Satellite TV on all tv's

I have been able to successfully run separate satellite feeds from the dish to two tvs in my fiver by using the satellite prep to main tv (TV 1), no problem. To TV 2, I use the cable prep receptacle on the outside. In my fiver, this receptacle runs to a splitter that is tucked inside the wall behind the rvs antenna booster plate. I removed the booster from the wall, pulled on the wires and out came the splitter that runs to all coax outlets. I identified the cable in coax and the coax that feeds the tv 2 location. Using a barrel connector, I connected these two coax wires hence bypassing the rv antenna booster circuit and now sending a continuous coax feed from the cable in receptacle to the TV 2 location. I hope this makes sense.
The key for me was that on my rig all coax cables meet at a splitter behind my booster. From here I could redirect the coax wires as needed.

wa8yxm wrote:
There are two antenna switches used in RV's. one is a wall plate, it, normally, has a 12 volt outlet, a Switch an LED and an antenna connection. If you have this you can do it two ways.

The other has many buttons, and many connectors on the back. Even better.

Satellie receivers come, now days, in 3 flavors
Some (Vip211K) have a COAX out on the back (Antenna type connector) this feeds the SAT in on the box of many buttons (Read on for the wall plate).

Some (No example) have only A/V and HDMI (I think the vip211Z is in this group but not sure).. Some only have HDIM

In the last two cases you can feed the A/V to a device called a modulator.. The good news is there is one built into the box of many buttons (CD-IN) and you can use it by adding a simple A/B video switch from any electronics place or even.. Well I have a few here i got at Big-Lots. or you can buy a modulator for aeround 25 dollars.

If you only have HDMI, its about a hundred bucks for the modulator.

Feed the modulator out to the SAT in on the box of many buttons. job done.

Wall plate:
There are now two types of thes. both work the same way.. I described the most common, I have the least common (Sensor Pro from Winegard) this has two digital displays, 3 buttons and a row (Column actually) of LED's.. Many nice over the air functions.

Both of these have one A/B function normally Antenna (If they are turned on) and CABLE (if they are off, note Sensar pro turns the display off after a time out,,, The unit remains active however).

On the back of these are 3 or 4 connections

Antenna (Batwing up on roof)
Park cable
TV 2
TV 1 (on the more common one TV 1 is the frount outlet on the PRO it's on the back and clearly labeled)

Optional TV3

With the 12 volt outlet at the top of the standard wall plate, looking from the rear, I listed them left to right.

Disconnect the CABLE and route it to an A/B A = Analog (Cable) B=Binary (Sat receiver out, or modulator out)

If the receiver or the modulator has pass through it's even easier

Route the original park cable (you will need to extend it) to the ANT-IN and the OUT back to the wall plate.

Doing this you can:

Watch OVER THE AIR TV (Set switches properly)
Cable (if the park offers) just reset the switches
SAT. (likewise) on all TV.s

Understood (not really -- I'm just a plumber), but you still can only watch one channel at a time, correct? So the kids in the bunk house wanting to watch Cartoon Network and I, outside under the awning wanting to watch The History Channel, can't be done, correct? Is there a more simple way to use multiple receivers than the way I did it? I'm not being argumentative, I'm just really interested.

Bruce

There are two antenna switches used in RV's. one is a wall plate, it, normally, has a 12 volt outlet, a Switch an LED and an antenna connection. If you have this you can do it two ways.

The other has many buttons, and many connectors on the back. Even better.

Satellie receivers come, now days, in 3 flavors
Some (Vip211K) have a COAX out on the back (Antenna type connector) this feeds the SAT in on the box of many buttons (Read on for the wall plate).

Some (No example) have only A/V and HDMI (I think the vip211Z is in this group but not sure).. Some only have HDIM

In the last two cases you can feed the A/V to a device called a modulator.. The good news is there is one built into the box of many buttons (CD-IN) and you can use it by adding a simple A/B video switch from any electronics place or even.. Well I have a few here i got at Big-Lots. or you can buy a modulator for aeround 25 dollars.

