I had my city water receptacle changed a few years ago and it solved a problem at the time. Now a new problem has just immerged..The water system is working fine when using city water.When I put the cap on the city water receptacle and turn on the pump the cap pops off and water pumps out of that receptacle. If I turn on faucets within the coach then go out and press on the cap a small weak amount of water comes out of the faucet but not strong at all.Logically it seems as though something is blocked within the RV plumbing. I thought at first the pump wasn't working but when I went outside and observed that water was being pumped out of the city water receptacle I knew I didn't know the answer...Any help is greatly appreciated...1993 Winnebago Brave 27RC

The city water fitting is equipped with a check valve that's purpose is to stop the back flow from the pump when the city water supply is not connected. Your check valve has failed in some way. Fixing it may be as easy as easy as removing the filter screen if it has one, and pushing in on the check valve and letting it re-seat itself. If that fails, the small rubber O-ring that forms the seat may have been displaced. If you can see it and get it back in place, you'll be all set. Otherwise, you may need a new fitting. A quick interim fix is to replace your existing push on cap with a screw in plug from a yard & garden shop. An inline garden hose shutoff valve also works well.

Once while camping we had the same thing happen. Late at nite with no other ideas, I took the air fitting I use for blowing the lines to winterize the system and screwed it in the fitting, that stopped the problem until I could put in a new fresh water fitting.

georgelesley wrote:Once while camping we had the same thing happen. Late at nite with no other ideas, I took the air fitting I use for blowing the lines to winterize the system and screwed it in the fitting, that stopped the problem until I could put in a new fresh water fitting.That is typically what causes the back flow preventer to fail- air pressure. Using an air compressor to blow water out of the pipes often is down at a volume or pressure greater than that valve is designed to handle, and, presto, failure.

Ive had a couple of those bungle up over the years so one of the first mods i do is cut the pex and crimp in a ball valve.

MudChucker wrote:Ive had a couple of those bungle up over the years so one of the first mods i do is cut the pex and crimp in a ball valve.Can you detail what part (ball valve) is used to do that?

Water mystery on pump mode | Good Sam Community

Passin_Thru
Explorer
Jun 06, 2017
Put a metal plate on both sides of the wall and drill a hole through it. Bolt it with Stainless bolts and use some sealant.
rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Jun 05, 2017
I carry one of these with me just for when this happens. This works fine for a temporary solution. I think the problem has to do with the hard water leaving calcium deposits that eventually ruin the seal. I've rebuilt the original water valve a couple of times and I have found a lot of deposits in there.
jyrostng
Explorer
Jun 05, 2017
Sign shops have a aluminum composite material, 2 thin pieces of aluminum with plastic in the middle it's white durable and very easily workable.
psalm10720
Explorer
Jun 04, 2017
You all were right. I went to camping world and purchased a new city water valve identical to what was put in before. as soon as I mounted it I turned on the pump and water started flowing out the faucet.

I have a theory as to why the old one failed. It was installed three years ago and I neglected for a long time to use a water restricting device and I think the strong water pressure took it's toll. I am going to now use a water restricter all the time.

One final issue. When installing the new valve I found the outer skin to the coach has become stressed. My previous replacement was not the first. I am going to have to build (I think) a bigger ring to bolster the mounting of the valve. Has anyone done this? any ideas?
jyrostng
Explorer
Jun 04, 2017
I've had that happen a few times, There is usually a screen on the gasket, remove that and you will see a ball in the fitting center, use a bic pen or equivalent size flat end and bump that spring loaded ball and reset it, that usually fixes it.
tommy_g
Explorer
Jun 04, 2017
psalm10720 wrote:
MudChucker wrote:
Ive had a couple of those bungle up over the years so one of the first mods i do is cut the pex and crimp in a ball valve.

Can you detail what part (ball valve) is used to do that?
If you need something temporary, get a garden hose cut off valve and connect it to the water supply connection. They are cheap at Walmart or any garden supply.
georgelesley
Explorer
Jun 04, 2017
DownTheAvenue wrote:
georgelesley wrote:
Once while camping we had the same thing happen. Late at nite with no other ideas, I took the air fitting I use for blowing the lines to winterize the system and screwed it in the fitting, that stopped the problem until I could put in a new fresh water fitting.

That is typically what causes the back flow preventer to fail- air pressure. Using an air compressor to blow water out of the pipes often is down at a volume or pressure greater than that valve is designed to handle, and, presto, failure.

I suspect that is why ours failed since the first time I blew the lines I forgot to initially reduce the air pressure. That is something i always do now. However when I changed the city water fill I discovered it was 1/4 turn loose which explained the slow mystery leak we had that i had chased for a year. Since a new city water assembly cost somewhere less than $20 I just changed it all rather than messing with the check valve.
psalm10720
Explorer
Jun 04, 2017
MudChucker wrote:
Ive had a couple of those bungle up over the years so one of the first mods i do is cut the pex and crimp in a ball valve.

Can you detail what part (ball valve) is used to do that?
MudChucker
Explorer
Jun 04, 2017
Ive had a couple of those bungle up over the years so one of the first mods i do is cut the pex and crimp in a ball valve.
DownTheAvenue
Explorer
Jun 04, 2017
georgelesley wrote:
Once while camping we had the same thing happen. Late at nite with no other ideas, I took the air fitting I use for blowing the lines to winterize the system and screwed it in the fitting, that stopped the problem until I could put in a new fresh water fitting.

That is typically what causes the back flow preventer to fail- air pressure. Using an air compressor to blow water out of the pipes often is down at a volume or pressure greater than that valve is designed to handle, and, presto, failure.

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