Water heater not operating & City water issues

Ok, did some troubleshooting. Here is what I have so far....

1. Atwood 6ga water heater
2. Strong blue flame under 12V - I'm assuming this is operating under propane?
3. Electrode engulfed in flame as it should be
4. Will NOT ignite when I use 120V switch.
5. Found that my pressure relief valve has a drip when it water heater is hot. I even jiggled the relief valve and let a little water out and it still leaks. It had this small leak before as well.

Questions:

How can I diagnose and repair the 120V issue?
How to replace the pressure relief valve. Is it a simple screw off and screw on a new one? Plumber's putty or teflon tape needed?

Thanks!

Thanks for the replies. I will do some trouble shooting as suggested and see what results I get. I'll post more on Saturday.

My daughter had multiple issues with her brand new TT and Atwood water heater. Short answer. Re-seat all electrical connections at the water heater. Remove, clean (including the area of the tank that they touch it) and re-install BOTH temperature sensors/switches.

After a few trips back to the dealer the above solved the issue.

I would guess that the fresh water tank did not fill up because the drain valve was open, and whatever water leaked in from the fill valve being in not quite the right spot just drained out more or less immediately. It sounds as though you took the proper corrective action, i.e. adjusting the fill valve.

Has the water heater worked previously? If you've used it in the past, one thing I would check to begin with is that the bypass valves are set properly for water heater operation and not (partly) bypassing it. Checking that there is water in the tank (by, say, operating the relief valve and seeing if water comes out) and whether it's getting hot would help. If the propane heating turned off after a few minutes, it could be because the water in the tank was hot but it just wasn't getting out. It could conceivably also behave similarly if there was no water in the tank, in which case the 120V element is probably now shot and needs replacement, and possibly some of the gas safety overheat gizmos also need replacement.

If it's not bypassed and has water, then it's a matter of troubleshooting the heater controls etc. as Old-Biscuit wrote about.

1st the easy one....

Fresh water tank overfilled cause city valve was NOT in correct position and water leaked by thru Fill position

Water heater........
Well that could be many things and depends on which BRAND/Model it is.

Atwood uses 12 DC for controls on both electric and propane
Electric uses 12V DC to ON/OFF switch then to a relay that triggers the 120V AC to element. Could be tripped 120V Circuit breaker, could be a bad DC relay, could be a bad element.
Propane uses 12V DC to open gas valve and for spark ignition. Main flame has to prove it lit or circuit board will trip DC to gas valve. Could be dirty spark electrode, bad electrode/ceramic, bad ground
RED Fault light will come on
Atwood uses SAME set of t-stats for temp control on both electric and propane.
Propane lights but doesn't stay lit so the t-stats are good.
Also that circuit has a thermal fuse that shuts down ALL DC but it is good otherwise propane would not fire at all


Suburban uses separate sets of t-stats for electric or propane
120V AC set for the electric and 12V DC for propane
Electric not working could be tripped 1220V AC circuit breaker, bad on/off switch, bad t-stat/tripped t-stat (push to reset) or bad element
Propane not staying lit could be bad t-stat/tripped t-stat, bad spark electrode/ceramic, bad ground etc

Which brand/model is water heater?

When it lights on propane....is flame good/strong and blue?

IS spark electrode 'engulfed' in main flame...needs to be. And should glow red

More info on what it does, when it does it and what it doesn't do