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helperzack
Explorer
Oct 13, 2013

Water Heater, could it be the Thermostat or ECO problem?

Recently posted about my Atwood gas water heater #G6A-8E. It lights (like a pilot light) but no forceful flame to heat. I think that because it lights that rules out a problem with the circuit board and the thermal cut off.

Followed all of the clean out of everything that everyone suggested, still no forceful flame.

Could it be the Thermostat or the ECO that needs replaced? I think that these control the valve?
Does anyone know how to test these items?

Suggestions welcomed and appreciated.

3 Replies

  • Finally had time to get out and research this problem some more. After going over everything on the water heater I proceeded to determine that the furnace would not light either. Then I went to check the stove. Well it lit but would only work with a very small flame, no high.

    Worked my way back to and found a kink in the flexible hose that comes off the LP tank and connects to the lines on the motor home chassis. Straightened this hose and everything is working as normal. I think it may have gotten kinked when I had a blow out on the way home last camping trip as my LP tank is directly behind my R rear wheels.

    Now to order a new hose. I did not find any problem once straightened but I'll feel a bit better with a new one. Are the gas hoses threaded backwards?

    Thanks everyone for all the suggestions, I have learned much from this episode.
  • No the t-stat and ECO do not control gas valve. They control temp. of water....when pre-set temp is reached 'Normal' t-stat opens (140*F) and shuts off power to control module. If normal fails to open the ECO (high temp) then opens (180*F) and shuts off power to control module (and fault light comes on at ON/OFF panel). Faulty t-stats----no power to control module----NO gas valve operation---no flame.

    Small gas flame is due to low gas pressure (11" WC), faulty gas valve, plugged main gas valve orifice.

    You need to remove orifice and clean it-----still small flame then you need to test gas pressure at gas valve and test gas valve function (solenoids & gas valve opening)

    And yes......problem is not with thermal cutoff. If it was blown (one shot device) you would have no power.

    Your problem is with the gas pressure, gas valve or orifice.