What did you do to your Class A MH today???

Connected RVND GPS audio out to aux in on dash radio - WOW.

Just purchased a new to us 1999 Rexhall Rexair 3550 and took it in to be winterized, fix storage lock, fix leak by a/c, oil change, and put in new plastic vent covers for dash a/c.

Put some Christmas lights on it :E

Loaded up and went for a 46 mile jaunt to Port Townsend for their Christmas Tree lighting with the 3 y/o GD and boy was that a kick. Everything,well almost everything,went well except the little pin dropped out of the nose of the 12V plug for the Brakebuddy and I had no brakes for the toad. That's not the first time that's happened either. Then I was so discombobulated that I forgot to put the toad in Neutral and towed it down the wet driveway and out into the street. I always check the wheels as I pull out and turn to make sure they are turning and,sure enuff,they weren't. No damage except to my ego.
Got ready to come home today and found a low tire on the toad which I took to get fixed and on the way back got a new fused plug for the brake unit,installed it and it blew the little fuse the first time it was turned on. Durn,so I came home with no brakes. The Liberty is only 3600# and you never know it's there. Other than that she ran good, except for crossing the Hood Canal Floating Bridge in a 25-30 mph cross wind.

I just replaced my front tv with a 42 inch LG. It already had an LCD tv, but I wanted a larger one.

Getting ready to go south for the winter! It was 6 F. and the RV started fine, no need for block heater yet.

I went to have a flat repair and tire inspected. The valve had a very slow leak, it would drop to 40 PSI and stayed there for quite long, the shop tech said this was normally the sign of a leak at the valve or at the extension. One front tire had some crack showing but he said they where still OK, this guy worked as a foreman for Goodyear. He said that goodyear tires had a 5 year warranty on cracking, but mine are 2003.

I also went to have my trailing arm inspected and beefed up by a reputable big rig suspension shop. There was no crack and they welded a 1/2 plate on each side of the arms, about 6 to 8 inches long just under the axle extending fwd and back. On this type of welding, he leaves the end open to reduce stress. It needed two guy to remove and install the arm and one Welder. It was the first time for him to weld this type of arm on a MH but he does welding on all sort of suspension system. I never told him where it normally crack but when he came under the RV, he showed me exactly where he taught they crack, he was bang on!

wolfe10 wrote:
ctpres,

Suggestion: 15 minutes, even if under more than 50% load is not enough (per Onan, etc). Remember, you want to run the engine/generator long enough and under enough of a load to get the OIL, not just coolant up to temperature.

Run it for a minimum of 30 minutes with A/C's and/or heaters equaling at least 50% load.

With both motorhomes I've owned one with an Onan 4kw and the other win an Onan 5.5kw generator the manuals recommend running the generator for TWO HOURS each month under 50% load. In the summer run an air conditioner and in the winter run an electric space heater (or two) while exercising the generator.

WTD44 wrote:
I have to remove the kitchen faucet every year to scrap the calcium deposits out of a small orifice. I KNOW what you mean, it is a terrible job to get under there to loosen the retaining nuts. HATE ITWTD

ick. Every year?!


and, the good news is that the pump still runs a bit when turned on which means there's still a leak.


*thumps forehead*

Canadian Rainbirds wrote:

wolfe10 wrote:
ctpres,

Run it for a minimum of 30 minutes with A/C's and/or heaters equaling at least 50% load.

And to get the alternator itself up to temp to drive out any moisture.

Do so normally BUT in this case didn't have glasses on and there was a light on for one dash switch. Thought I left something on - hit switch and gen stopped. DUMB me. Once off I just left it off.
Hint to help others - in beginning I recorded gen run time clock and waited for it to add thirty minutes. Now I just watch bedroom alarm clock. With 110 off it resets to 12:00 on gen power, so 12:30 is all I need to see.

wolfe10 wrote:
ctpres,

Suggestion: 15 minutes, even if under more than 50% load is not enough (per Onan, etc). Remember, you want to run the engine/generator long enough and under enough of a load to get the OIL, not just coolant up to temperature

Run it for a minimum of 30 minutes with A/C's and/or heaters equaling at least 50% load.

And to get the alternator itself up to temp to drive out any moisture.