Went to the Hershey show for the second time, really nice units, but we are really adverse to paying $80K for a new Class A.DW and I are going to check out an 8 year old Damon Daybreak that has - wait for it - 4000 miles on the clock! What in the world? I have already looked at the unit and it looks like it has been used on the inside,no mold/musty smell, no delamination, and the outside has 8 years of sun wear.I suppose the unit was either sitting in a back yard, or in FL somewhere at a snowbird RV Park.It has a 2005 chassis, V10, Torkshift tranny. I'm figuring that any rubber (hoses, belts) would need to be changed, all fluids purged, and maybe the brake calipers replaced, tires, essentially up to $5000 in repairs to get back up to snuff.Anyone else purchase an RV in a similar situation? What did you do to get it ready for the road? Any regrets?Once repaired, it should be, in my mind, an almost new RV drivetrain for the price of an 8 year old unit (30% or so off of original MSRP).

You would not need to replace the calipers or brake pads. Just bleed out the brake fluid every 6-7 years and use only Ford Motorhome brake fluid, for the 22,000 pound GVWR chassis or higher rating. It has the lowest 'wet' boiling point of any commercial brake fluid.Hoses and belts? I replaced mine at around 45,000 miles and 10 years old. No need to worry much about those either for now. Yes you might want to change the transmission fluid, and give it a new oil change for the engine as well.Sanitize the water system with a couple of tablespoons of bleach (unscented) and fill the tank with water, then drive around the block to slosh it around, then pump it out the lines, letting the water sit for a hour, then overnight in the lines (after getting in fresh bleached water to the lines). It should be a great buy.Fred.

Why not negotiate 25% or so off MSRP for a new unit with 3 year chassis warranty? That should be especially do-able this time of the year.

vjstangelo wrote: Once repaired, it should be, in my mind, an almost new RV drivetrain for the price of an 8 year old unit (30% or so off of original MSRP).I bought my diesel pusher when it was 7 year old, 30,000 miles in like new mint condition for 65% off the original MSRP. It had been kept in a climate controlled garage all of it life when not being used. All it needed was tires.I would think you should get it a lot cheaper that 30% off of original MSRP.Should be a good unit. Buy it, make it yours and have fun.

JnJnKatiebug wrote:vjstangelo wrote: Once repaired, it should be, in my mind, an almost new RV drivetrain for the price of an 8 year old unit (30% or so off of original MSRP).I bought my diesel pusher when it was 7 year old, 30,000 miles in like new mint condition for 65% off the original MSRP. It had been kept in a climate controlled garage all of it life when not being used. All it needed was tires.I would think you should get it a lot cheaper that 30% off of original MSRP.Should be a good unit. Buy it, make it yours and have fun.Sorry, I meant at 30% of original MSRP.

And sadly, you may find 80K doesn't get you a great quality new RV. Buying used is "safer" in my mind. You can buy a brand new rig and still have problems (breaking it in, poor workmanship esp in that price range etc). With a much smaller up front investment you can buy used, get the unit up to snuff as you say and have just as much fun.We bought used and get for 28K what would be 130K new. It needed 3K worth of work to bring it up to code. It had improvements a new unit wouldn't have. We don't have to worry about small scratches or the dogs making a mess. You get the idea.

Used Class A Low Mileage | Good Sam Community

29 Replies

hipower
Explorer
Sep 15, 2014
Those who mention seals drying out and leaking, do you have any personal experience with that actually happening in the last 25 years or so?

Seals were made of leather, cork and oil impregnated ropey materials years ago and did dry out and sometimes leak. Those materials have been gone for years and the newer materials don't seem to experience the drying effect and only leak when improper installation or damage is a factor in my experience.
rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Sep 15, 2014
Rodent damage to a unit's electrical or electronic engine/transmission controls, that has not been used much, can quickly add up to thousands in repairs. Don't sign on the dotted line until you can do a complete inspection of the inside and the UNDERSIDE looking for any signs of rodent infestation/damage.
Belts that have sat for years should be replaced. The rubber tends to harden in the position it was kept. Considering the hassle when a belt breaks, it is cheap common sense to replace them at your convenience than to have to deal with a broken belt on the side of the road.
Flush the brake system completely, which will use 3-4 QUARTS of fluid and have the calipers inspected to insure that the slides are not frozen. The Calipers and pad should be OK. The discs may have surface rust but check for any pitting.
The generator may need a complete service, and an inspection for insect damage.
This could be a good deal if everything checks out, especially if you can do a lot of the work.
JnJnKatiebug
Explorer
Sep 15, 2014
vjstangelo wrote:
JnJnKatiebug wrote:
vjstangelo wrote:

Once repaired, it should be, in my mind, an almost new RV drivetrain for the price of an 8 year old unit (30% or so off of original MSRP).

