmy, no soft peddle, and stops great. I beleive the rears are pads and didn't replace them this time. I had the guys at my local NAPA do the work on the rotors and luckily I have friends in high places who owe me so they assist with the work and it took about 4 hours to complete.

    Be sure when traveling downhills that you allow your tranny to do the job and apply brakes to slow you by 10 mph and the release. Have traveled the Cascades in a 33' Class A and my Class C and never had a problem with braking.
  • Handbasket's avatar
    Handbasket
    Explorer
    Apr 09, 2013
    If this was while towing your Jeep, I would start by suspecting the toad's brakes &/or brake controls.

    Personally, I like to go down mtn grades in a low enough gear that I'm using more gas pedal than brake. I have the advantage of 6 ratios to pick from on pavement, but this is the way I've done it even back in the 3-speed days.

    Jim, "Mo' coffee!"
  • tenbear's avatar
    tenbear
    Explorer
    Apr 09, 2013
    44,000 miles and no problems with my brakes. Of course I don't live out west in the "real" mountains.
  • Rolin's avatar
    Rolin
    Explorer
    Apr 09, 2013
    On our 2003 G3500 GM based motorhome we had a very bad shimmy when the brakes got hot. Found that the front calipers were not moving correctly, the pad was engaging the rotor incorrectly (pad not wearing evenly). I replaced the rotors, installed new pads, cleaned and greased all moving surfaces of the calipers so they would slide correctly.

    No more shimmy and much better braking (less peddle pressure required).
  • wpatters1229's avatar
    wpatters1229
    Explorer
    Apr 09, 2013
    The cost I have found for a set of rotors, drilled and slotted plus ceramic pads is around $250. Seems cheap compared to the possible loss of braking power. We have had people jump in front of our rig while trying to give distance to the cars in front while coming down a steep grade. When your brakes are already shimmering it makes it tough to feel like you have anything left to stop. I know how to use the tranny and how to brake hard and then back off. Been driving buses and trucks so that is not the issue. The way people are and the equipment seems marginal since when they place a large rv chassis on a Van chassis it makes all those great brakes that are stock somewhat questionable. Most of the braking is done with the fronts so that is where I intend to spend for the upgrade. Not sure how to check for the correct valve or system...but changing the fluid is also on the list. I always have it power flushed.
  • enblethen's avatar
    enblethen
    Nomad
    Apr 09, 2013
    Quick check on O'Reilly's website indicates they are disc brakes in the rear. You should be able to look through the wheels to verify.
    Make sure you replace the pads with ceramic severe duty.
    Shimmy would come from the front wheels. Expensive to replace rotors. May not have enough to mill.
    Make sure you change the brake fluid.
    Have someone check to see if there is a proportioning valve for the brakes. Early GM cut away chassis had an adjustable proportioning valve.

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