to the honda2000 owners....

I tried all kinds of things for my 13,500 and did finally get it start up one time by providing 120VAC directly between the Honda and the air conditioner. It ran good until it needed to recycle again and then quit...

I did not play with any different type start capacitors...

I have run my 5000BTU window unit sitting inside my POPUP trailer with the rear of it outside over the edge and the window flaps duck taped around it... Worked like gang busters. I tried a test once on a 8000BTU unit and it started up on the ground outside the trailer so guessing it work ok as well...

Used to sit my 5000BTU A/C on a wood pallet outside a second door in my three room tent setup and it ran just fine on my 2KW generator.

Just need more grunt power for the 13500 and the 15000 BTU units...

Saw one guy running one of those TurboKool RV Motorhome Battery 12-Volt Evaporative Swamp Air Conditioning Cooler on his trailer once in the desert country. He said that worked great to but he had to keep water flowing all the time which was a big hassle thing. These work just like the swamp coolers back in the 60s in Arizona...

Roy Ken

I ran a plain old 13.5K as a test, but it was not a hot day.

Get the Yamaha 2400 iSHC, and go with a bigger A/C
Yamaha 2400 iSHC
This model boasts High Current output which is designed specifically to increase motor starting capability and to improve air conditioner starting. This High Current model starts most high efficiency 13,500 btu AC in temperatures up to 110° F.

The site says Yamaha does not recommend purchasing this unit to power a 13,500 a/c. I'm confused.:h

I run parallel 2000s with a 1500 BTU.

salem wrote:
The site says Yamaha does not recommend purchasing this unit to power a 13,500 a/c. I'm confused.:h

Scroll down to features.
https://www.yamahamotorsports.com/generator/models/inverter-ef2400ishc

There's a recent post of folks claiming to run 15k rooftops with a single Honda 2000 and a magic after market motor controller device. I remain suspicious.

With any 2000 watt generator either Honda or Yamaha, it's not so much the running amps, it's the start up in rush amps that's the killer which be well over 60 amps or higher.

When I had to replace my ac in 2010 I got Dometic's high efficiency model, still 13.5k, and it runs well with the 2000. Everyone should get it when replacement needed, but you have to ask for it. They do not promote it.

The model then was 459530.701C0, but I think the number has changed.

Dometic's 459530 Hi-Eff 87 lbs. AC protection=15 amp compressor loaded amps=8.6 fan loaded amps=2.5 Total FUll load amps=11.1 amps.
Within one Honda 2000 output of over 13 amps.

Here's the real numbers for my high efficiency unit and operating it:

Dometic's 459530 Hi-Eff 87 lbs. AC protection=15 amp compressor loaded amps=8.6 fan loaded amps=2.5 Total FUll load amps=11.1 amps.
Within one Honda 2000 output of over 13 amps.

Here's my actual numbers:

I fired up my new Honda 2000 & plugged the Kill-a-watt meter into it. 126 volts. Then I plugged in my motorhomes 30 amp power cord with the proper adapter. I did not bother turning the breaker off to the converter based on my earlier analysis. The draw was 2.6 amps. Then I turned the AC fan on low. 4.5 amps. Then I turned the AC on and it went to 11+ amps and slowly climbed to 12.5 amps and had no problem running. In my motorhome the AC was nice & cold & the battery was being charged. All lights worked fine. I switched the eco on & had no problem. I switched the AC fan to low let it run for 1/2 hour. The draw then was 11.5 amps. Sweet. This high efficiency AC is worth every penny!

Air temp = 87 (hotter than before)
interior motorhome temp 95+

Gen only = 126.6 volts.

With my MH plugged in & converter left on = 126.2 volts 2.73 amps, 176 watts.

Turning the AC fan on to LO = 125.6 volts, 4.34 amps, 416 watts.

Adding the AC compressor
= 123.8 volts, 11.1 amps, 1210 watts. These slowly went up to 11.52 amps & 1250 watts.

Turned the fan on HI = 123.2 volts, 12.5 amps, 1381 watts. These numbers slowly drifted a bit higher.

Turned the fan back to LO & let it run 15 minutes. Nice & cool inside. 123.2 volts, 12.49 amps, 1400 watts, less than the 1600 watts continuous rating of the Honda.

My elevation is only 750 feet. Most people know at higher elevations the genny loses some hp so plan accordingly.

My solution won't work for some people, but it does for me.

Above from this thread in 2013:
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26879670/srt/pa/pging/1/page/3.cfm

Hope this reply helps with some general information: I have both a Yamaha 2400 and Honda 2000. They Y-2400 runs a 13,500 btu a/c just fine (it doesn't run a 15,000 consistently) The H-2000 "CAN" run 13,500 but "ONLY" when you start the fan first, get up to speed and THEN press the cool button. It will not start the a/c with out fan running first and then will not run it continuously, and never from a dead start.

The Honda -2000 will run A/C's 9,000 btu and lower (consistently use with 6,000 8,000 and 9,000 btu units on several of our Roadtreks' and pleasureway's) As a previous poster said, it is the startup amperage that makes the difference. On a "B" they will work fine as A/C's are around 7-8,000 btu and Microwave usually 700 watts, and both will run at same time.
Check the spec's on you unit's appliances, and compare to the peak and running output of your gen set, and decide what you want to be able to run concurrently.
Good Luck