Ye ole steering wander problem...

Correct:

5 degrees caster with a 1/4 degree or so more on right to compensate for road crown.

1/8" toe-in

goufgators wrote:
This question/comments is in regard to a 2017 Thor Freedom Elite 29FE. The problem is the old story of steering wander. I’ve had the wheels balanced and the front end aligned. I tried to get the alignment guy to set the alignment at 5 degrees toe in as I’ve heard that is good to help with the wandering problem. He refused to agree to that request. I’ve got the tires aired to comply with weight. So, after doing all the above, the wandering problem still exists. Question for those of you who have put add-ons such as steer safe or trac bars, what did you add that made an appreciable difference? I’d like to know your opinions re: add-ons before I venture down that road. (I’ll also add this post to the Class C forum)

5 degrees of toe in on 32" diameter tires is 2.8" of toe in.
You alignment guy was correct in not doing what you ask.
I believe what you wanted was 5 degrees of caster. So you confused the issue. I suggest 3/32" to 1/8" total toe in, or 0.20 to 0.25 degrees of toe in.

Richard

The other thing I added is a Blue-ox Tru-Center.. (Steering stabilizer)

I choose it because I can "re-center" from the driver's seat, No need for a wrench, or hammer, Or even getting out of the chair.

Safe-T-Steer now offers that as an option as well.

The big problem with class A's is NOT steering wander but "Wag" I am old enough to remember when they first came out with "independent Front Suspension" on pick up trucks.. Before that Pick ups had solid front axle like a motor home..

What is the advantage?
Leaf springs allow the vehicle to move up and down relative to the axle, of course, but what most folks do not know is they also allow it to move SIDE TO SIDE.

Now imagine the rear moves right while the front moves left. then they swap, the front moving right while the rear moves left.. Kind of like a dog's tail wagging.

This is WAG

How do you fix it: Track bars.. I am told that a REAR track bar (on your ford I'd go with ultra power's) is most effective but I put a Davis on the front of my gasser (Workhorse) and .. Well. very effective. I may do the UP later on the rear.

These "Lock" the body in position, side to side wise. Very effective.

Goufgaters, you should get a number of comments from the C group but, since you have a Class C instead of an A and since you posted here too, I'll throw in my experience. We owned a Winnebago Aspect 23D for over 10 years and worked on the handling characteristics considerably. It sounds like you've tried a number of "fist things" like air pressure and alignment. Unfortunately, getting an alignment shop to take your caster to 5+ degrees (I assume you told them 5 degrees caster-not toe) is critical in getting the E-series van chassis to handle. It is not a difficult procedure for a shop to do if they are willing to use an adjustable caster bushing. This is not a standard Ford item so perhaps, that is why they were reluctant but, my suggestion is to find a shop who will do the alignment you request. I also put an additional 1/8" of positive toe and close to zero camber on our E-450. Those settings for me provided the best result in our situation.

The Ingalls bushing (and others available at NAPA, Autozone, etc) make this job simple.



Unless you get the caster where almost all who have worked with the E-series chassis in a motorhome environment suggest, you will be chasing handling with fixes that will have minimal impact in my opinion.

Is the front axle loaded close to the maximum axle weight when you travel? If it is too light it tends to aggravate the wandering.

Yep had the same problem with our class C. Roadmaster Reflex steering stabilizer. Made a huge difference.