Travel ready or trade-in

Travlingirl wrote:
Now to push forward and find out the cost of repair or trade in allowance. Taking small steps here, but I'm not backing off.

If you are thinking of trading it in, I would figure out what you want to buy and from what dealer. then go to a different dealer to discuss fixing it up/repairs/etc.
bumpy

Tire DOT serial date can be de-coded by reading last 4 numbers of the tire serial.
I have pictures if you need. PM me as I can't them post here.

If you only have 3 numbers at the end then the tires are older than 2001
.

Have the tire date codes checked, replace tires for your safety if older than 5 years old and if they show serious side-wall cracking regardless of appearance of tires. Have entire brake system including front brake flex lines serviced and brake fluid flushed and replaced. Have entire engine cooling system checked and replace belts and hoses. Roof and dash AC should be serviced as needed.
Check operation of fresh water pump and all plumbing, water heater,furnace, awning fabric, and as mentioned above, check for roof leak water damage, need for roof repairs and re-sealing around roof vents, etc.
Your post sounds as if you may be intimidated by sales and service people. Take along a friend preferably with some mechanical and RV experience with you to evaluate what the RV service folks think that you'll need and the validity of cost estimates. If you have a mobile RV service, with a good reputation, have them inpect the rig and advise you. Expect actual repair/replacement costs to go higher than estimates. Consider cost of repairs in terms of resale value after repairs versus total costs of buying a newer/new rig, i.e. taxes, DMV fees, insurance, loan interests, etc. A lot depends on how you plan to use the rig, local camping vs touring accross the US, satisfaction with floor plan and length, storage space, etc. plus cosmetic appearance inside and out. Take your time, don't act on impulse. From my experience the roof AC unit, fridge, fresh water pump and furnace may need service or replacement when about 10 years old,

Thank you for your input. We did get it running. Definitely needs a thorough cleaning outside and inside. Tires don't seem to be dry rooted. Air/Heat works. No rodent or other type of issues found. Looks like a leak in the roof though. Lights and blinkers all work. Now to push forward and find out the cost of repair or trade in allowance. Taking small steps here, but I'm not backing off.

Go to your local dealer and show it to the service manager, not the sales manager. He's interested in fixing it up. The sales manager is looking to sell you a new one. Even if you decide to sell it after its fixed, you'll have a record of what was recently serviced/replaced that you can show to a potential buyer. Be sure to replace the tires, even if they look brand new.
I didn't use mine at all last summer, but I store it in my heated building and keep a trickle charge on the batteries. I plan to use it this year, so I'll have my service guy check it over stem to stern and fix what needs fixing before I hit the road.

If it was sitting for three years, needs what the above mentioned, and a few more (I don't intend to repeat, but add a few):

• Oil, brake fluid, and ATF changed. Don't forget the generator oil as well.
  
• Inspection for rodent intrusion in the engine compartment and elsewhere. Too much rodent infiltration may render the rig uninhabitable.
  
• Generator dropped, new carb replaced and voltage/frequency tested.
  
• Fridge flue checked out and burner cleaned. It may be a nice home for spiders or even squirrels that might nest there if the opening is large enough.
  
• Water system sanitized thoroughly. I know in Texas that fresh water in a tank will grow entire civilizations due to the algae unless kept cleaned out.
  
• Like stated above, check for water intrusion on the inside. If it has soft spots, bubbles in the wallpaper, discolorations, and mold smell, it is time to unload it, as it may not be habitable.
  
• As above, water heater... If a Suburban, replace the anode rod. If an Atwood, drain and flush. If not winterized, the water heater might be cracked/split.
  
• The coach battery and the house batteries are almost certainly shot. If not turned off or disconnected, parasitic discharge has probably killed them long ago.
  
• The propane system likely needs testing, from the tank to the appliances.
  
• Tires have a good chance to be shot, unless they were replaced before the motorhome sat.
  
• Check bedding and sleeping surfaces. They may be too moldy to sleep on. Same with the cushions on the sofa and dinette.

If it has been sitting outside without cover for three years, it probably needs:

1. fuel tank drained, and fresh gas
2. new tires
3. new batteries
4. fuel injection service
5. brakes and brake lines
6. house generator carb rebuild
7. fridge service
8. hot water heater service
9. water line service (potential frozen pipes)
10. fuel pump and ??????????

Before you do any of the above, give it a good washing and check for water intrusion inside. If you find signs that water has been leaking into the side walls, it is not worth fixing up.

If there are no leaks, and if you want to keep it, see if you can get a local mechanic to get it running. Once you know the costs to get the running gear sorted out, you can decide whether it is worth going further with it.

Bill

does it start? does it run? what needs fixing up? all a dealer can do is estimate what it will cost to get it into an acceptable condition, and you can decide if it is worth the cost/effort or if you just want to unload it. as it hasn't been driven in 3 years doesn't sound like it would make a lot of sense in pouring money into it unless your situation changed.
bumpy