If you only have HDMI, its about a hundred bucks for the modulator.

Feed the modulator out to the SAT in on the box of many buttons. job done.

Wall plate:
There are now two types of thes. both work the same way.. I described the most common, I have the least common (Sensor Pro from Winegard) this has two digital displays, 3 buttons and a row (Column actually) of LED's.. Many nice over the air functions.

Both of these have one A/B function normally Antenna (If they are turned on) and CABLE (if they are off, note Sensar pro turns the display off after a time out,,, The unit remains active however).

On the back of these are 3 or 4 connections

Antenna (Batwing up on roof)
Park cable
TV 2
TV 1 (on the more common one TV 1 is the frount outlet on the PRO it's on the back and clearly labeled)

Optional TV3

With the 12 volt outlet at the top of the standard wall plate, looking from the rear, I listed them left to right.

Disconnect the CABLE and route it to an A/B A = Analog (Cable) B=Binary (Sat receiver out, or modulator out)

If the receiver or the modulator has pass through it's even easier

Route the original park cable (you will need to extend it) to the ANT-IN and the OUT back to the wall plate.

Doing this you can:

Watch OVER THE AIR TV (Set switches properly)
Cable (if the park offers) just reset the switches
SAT. (likewise) on all TV.s

We had Sats2Go in Houston TX set ours up. He put in a diplexer in the front to split the signal, ran that to the Winegard switch box, then added a diplexer in the cabinet before the receiver in the bedroom. I use the DirecTV remote and press the "input" key. Works great. Only took him and hour and a half and at a reasonable price. We had quotes of $800 and $1000 and they were going to run a cable along the top of the RV and drill a hole in the roof to run it to the receiver. Dave at Sats2Go is the satellite "guru" in my opinion.

Here's the link to the work-around I was talking about earlier.

Bruce

I had DirecTv wire my travel trailer just as they would if it were a house. The SAT connection on the outside above the CABLE connection runs through my trailer with no splitters to the TV cabinet/swivel in my bedroom/living room. In this cabinet is where my H25 receiver resides. There is a good bit of dead space in this wall which allowed for all of my other feeds to come together and connect to the splitter here, sight unseen. The power inserter was installed at the other end of my trailer in the bunk house where I have the DVR receiver. I also have a line that runs to where my TV hangs outside under the awning. I use my H25 receiver here if I want to watch outside. The wiring to get to the rear and to the side was done beneath the trailer, strapped to the frame. The installation by DirecTv cost me nothing.

When I get to my site, all I have to do is run a cable from the SAT connection on the outside to wherever I put my Slimline dish and once I'm tuned in I have HD DirecTv ready to go at four different locations.

I use the heavy duty tripod setup from www.tv4RV.com which makes setup a breeze.

Bruce

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/video-control-center-with-dvd-loop/56164

I use one like this for both TV's.

RV wiring has changed over the years as has the wiring coming from satellite receivers. New receivers are wired with an HDMI cable to the TV. RV manufacturers have generally not run HDMI around the units. This means you'll need a separate receiver at each TV (unless you want to run your own HDMI cable or a wireless version).

It is possible that one of the outside connections runs from "Sat Prep" to an outlet at your main TV, while the other runs to an outlet in the bedroom. You should be about to test where the external connections run with an ohm meter and temporarily connecting the center conductor to the braid.

If the connections run to the right places you won't need to run more wires. By using an appropriate splitter before the satellite receiver in the living room and connecting that through the wiring to "Sat Prep", then connecting that to connection going to the bedroom, you could then use a second receiver there.

If all this sounds like Greek, you'll probably need some local help figuring this out.

You will need to run separate satellite feeds to the other places you want unless you do the work-around at the antenna booster. Hopefully somebody can post a link to the work-around.

Bruce

Install a receiver and run coax from the main input to the other receivers.