Question about weight ratings
Still trying to figure out payload and towing capacity for my truck. (2016 F-250 Diesel). I plan on going to a scale and getting an exact weight of my truck. However, I am not sure what to subtract...
Forum Discussion
Sound guy, you're right, partly, and thanks for picking up on my leaving the "R" out of GVW in my statement.
I could say the same, as gvw is whatever the vehicle weighs at a given point, whether it's overloaded, over its gvwr, or not.
GVW is a condition, gvwr is a rating or, and I'll use the term loosely, reccomendation.
Never the less, as you appear to be running for president of the rvnet weight police society, I'll maintain gvwR is a rating that is loosely based on a general vehicle capacity for a given class of vehicles.
Depending on the particular condtion a and vehicle, it may or may not represent anywhere near the real world or even engineered capacity of that particular vehicle.
Those that don't believe this are either not well read or experienced with vehicles' capacities and choose to follow the strictest number they can find for peace of mind or increased factor of safety, or are simply antagonistic.
I'll use an example of rated construction rigging. OSHA or some other agency mandated that ALL rigging be rated for 1/5 of its demonstrated yield strength or a 5:1 factor of safety. Presumably this was done to try to engineer out the dumb arse factor in construction where light bulbs get used as anvils by some!
So on the job, if I have a particular piece of rigging that is rated for 10klbs straight pull I legally cannot go over that. Per OSHA it Wisha standards here.
In real life I could hook up to 50k to that same piece without issue.
Understanding and prudence will go a long ways towards determining what is "safe" and what level of risk is acceptable.
Me, I'll live on the edge, hauling 4klbs in my 10klb gvwR truck bed because I know the frame and chassis is the same as a comparable 14klb gvwR truck and that the axle is rated upwards of 10klbs, combined with what I've done to increase load carrying capability and safety of the vehicle. Beats spending big bucks to get the same truck with a different sticker saying it's ok.
I could say the same, as gvw is whatever the vehicle weighs at a given point, whether it's overloaded, over its gvwr, or not.
GVW is a condition, gvwr is a rating or, and I'll use the term loosely, reccomendation.
Never the less, as you appear to be running for president of the rvnet weight police society, I'll maintain gvwR is a rating that is loosely based on a general vehicle capacity for a given class of vehicles.
Depending on the particular condtion a and vehicle, it may or may not represent anywhere near the real world or even engineered capacity of that particular vehicle.
Those that don't believe this are either not well read or experienced with vehicles' capacities and choose to follow the strictest number they can find for peace of mind or increased factor of safety, or are simply antagonistic.
I'll use an example of rated construction rigging. OSHA or some other agency mandated that ALL rigging be rated for 1/5 of its demonstrated yield strength or a 5:1 factor of safety. Presumably this was done to try to engineer out the dumb arse factor in construction where light bulbs get used as anvils by some!
So on the job, if I have a particular piece of rigging that is rated for 10klbs straight pull I legally cannot go over that. Per OSHA it Wisha standards here.
In real life I could hook up to 50k to that same piece without issue.
Understanding and prudence will go a long ways towards determining what is "safe" and what level of risk is acceptable.
Me, I'll live on the edge, hauling 4klbs in my 10klb gvwR truck bed because I know the frame and chassis is the same as a comparable 14klb gvwR truck and that the axle is rated upwards of 10klbs, combined with what I've done to increase load carrying capability and safety of the vehicle. Beats spending big bucks to get the same truck with a different sticker saying it's ok.
