upgrading my 30 amp service to a 50 amp

hardtobe wrote:

pugslyyy wrote:

Ryan7361 wrote:
Short version:
I'm upgrading my 30 amp service to a 50 amp.
I'm comfortable with the actual work, just need someone to point me toward a new 50 amp distribution panel with a converter and a battery charger! Anyone know of any good brands/sources?

Just curious as to why you need to move from 120V-30A to 240V-50A? That's a heckuva lot more power, and of course the whole 2 phase thing adds greatly to the complexity.

its not 240V its two 120V runs why do u say 240V all that does is confuse people whom don't know whats what
its 240V possible at the pedestal but when run into ATS at motorhome its split into 2 120V circuts

Sorry, but let's get this straight.

An RV 50 amp has two hots (as well as neutral and ground) that run from CG distribution panel to the outlet you plug into, then through the shore power cord, through the ATS and into your AC breaker box. JUST LIKE IN YOUR HOUSE.

Yes, just like in your house the vast majority of circuits (except in some large motorhomes) run on one hot, so it is 120 VAC.

But it WILL measure 240 VAC between the two hots and you could have a 240 VAC appliance in your RV if you so desired.

pugslyyy wrote:

Ryan7361 wrote:
Short version:
I'm upgrading my 30 amp service to a 50 amp.
I'm comfortable with the actual work, just need someone to point me toward a new 50 amp distribution panel with a converter and a battery charger! Anyone know of any good brands/sources?

Just curious as to why you need to move from 120V-30A to 240V-50A? That's a heckuva lot more power, and of course the whole 2 phase thing adds greatly to the complexity.

its not 240V its two 120V runs why do u say 240V all that does is confuse people whom don't know whats what
its 240V possible at the pedestal but when run into ATS at motorhome its split into 2 120V circuts

Best Converters is the place to go Progressive Dynamics 4500 is what you described as wanting, make sure you get the Charge Wizard models or the optional wizard and plug it in.

Progressive Dynamics at Best Converter.com

Personally I would not go the integrated route.. I'd go with a 9200 and a distribution panel or two (one 12 volt one 120 volt) but that's me... I like discrete since if one part fails.. You don't have to mess with the rest.

I agree with purchasing from Best Converter but will add Master Tech to the mix. When my converter died, I contacted both and bought from Master Tech. I just like talking to Wes Miller at Master Tech and he helped me more than I think it was Bruce, at Best Converter. Wes' phone number is 800-848-0558.

I would add that I have no FIRST HAND information or experience with WFCO, but I haven't read anything good in this forum or any other products.

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

My understanding is that if both legs are maxed out the neutral will carry nothing.

tahiti16 wrote:
Think you got it right Scott, because if both legs were running at max then neutral would be carrying 100amps so no single leg could ever over load the neutral.

Pianotuna has it correct. Provided the 240V supply is correctly connected (and not both legs connected to a single 110V supply as can happen at some campgrounds) the neutral will only carry the difference between the current drawn on the two separate 110V legs.
To qualify my comment in parentheses, IF both legs of the 50A outlet are connected to the same 110V supply, (ie 0 volts between the two legs) then the neutral will carry the SUM of the two sides. This can result in a dangerously overloaded situation that will not be caught by most breaker setups.

Ryan,

I only do work on RV for owners that are already clients for the boat work side, but I have converted two from 30 to 50 amp. Progressive Dymanics makes several versions of the panel you want. They are complete with AC, Converter/Charger and DC. If what they have will fit in the location you have in mind, you are in luck. Neither of the jobs that I did were that way and the required wood woodwork was both extensive and costly. But, the owners both loved it.

Matt

Hi,

My understanding is that if both legs are maxed out the neutral will carry nothing.

tahiti16 wrote:
Think you got it right Scott, because if both legs were running at max then neutral would be carrying 100amps so no single leg could ever over load the neutral.

Just to clarify what some folks have said. If both legs are loaded to 10, 25, or 50 amps, the neutral is carrying zero (0) amps.

Think you got it right Scott, because if both legs were running at max then neutral would be carrying 100amps so no single leg could ever over load the neutral.

But back to a question that was asked early on why do you think you need the change? Unless you make some significant changes in how everything is wired you won't gain much. Things like upgrading the wire from entry point to ATS to 4 wire and rated for 50 amps per leg, upgrading the ATS to work with 2 50 amp legs, upgrading wiring from ATS to breaker box, and possibly replacing breaker box so it will use 2 legs of hot. Lots of work, depending on where the wires run and how good the access is to them. Along with a lot of money.

pianotuna wrote:
Hi Scott,

I meant which conductor carries the load. i.e. in a 100% imbalance I believe the neutral carries the load. That's not desirable, because the neutral wire may be smaller than the other wires. Of course, the neutral should not be undersize--but folks love to save a dime, so they will use #8 instead of #6 for the neutral.

In a 100% imbalance the neutral would carry the same load as if both sides were carrying the same amount of current.
So if one side was pulling 50 amps and the other side zero, the neutral will carry the same load the same as if both sides were carrying 25 amps.
But keep in mind that the neutral is capable carrying the load even if both sides were maxed out.
If someone were to under size the neutral then they will have problems anytime they get near the 50 amps whether it be on one side or both. But I think this is a mute point because the nuetral comes up the power cord so it's pretty much impossible that it be sized wrong and this wire would connect directly to the panel - ATS not withstanding.
Using just one side doesn't change the amount current the Hot sides carry or move it to the neutral.
I hope I wrote all that down right - I'm getting tired ;)

Scott