Charging Battery?

Yes, it at best may have lost some capacity. At worst it may need replacement.

Why not consider a modest solar system for storage charging?

JohnG4706 wrote:


It's a brand new battery. Have I damaged it?


Thanks.

If you don't put the battery back on your camper and then hook up to your tow vehicle you will probably have at least one 'hot' lead that was originally connected to the battery. This is the line that brings a charge from your tow vehicle to the battery. So make sure to use some electrical tape and tape up the connection on the end of the cable really good or you could start blowing fuses.

Yes the battery is damaged and has lost capacity. Charge it up immediately and hope for the best. You need to keep lead-acid fully charged. Battery must have a float charge or disconnect to prevent discharge.

Battery Tender Plus is 1.25 amps? You will need a week to get a charge. If you have not opened the charger take it back and get a 10+ amp automatic charger and leave it on overnight. Very low and you may need to jump start the charging with a second battery.

Yes the tv should power all those items. However they often have a separate connection so if you remove the battery it may disconnect those items. Best to have a battery when towing so the break away brake system is functioning.

Oops! I went out to the storage yard today and the battery was dead. No lights, etc. I ordered the Battery Tender Plus last week and is due this week. I'll remove the battery and bring it home and will recharge it on my lanai next week.

It's a brand new battery. Have I damaged it?

Tuesday, I will take the trailer in for some warranty work. If I hook up the power cord to my SUV, will I be able to raise the electric stabilizers and use the electric tongue jack? Or, do I need to recharge the battery first or have to do manually?

I also ordered the Marinco 701 Battery Disconnect and will mount it on top of the battery box. I saw how much work there was in removing the nylon belt and the snap top to get to a disconnect if I mounted inside the box on the battery.

You guys are great with all of your comments and suggestions.

Thanks.

Good idea to find out if the battery is still good. They only last 5 years or so at best and draining below 50% shortens the life every time.

That voltage chart shown in one of the posts is very useful but it only works when there has been no charging for more than 8 hours. The voltage normally is artificially high for hours after charging. I have a half amp battery maintainer on one of my vehicles and the battery voltage is over 14 after I disconnect it.

I would start with a voltmeter to check the charging. When connected to shore power or to the truck with engine running, the voltage at the battery should be over 14 for useful charging.

When I used to pull my boat batteries, I would use masking tape and wrap all the negative wires into a bundle, then do the same with the positive wires. I used a black marker to write 'pos' and 'neg' on the tape (or + and -) before I started wrapping the bundles. You could even use a red marker on the positive wires and a black marker on the negative bunch to be even more clear.

I used masking tape because it was easy to write on, it was easy to rip open when I was ready to reattach all the wires and also because it leaves little or no residual stickiness.

Take the battery home and buy a minimum 10 amp charger and charge the battery up (that will take a couple of days). Then take to your Pep Boys, NAPA or auto battery shop etc and have them do a load test to see if the battery is OK. If OK take it home and store it until you are ready to camp.

Hint: take a picture on the battery hooked before you remove it from the RV so that you know where each cable attaches to the battery.

I have the unisolar 136 watt panel. I like it because I didn't have to mount it to a frame, it is flexible and has a peel and stick backing. Very easy. Now we don't even bother taking the generator camping.

I just ordered enough LEDs to replace all the interior lights for $14 on ebay and will have to worry even less about electricity. Even on a cloudy day in the trees we can bring the battery to a full charge.

Unisolar is out of business but the panels are still available but I don't imagine you will get warranty work done. Renegy is still in business and has flexible panels as well but I would definitely recommend some kind of solar. It is very nice not to have to worry about disconnecting the battery if you leave the trailer for a while or even worrying if the kids leave the light on in the bathroom. It's all taken care of. Also with the Morningstar MPPT charge controller you know you will get the longest life out of your battery.

The only complaint is the Morningstar MPPT controller makes a very annoying high pitch tone sometimes so I am going to mount it inside a cabinet.

smkettner wrote:
For the effort it is not much extra to just get 100 watt panel and mount it on the roof. Also need a controller.

Forget that 6w toy. It may work in Summer but good luck in winter.

6w might charge a cell phone but not much more. On Amazon I found 100w panel, 30a controller, mtg hdw & cables for $169.00. 5+a should recharge your batt somewhat if you are in full sun.

For the effort it is not much extra to just get 100 watt panel and mount it on the roof. Also need a controller.

Forget that 6w toy. It may work in Summer but good luck in winter.