Best type of torque wrench

TXiceman wrote:
To make the wrench more accurate for a longer time, be sure and relieve the tension by setting it back to zero. The beam types are cheaper but a pain to use.

Ken

Yes, definitely, return the wrench to its lowest setting (not necessarily "zero", it might be 5 or 10 ft. lbs), but never turn it BELOW the lowest setting! Remember, you have an item of Precision Measuring Equipment here. It is a good idea, as always, to READ and FOLLOW the instructions!

Beam style are nice but you have to make sure nothing ever bends the needle. I prefer clicker and actually for wheels I use a cheap harbor freight. The idea is to get close to the TQ spec and evenly on all lugs. I have a very high dollar one from snap-on for my engine work on the race car where those specs are critical.

pitch wrote:
I like the beam type. Simple accurate design. If doing real critical work the clicker is probably better. Funny how things have changed over the years. While they always had a torque value assigned, lugnuts were always tightened to "Good Enough", nowadays seems every thing has to be precise.

True this. Back in ye old Impecision age, A good pulling on the wrench was all that was needed.
In a former life, I turned wrench for a living so have a fairly good torque wrench built into my arms (accurate to +,- 10 lbs. in larger PSI, I've checked). With steel rims, the arms are still good enough. On cars with expensive aluminum rims like the ones on my BMW, I use a torque wrench.

I prefer the click stop and also have a beam type that I don't use anymore. HF has a click stop that is plenty adequate for lug nuts.

Thank you for your input. I plan to use it for tires, mounting 5th wheel and wherever one is needed.

I like the beam type. Simple accurate design. If doing real critical work the clicker is probably better. Funny how things have changed over the years. While they always had a torque value assigned, lugnuts were always tightened to "Good Enough", nowadays seems every thing has to be precise.

I have a clicker type and a beam type. I almost always grab the clicker because it is simpler to use. With the beam type you must hold it at an angle that you can see the pointer while using.

All in all I think the beam type is a more reliable less expensive tool for those that will rarely use one. The clicker type will cost more for a reliable, accurate tool.

Before you buy an expensive one; find out where it's made first. Also see if it even has the brand name on it.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_1304_torque_wrench_testing/

And your torqueing what???

I got a pointer gauge type for general auto stuff. Can see what torque was when undoing bolts with this type, I think about $30.00

For lug nuts I've got a 3/4 drive harbor freight special. My lug nuts have a torque of 130-160 so Ford wasn't to exact, so I'm not to exact. Am surprised how accurate Harbor freight wrench is. Thought it would be all over the place. When I get tires rotated on any of our 3 vehicles I take the clicker type Harbor freight special with me and "re-check" what the tire dealers torqued lug nuts to. Cheapie Harbor freight torque wrench as been accurate every time so far and tire dealer spends a lot of $$ to keep his "certified" because of liability reasons.

The click type can be used without any visual observation. That sometimes becomes important, depending on the location of the fastener.