Forum Discussion

palehorse89's avatar
palehorse89
Explorer
Feb 08, 2014

Upgrading to a 10,000 reciever?

I have been searching the threads on here looking for info. on upgrading my 5,000# receiver on my Spartan MM chassis to a 10,000# rating for the purpose of towing a enclosed trailer. My Spartan chassis has a 10,000 GCWR, The Newmar sales Boucher states that it came with a class 2 receiver w/5,000# weight rating. I have read were some have had a weld shop "beef" their OEM receiver up, and others that have bought a new receiver rated at the 10,000#. Through out my search's I have not found anyone that lists a 10,000# receiver for a Spartan MM Chassis specifically, Where does a person find a higher capacity receiver that will bolt on to my Spartan chassis?
Any Idea's? Where does Spartan buy the receivers for their chassis? I think some of the late model chassis have come with 10,000# receivers(or higher) from the factory now?
My specs from Newmar = GVWR - 31,000# GCWR = 41,000#(I am under the GVWR)
  • All's I can post is what I have been told, I can not locate, or find a receiver that has the "close design" like mine that is on the Coach now. This is why I am thinking that there is folks out there with a couple year newer Spartan MM chassis that has the newer 12,000 class 4 receiver that might just be the replacement I need. My next move is to call etrailer and talk to a rep. and give them my bolting dimensions and the height I need and see what they come up with, reading on the net and buying from etrailer, they are very accommodating to their customers needs.
  • ok, I'll give it a try, I can just here the parts man now, " if this is not a recall, I cannot help you with this" The hitch number you posted was a special build and is not for sale, this is what I was told(posted above) Curt that makes the replacement would not sell me one and Spartan would not sell me anything after running my vin. number and stating they did not mount a receiver on this chassis. So they are not interested in helping me bolt one on now it appears to me.
  • I just went back through all the posts and I thought I posted the width, but I did not that I can find in all the commotion trying to figure this out, my frame mounting holes (width) are 31-1/2" C to C. and 6" apart evenly(can re-drill these) on the mounting plates bolted to the frame rails. Thanks for taking the time to work with me on this retro-fit of mine.......
  • I spent lots of time searching the forums and found this thread and wanted to do the same thing...I am new to RV'ing and just bought a 01 Four Winds Hurricane on a GM/Workhorse W20 frame, spaced 34" on center, w/ a gas 454. It came with a Reese Class III hitch limited at 3950 lbs, but I think I can tow more than that with a GCWR of 19000 lbs and a UVW of 12441 lbs. Any advice or links to the right place or product would be much appreciated!!!
  • TurboHokie wrote:
    I spent lots of time searching the forums and found this thread and wanted to do the same thing...I am new to RV'ing and just bought a 01 Four Winds Hurricane on a GM/Workhorse W20 frame, spaced 34" on center, w/ a gas 454. It came with a Reese Class III hitch limited at 3950 lbs, but I think I can tow more than that with a GCWR of 19000 lbs and a UVW of 12441 lbs. Any advice or links to the right place or product would be much appreciated!!!

    Questions for ya, what is the GVWR of your Coach? Get her weighed loaded ready to roll on truck stop scales to make sure you are not over the GVWR, then subtract the GVWR from the GCWR = what you can tow.
  • Brian in Michigan wrote:

    This
    is what you need.

    I know you can put heavier hitch setups on but with my smaller MH you get too heavy of a hitch weight on the back end you get the tail wagging the dog. I could not imagine with the these super heavy trailers what would would transpire. That's why I posted the Trailer Toad It makes more sense to me to take the tongue weight off of the MH instead of putting it on.I know the larger MH's with the axles towards the very rear have less of a problem with this but I think it would also help with wear/blowouts on the rear tires.
  • Brian in Michigan wrote:
    Brian in Michigan wrote:

    This
    is what you need.

    I know you can put heavier hitch setups on but with my smaller MH you get too heavy of a hitch weight on the back end you get the tail wagging the dog. I could not imagine with the these super heavy trailers what would would transpire. That's why I posted the Trailer Toad It makes more sense to me to take the tongue weight off of the MH instead of putting it on.I know the larger MH's with the axles towards the very rear have less of a problem with this but I think it would also help with wear/blowouts on the rear tires.

    Hi Brian, like I posted over on IRV2 , the use of the trailer toad is basically for the reason that the tow vehicle is grossly overloaded and the trailer toad relieves this condition, but it still remains overloaded on the GCWR of the tow vehicle. GVRW minus the GCWR is all something can structurally handle by design, frame, engine, transmission, everything involved. When driving over the road truck, when loaded to a GCWR of 80,000# the truck and trailer was maxed out, power, ride, handling, etc. Now , when I only loaded 25,000# on the trailer for a GCWR of 55,000# , WOW, super truck, all kinds of power, rode great, handled like a Cadillac! I would rather be under my GCWR of my Coach than to be way over for the reasons posted above.
  • When I purchase my 97 Imperial and got it home I noticed that the 5000 lb hitch mountings had all cracked and that almost nothing was holding the hitch onto the frame. I had a hitch installer remove the hitch and strengthen the frame and weld a new 10k receiver onto the chassis. My toad weights less than 5k but I wanted the extra towing capacity. I am so glad that I didn't flat tow home from the dealer on that initial trip because I am sure I would have lost my toad.
    Steve