I have a 2005 Itasca Suncruiser 38R. I noticed that I had a leak in the supply line behind the water heater. In the process of removing the water heater, I accidentally broke some of the Styrofoam that surrounds it. I'm thinking of just going ahead and replacing it, since it's dated 2002. Before I do, however, I was wondering what material they use in the water heaters? Is it aluminum? If so, I may not need to replace the entire unit if I can repair the Styrofoam. I may go ahead and replace the electric element if I decide to keep it, to avoid having to remove it again in the near future. the model is Atwood GCH10A-4E. It has the heat exchanger built into it. Has anyone done this or is it just better to go ahead and get a new unit? Thanks in advance.

You should be able to duct tape the styrofoam back in place. It is just insulation for the tank which is most likely stainless steel. I wouldn't replace the water heater till it's bad. The electric heating elements do work nice in the tank.Brian

I believe the Atwood water heater tank is aluminum. As far as repairing the styrofoam(?) perhaps you can use a can of spray foam available at Home Depot. Use the spray foam for around windows since it fills the gap but does not expand and pushing things apart.

Atwood uses an aluminum tankStyrofoam is just an insulation that surrounds the tankElement is a 120V AC 1400W 'standard' water heater elementLocated under the protective cover on backside of tankRequires a thin-walled 1 1/2" socket to unscrew the element for removalNew element/new gasket (most any hardware store)The DC/AC Relay that triggers the 120V AC to the element is under that cover also.SO remove the DC Fuse for water heater AND open the 120V AC circuit breaker before removing the cover

My 2005 Atwood developed leaks, about 100 of 'em (pin hole size) and I was able to replace JUST THE TANK.. I also replaced the 1500 watt element with a 375 watt one (1500 at 240 volts = 375 at 120) so I do not trip 30 amp park breakers as quickly .You can just (As someone said) tape or if you have glue that does not "Eat" the stuff gule it back in placeNew tank came with new insulation. new element, New mounting hardware. everythign I needed about 200 bucks as I recall but.. that memory is old.

wa8yxm wrote:My 2005 Atwood developed leaks, about 100 of 'em (pin hole size) and I was able to replace JUST THE TANK.. I also replaced the 1500 watt element with a 375 watt one (1500 at 240 volts = 375 at 120) so I do not trip 30 amp park breakers as quickly .You can just (As someone said) tape or if you have glue that does not "Eat" the stuff gule it back in placeNew tank came with new insulation. new element, New mounting hardware. everythign I needed about 200 bucks as I recall but.. that memory is old.The tank number appears to be 91028. Would you know if that is the tank you installed? Does it have the built in heat exchanger that uses the RV's cooling system to heat the water? If so, they still have the on Ebay for $200. Can you tell me what new mounting hardware it had? Does it have the black face plate that screws onto the water heater compartment? Thanks for your help.

Water heater question | Good Sam Community

14 Replies

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Jun 30, 2019
My 2005 Atwood developed leaks, about 100 of 'em (pin hole size) and I was able to replace JUST THE TANK.. I also replaced the 1500 watt element with a 375 watt one (1500 at 240 volts = 375 at 120) so I do not trip 30 amp park breakers as quickly .

You can just (As someone said) tape or if you have glue that does not "Eat" the stuff gule it back in place

New tank came with new insulation. new element, New mounting hardware. everythign I needed about 200 bucks as I recall but.. that memory is old.
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Jun 30, 2019
Atwood uses an aluminum tank

Styrofoam is just an insulation that surrounds the tank

Element is a 120V AC 1400W 'standard' water heater element
Located under the protective cover on backside of tank
Requires a thin-walled 1 1/2" socket to unscrew the element for removal
New element/new gasket (most any hardware store)

The DC/AC Relay that triggers the 120V AC to the element is under that cover also.

SO remove the DC Fuse for water heater AND open the 120V AC circuit breaker before removing the cover
rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Jun 30, 2019
I believe the Atwood water heater tank is aluminum. As far as repairing the styrofoam(?) perhaps you can use a can of spray foam available at Home Depot. Use the spray foam for around windows since it fills the gap but does not expand and pushing things apart.
Cobra21
Explorer
Jun 30, 2019
You should be able to duct tape the styrofoam back in place. It is just insulation for the tank which is most likely stainless steel. I wouldn't replace the water heater till it's bad. The electric heating elements do work nice in the tank.
Brian

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