Water switch controller wiring

Thanks OnaQuest.
I tried your suggestion and the new controller appears to not b working. I bought this online so I will contact the seller to see if I can exchange.

There definitely is no other grey wire. All four wires come out of a harness. I did remove a switch and the colors were black and red/white light gauge coming to it.

If I attach the red/white wire to the +12 v and activate the switch, no light comes on.

Kvdbruel wrote:
Thanks for your reply. I did try metering, both for voltage and continuity and found the results odd, hence my question to the forum.
I have four colors, red (heavy gauge-I assume is the 12 volt), red/white stripe (lighter gauge- assume this is like your grey that goes to the switch), white/red stripe (heavy gauge - assume is the load and is the same wire I find at one side of my pump) and black (heavy gauge and assumed to be ground as it connects to common ground on block). If I connect the wires this way, none of the water switches will turn on the pump and there is no light on the pump switch.

If I connect just the white/red together, the water pump works and the pressure switch works to cut off once max limit is reached. However, i still need to get the remote switches to work.

I deduced that my problem was the latching controller, esp since it sits below my fridge and the ice maker line leaked and could have possibly shorted out the circuitry since the board sits on the floor board (not a great design IMHO).

My furnace is not turning on so I also suspect the water leak also partially fried my intellitec controller. AC works fine though.

Thanks for your help, I'll get back to troubleshooting.

You can check the operation of the latching controller by hooking up the RED to the 12v input, the black to ground, the heavy red/white wire to the LOAD terminal and then.... apply ground to the terminal labeled SWITCH. If it works, you are down to a wiring problem.

Here are some additional trouble shooting steps I would try. (maybe not in order)

• I would look around the area and see if you can't find another wire (the missing gray wire) some place in the floor area
• I would remove one of the switches and determine what color wires are on the back of the switches
• I would attach the smaller gauge red/white wire to 12v and see if the switch lights came on

Just a further clarification, the new controller I got is not working and did not come in contact with water.

Thanks for your reply. I did try metering, both for voltage and continuity and found the results odd, hence my question to the forum.
I have four colors, red (heavy gauge-I assume is the 12 volt), red/white stripe (lighter gauge- assume this is like your grey that goes to the switch), white/red stripe (heavy gauge - assume is the load and is the same wire I find at one side of my pump) and black (heavy gauge and assumed to be ground as it connects to common ground on block). If I connect the wires this way, none of the water switches will turn on the pump and there is no light on the pump switch.

If I connect just the white/red together, the water pump works and the pressure switch works to cut off once max limit is reached. However, i still need to get the remote switches to work.

I deduced that my problem was the latching controller, esp since it sits below my fridge and the ice maker line leaked and could have possibly shorted out the circuitry since the board sits on the floor board (not a great design IMHO).

My furnace is not turning on so I also suspect the water leak also partially fried my intellitec controller. AC works fine though.

Thanks for your help, I'll get back to troubleshooting.

Kvdbruel wrote:
I just replaced my mpx latching controller for the water pump switch in a 2000 Fleetwood discovery. Either I got a dead part or I messed up the wiring. Can someone tell me the proper wire colors for the +12 v, switch, load and gound connectors. Greatly appreciated!

The color code used by Fleetwood in the installation of your controller may, or may not, be the same as any other manufacturer. Metering out the various wires (there are only four) should not be a real problem.

PS - If you have lighted switches, there may be a second wire on the +12v terminal to provide power to those lights.

My Fleetwood (Bounder) uses the following code:
+12v - RED
Switches - GRAY
Ground - BLACK
Pump - Red/White