I have this spectra 32" led tv from this thread. I decided not to use it in our trailer and instead put it in our den 2.5 years ago when we purchased it. It gets very little use.http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25929033/srt/pa/pging/1/page/1.cfmA month ago I unplugged the unit from the den and temporarily moved it out to the living room where I plugged it in and it worked fine. The next day I moved it back to the den and plugged it in and it would not work. I confirmed the outlet in the den is hot.I took the back off it today and spied the fuse shown in the pictures below. You can see the power cord connects right there to the circuit board near the fuse.I have the following questions I would appreciate some help on.- Is this fuse blown? I've never seen a fuse like this so I don't know what it should look like or if you can even tell if it's blown by just looking at it.- I take it this is a solder-in fuse? I'll need to pull the board, de-solder it and solder in a new one?- Capacitors on this board hold a charge? If so how long until it dissipates? The tv has been unplugged for 3 days.- Other safety precautions/advice?Thanks

looks like main input power fuseyes its soldered inthese caps have probably already lost most powerspreading it into the DC circuits when you tried to turn it onthis NOT the same as sticking your hand into the back of an OLD color CRT hi-voltage set updepending on soldering skills, you can just solder new fuse piggyback on the old oneremoving old fuse might need some solder sucker tool or ribbon

If you find a new fuse, just jumper clip in place to see if that is the problem, if so, then replace by whatever method you are comfortable with. From looking at replacement fuses on Amazon, Ebay, etc, the fuse does not appear to be a solder in place fuse, but a common fuse that fits into the soldered in place holders at each end of the fuse. Check that out.

That is a sand fuse These have a different characteristic than a open glass type), you would want to replace with the same style.I would not simply clip another fuse to this one for "testing", the proper way to test a fuse like this is by using the Ohm setting on a meter.You need to make sure the TV is unplugged and set your voltmeter to Ohms. Then place one lead on one side of the fuse and the other on the other side.Meter should show 1 or 2 ohms or less depending on the accuracy of the meter.If you get no reading at all then the fuse is blown and needs replaced.To replace the fuse I would suggest removing the old fuse by unsoldering it (the end caps are not holders but are welded to the fuse) and then soldering the new fuse in that place...

I've dealt with two of these. I just de-solder and remove them and then replace them with a fuse holder and a new fuse. What is strange is you observed nothing when it happened. I knew exactly what DW did when mine blew. Might not be the fuse but that is easily tested.

I cant see enough detail in the photos but I have seen those fuses.If you had the board out and can trace the traces odds are one end of that fuse connects to one side of the power inlet.. And nothing else with the possible exception of a small capacitor Replacement is easy if you know how.

TV stopped working, fuse blown? | Good Sam Community

Wrace
Explorer
Mar 30, 2014
Good idea wa8yxm, there's more than one way to skin a cat as they say.

I don't see any bulged caps.

I turned the power button on and found 12.68v at the two 12v terminals and 25.43v at the two 24v terminals on the white/blue ribbon cables going from the power board to the control board. You can see these in the photo below. If there is power here, one would have to assume the power board is good, yes?
wa8yxm
Explorer III
Mar 26, 2014
Took a 2nd look at the photos.. They used to make a special fuse clip that clipped over the existing fuse and let you clip a new one in very easily.

Or you can take two of the proper size single fuse fuse holders (Will link if I can) Click Here for an example

The one I linked to is likely the wrong size but you get two of them and lay them back to back, solder the tabs on each end together and snap one over the blown fuse, the good fuse snaps into the other (Glue them back to back).

NOTE: on this company's catalog page (Up one from the link) are dozens of different types of fuse holders.. If you are comfortable soldering on PC boards, switch to a set of clips you can easily snap a new fuse in instead of that soldered in junk.
Wrace
Explorer
Mar 26, 2014
Getting ahead of myself here but this looks to be the power board (part numbers match). Says it was repaired or refurbished.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sceptre-32-E325BV-HD-899-969-E001-LED-LCD-Power-Supply-Board-Unit-Motherboard-/161236602095?pt=US_TV_Boards_Parts_Components&hash=item258a734cef
Wrace
Explorer
Mar 26, 2014
One other thing. I have two digital multi-meters, one says it's for automotive use and one is general use. The probes on both of these seem a bit large for this type of work. Do they make smaller probe reducers that can be purchased? Maybe something that just attaches to the existing probe end?

Thanks
Wrace
Explorer
Mar 26, 2014
I tried to find an electrical diagram but to no avail. Found a 100+ page manual on the spectra site but it did not have any diagrams when I took a quick look through it.

Ok how about this idea...

Looking at the top of the power board in the picture below you can see three white/blue ribbon cables coming off the board and going to the right. All three of these go to the control board (I guess that's what it's called).

The connectors half way down the right side of the board go to the LED's.

And of course in the lower right corner is the ground wire, and black and white wires from the power cord.

In this close up you can see there looks to be 12V output on the nine wire ribbon cable and 24v output on the four wire ribbon cable.

If I plug the tv in, turn it on with hardware power button on the tv and probe either or both the 12v/24v terminals on those ribbon cables there should be 12 or 24v present if the power board is working??? This would verify if the power board was indeed bad?
Wrace
Explorer
Mar 25, 2014
garry1p wrote:
The failure may be in the standby components, did you try to turn on with the power on button on the TV?
Could be the remote.

Yes I did check the power button on the TV.
Wrace
Explorer
Mar 25, 2014
MrWizard wrote:
Did you remove the fuse
You could measure that value thru some other item on the the circuit,
Like a wire choke on the power input

Sorry for the delay, had to deal with a bit of a family emergency for several weeks there.

I didn't remove the fuse to check it, just used the ohm meter and checked it on the board. The fuse is attached to the fuse holder so I'd have to de-solder and remove the fuse/holder assembly.
garry1p
Explorer
Feb 10, 2014
I agree the fuse could be bad but with the low reading it is probably good.

Modern TV's really do not shut off but go into standby mode your meter may be back reading through another component. The failure may be in the standby components, did you try to turn on with the power on button on the TV?
Could be the remote.
MrWizard
Moderator
Feb 10, 2014
Did you remove the fuse
You could measure that value thru some other item on the the circuit,
Like a wire choke on the power input
1492
Moderator
Feb 09, 2014
If you do determine its power supply related, then in may actually be easier to replace the entire board in your photo. About $40.+ on Ebay.

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TV stopped working, fuse blown?

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