Work horse WH w22 chassis electrical

OP I sent you the file that I have I hope it helps you. Good Luck Gary

Need wiring diagrams..schematics, chassis build Dec 2009
RV Thor Serrano Jan 2010

Not Fleetwood

Matt
This belongs to a relative and AFAIK, I'm the only one to have touched the electrical since he bought this thing in March 2010
My first thoughts were over load condition from something aging and wearing, which is what I tried to test for
The fact that several items have totally quite working is leading me to believe a wiring problem,
Hence the need for the diagrams to help in tracking down the problem
I really do not want to start cutting open all the wiring harness trying to find the common ground,
It's not a common hot problem, fuse block has power,
Problem must be on the ground side of the circuit

Look for rodent damage as they love to eat the soy based plastic insulation from the wires. Soy based insulation

Well Wiz,

I got roped into solving problems like this because I did a lot of boat work before the depression and many clients also had RVs.

That distribution fuse going out is either a harness failure (it will blow instantly every time) or an overload (it will go out at some time and not reliably).

If it is a harness insulation failure, there is nothing you can do but try to inspect all of the harness. The only thing I can promise is that when you find it, you will know it. Look for places that the harness can chafe.

If it is an overload, someone probably put a new piece of equipment on that chassis circuits. An easy start is to disconnect the house bank and find what is powered that should no be. I once found a BF inverter installed on the main engine battery. That is a Big Bozo No-No.

Matt

I don't know what brand your MH mine is a 2003 Pace Arrow is on a Workhorse W22 chassis, Fleetwood has been very good about giving me info and wiring diagrams.
fleetwoodrv.com/contact Cached
Parts, Service & Technical Support 800-322-8216. Hope this will help

this is the "chassis/automotive" circuits
the ground for the different devices does not connect at the fuse panel,
except for the grounds for various relays

the grounds for the A/C blower etc connect to chassis or engine block etc

main battery negative/ground is good

@Gary..yes please send the PDF

I would definitely take a good heavy piece of wire and connect from battery negative to the neutral in the faulty panel first. If that makes things run, you can check the neutral feed wires at both ends.

I had my neutral wire on my converter panel go loose. The converter was maxing out trying to feed the battery, but the battery was falling in voltage because the power wasn't coming through the bad connection with sufficient amperage to charge.

You will find it.

fuse normally takes a while to go out, NOT an instant short
i was suspecting..wiper motor problem or A/C blower /compressor clutch problems
i replaced with a 20amp fuse, place clamp on dc amp meter on main input buss
then operated different items, looking for excess amps
never went over 14amps with all lights on and radio
heat or a/c or wipers would not come on, have power too the controls
like i said .. suspect common ground wire problem
that finally opened up all the way, loose or corrosion caused excess current, when driving at night with a/c or heat
BUT now has gone completely open and killed the circuit

Need some more information please. Does the 60A fuse blow out instantly, or does it take some time. One is a short circuit, the other is an overload.

Have you removed all the fuses in the subpanel and then tested to see if the 60A fuse stays on? If it does stay on, then try putting one of the items in the panel at a time. If it stays OK for wipers, then try the next smallest load, then see if it stays on.

The fuse usually is placed in the hot feed to the panel. If you have a loose connection on either the hot feed to the panel, or the neutral return from the panel, either one can cause a huge overload.

You can determine whether it is the positive feed, or the negative return wire by using one leg of your jumper cable to the battery negative, and the other to the panel negative. If that keeps the fuse intact..it is the negative return with the bad connection.

To check the positive feed, connect one jumper cable leg to the 60A fuse, and the other to the positive on the panel.

Another good method of finding where there might be a loose hot spot causing the overload if it stays on for a while is to use your laser temperature sensor. Point it at the panel and the main positive and negative connectors at each end. If there is a loose spot, it will be very hot.

Hope this helps.

I have a 2004 W22/L18 PDF file if you want a copy. It is 55 pages long. It might help. Not sure how much change was made to the wiring Diagrams from 2004 to the year you have. I will try to send it to you.
Gary Han CT_Wanderer