I bought my diesel pusher when it was 7 year old, 30,000 miles in like new mint condition for 65% off the original MSRP. It had been kept in a climate controlled garage all of it life when not being used. All it needed was tires.

I would think you should get it a lot cheaper that 30% off of original MSRP.

Should be a good unit. Buy it, make it yours and have fun.

Sorry, I meant at 30% of original MSRP.

Yes, 25 to 30% of the original MSRP would be a pretty good price. If it has sun damage then I would want to be in it for no more than 25% of the original MSRP.
Gjac
Explorer III
Sep 15, 2014
With 4000 miles I would be more concerned that the seals dried out in the eng, trans or Genset. How many hrs on the genset? Condensation also is a concern in the fluids also as well as the wiring in the genset. It maybe a real gem or have the above problems and I would expect more than 30% off MRP for an 8 year old MH. What are the asking fror the MH? I would check for leaks and look for evidence of rust ion the dipsticks. Start the genset and make sure it starts and runs without surging and it runs the AC and other appliances.
tjfogelberg
Explorer
Sep 15, 2014
And sadly, you may find 80K doesn't get you a great quality new RV. Buying used is "safer" in my mind. You can buy a brand new rig and still have problems (breaking it in, poor workmanship esp in that price range etc). With a much smaller up front investment you can buy used, get the unit up to snuff as you say and have just as much fun.

We bought used and get for 28K what would be 130K new. It needed 3K worth of work to bring it up to code. It had improvements a new unit wouldn't have. We don't have to worry about small scratches or the dogs making a mess. You get the idea.
vjstangelo
Explorer
Sep 15, 2014
JnJnKatiebug wrote:
vjstangelo wrote:

Once repaired, it should be, in my mind, an almost new RV drivetrain for the price of an 8 year old unit (30% or so off of original MSRP).

I bought my diesel pusher when it was 7 year old, 30,000 miles in like new mint condition for 65% off the original MSRP. It had been kept in a climate controlled garage all of it life when not being used. All it needed was tires.

I would think you should get it a lot cheaper that 30% off of original MSRP.

Should be a good unit. Buy it, make it yours and have fun.

Sorry, I meant at 30% of original MSRP.
JnJnKatiebug
Explorer
Sep 15, 2014
vjstangelo wrote:

Once repaired, it should be, in my mind, an almost new RV drivetrain for the price of an 8 year old unit (30% or so off of original MSRP).

I bought my diesel pusher when it was 7 year old, 30,000 miles in like new mint condition for 65% off the original MSRP. It had been kept in a climate controlled garage all of it life when not being used. All it needed was tires.

I would think you should get it a lot cheaper that 30% off of original MSRP.

Should be a good unit. Buy it, make it yours and have fun.
janstey58
Explorer
Sep 15, 2014
Why not negotiate 25% or so off MSRP for a new unit with 3 year chassis warranty? That should be especially do-able this time of the year.
Golden_HVAC
Explorer
Sep 15, 2014
You would not need to replace the calipers or brake pads. Just bleed out the brake fluid every 6-7 years and use only Ford Motorhome brake fluid, for the 22,000 pound GVWR chassis or higher rating. It has the lowest 'wet' boiling point of any commercial brake fluid.

Hoses and belts? I replaced mine at around 45,000 miles and 10 years old. No need to worry much about those either for now.

Yes you might want to change the transmission fluid, and give it a new oil change for the engine as well.

Sanitize the water system with a couple of tablespoons of bleach (unscented) and fill the tank with water, then drive around the block to slosh it around, then pump it out the lines, letting the water sit for a hour, then overnight in the lines (after getting in fresh bleached water to the lines).

It should be a great buy.

Fred.

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Used Class A Low Mileage

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