Upgrade to 50amp?

It would be easy enough to separate the AC out to a separate cord. The problem you might run into is that some parks don't have a separate 15/20A recep.

I have a 50A Rv but when it's plugged into 30 we have the same problem.
I added a new recep on the bed pedestal and ran a new cord (an extension cord)
That I plug into the pedestal for wifey to use for her hair dryer. Or the hot water maker.

Was the fridge and water heater set to propane only?
Can you use the hair dryer on something besides max speed and heat?

Otherwise the conversion should not be too bad. The hardest part is pulling 6/3 romex from the cord entry to the new electric panel. If you have access then go for it.

This may not be the best solution for you but it will work. Buy a 240 volt breaker box, connect one load side of breaker to existing converter and the other side to your AC feed. Buy a new 25 or 30 foot 50 Amp cord and connect to the line side of the new breaker box.

If you can do it yourself it would cost $250 to $300, which would include the box, breaker, 30' cord w/ male connector, and misc. supplies.

You could add an automatic transfer switch or manual switch that would allow you to use the electrical system as it is now(incase there is no 50 amp pedestal)using the existing 30amp cord or use the new arrangement with the 50amp cord. Additional cost would be another $300 or so.

LOL.....It takes me about 3 minutes to blow dry my hair....and no...it is not an inconvenience to shut off the AC while doing this. My AC runs fine with my coffee pot on and I can set the microwave for a 2-3 minute run without tripping the breaker. I generally don't leave my water heater on. I've been RVing for over 15 years and I too have learned how to adapt to such things and its not a big deal.

What I probably should have stated more clearly is that I AM wanting to use the convection oven for baking but don't want to have to shut down the AC for a 30-40 minute stretch while I do that. It gets hot in Tucson...and yes....I could avoid baking/roasting in the summer time....but I don't want to have to. This was the basis of my original question.

Thanks,

Sue

Upgrade to 50amp?

No.

It's the nature of the RV beast. Plugging in the hair dryer being the one culprit for blowing a breaker when the air is on.

When the ac is on you can NOT plug in a hair dryer, toaster, micro or sometimes even a coffee pot. You just LEARN not to do it. The longer you RV the more it will become something you do without even thinking.

'Everyone' that owns an RV has the exact same problem. Owners with 50 amp have the same problem also when plugging in too many things at one time.

These RV's are not your 200 amp panel in your stick home that you are accustom to! :W

How long does it take to dry your hair?

We have had a 30 amp RV now for 7 years (2007 Winnebago Outlook 31C). To use a blow dryer, you HAVE to turn off the A/C and the electric water heater element. It is only for a few minutes though, so it isn't an imposition.

We also have to turn them off to use the convection/microwave WITH the convection feature. If we just use the microwave function, only, we have never had a problem. (Actually, we don't have to turn off the water heater to use the convection/microwave. Winnebago wired the water heater and the convection/microwave to the same breaker throught an ATS. If the microwave is not running, the water heater has power. If we start the microwave, the ATS kills power to the water heater automatically. But we still have to turn off the A/C if using the convection feature.)

As far as a separate line to shore power, it would be easier to just run an extension cord out the window to the pedestal to power the blow dryer.

Sue,

In the RV world, 50amp service is more than 30 + 20. Changing an existing system from 30 (5-30) to 50 (14-50) would be a significant tear up and expensive if you did not do it yourself. (You actually could.)

The plan to separate the A/C unit and run it to another 15~20 receptacle is better, but without digging around in the unit, I cannot say how hard that would be. Many dual A/C units are shipped with this arrangement in place.

Matt

Replies'll be interesting. I've thought the same thing. The advantages are clear. Problems are at least that we'd need a second or different 120V panel (breaker box) to serve the other 120V "leg" that makes up the second branch of the 50A service. Some of the (forgive me if I use wrong terminology) "primary" wiring (shore tie, main feed into breaker box) would have to be upgraded.
That's all do-able. I'm more concerned that a 30A coach just doesn't have the branch wiring to spread 50A service across enough outlets to take advantage of it. That's when you think of say, Coffee Maker and Toaster. They might be plugged into different OUTLETS, but are more than likely to be fed by same WIRE and same Breaker. And if that branch is 15A, we should not up the breaker to 20A.
We have a 15000A/C and 1000W microwave. Our 30A will sometimes trip using just those two (plus yes, the Converter). So far we just do Load Shedding. If A/C is running, only one other high load AC appliance: Micro, Toaster, Coffee, Hair Dryer, Water Heater. That isn't as bad as it sounds except for forgetting. For example, we often turn A/C off during a meal, so we turn the Water Heater on. By the time we want the A/C back, there's hot water for the dishes. But if it's a peak day, water heater on LPG is the only option.