I have done some reading through the forums on this site and I have found that there is a very solid base of people here who really seem to know what they are talking about. So I would like to put forward this question to you. Especially those of you who have lived in an RV year round before through the four seasons. My situation: Soon I will be looking at an extended stay in Maine. Approximately 5 to 6 years. Enough time to finish my Masters degree. My family does not have enough room for me in the house. However they do have a huge yard. I have talked to the local town office, ( code enforcement ect) and they understand me and my families situation. They have agreed to allow me to do one of two things. I can either park an RV and use that year round or I can build a cottage like building up to 12' x 24' maximum. The cottage cannot have a bathroom or kitchen. Bedroom and study area only. The walk from the front door of the RV or cottage, to the front door of the house will be about 30 feet. I can insulate and heat the RV or cottage any way I like. However my family is not comfortable with me trying to use water or toilet in the winter. They believe the use of heat tape would add too much to there electrical bill, when added to the electrical consumption of the rest of the RV. Not going to argue that point with them considering they are gracious enough to allow me to use there yard rent free. My budget is ten thousand dollars. That is what my credit union has approved me for and I feel that I can afford easily enough, while still allowing me to pay for college, as well as contributing to my families house for bills and buying my own food. Plus allow me enough to put some in to the bank each week for occasions and emergencies. My questions:1. For those whom have stayed in an RV year round before, through the cold winters and hot summers. If given my choices, would you try to live in an RV or insulated, heated cottage for the coming 5 to 6 years? Keep in mind I have complete use of the houses' kitchen and bathroom. 2. Maine winter temperatures vary but generally in the area I will be in it tends to stay between 10 to 25 degrees. With occasions where for nights it can stay around zero degrees. Will I be burning through a lot of propane in an RV to stay comfortably warm? Say around 65 degrees? By a lot I mean a 20 pound tank every week. For insulation on the RV I was planning on a skirting of painted plywood with foam insulation backing.3. Is the condensation in an RV worse over time? Meaning after two or three years could I be looking at a mold or mildew problem even if I use a dehumidifier? Does the dehumidifier need to run all the time or only while I'm in it?4. Do the floors of the RV get really cold in the winters? Enough so I would be wanting to keep my feet off the floors? The used RV's I've been looking at would have vent forced hot air in the floors.5. Is there a lot of up keep with living in a trailer year round through all four seasons? I know in the winter I will be needing to shovel the roof off but besides that. I've never owned an RV before so I truly am clueless about them.6. Speaking of clueless. Can you even live in an RV full time year round for up to six years? Not sure if they are even made to stand up to that. Thank you in advance to any offered advice.

Not all RVs are built the same way. The cheaper ones have less insulation while some of the higher priced ones get more insulation. You could be looking at a 20# propane tank every other night. Bales of straw around the edges give a little more help than aluminum skirting. Unless you get dual pane windows (slim chance) you are going to have condensation and need the dehumidifier a lot. If water and holding tanks are outside they will freeze!! That is where they usually are on TTs.

TJ207 wrote:2. Maine winter temperatures vary but generally in the area I will be in it tends to stay between 10 to 25 degrees. With occasions where for nights it can stay around zero degrees. Will I be burning through a lot of propane in an RV to stay comfortably warm? Say around 65 degrees? By a lot I mean a 20 pound tank every week. For insulation on the RV I was planning on a skirting of painted plywood with foam insulation backing.At temps like those you could go through a 20lb cylinder in a day. I can't speak for all RVers but I spent a winter in Amarillo TX in my 5th wheel. The local propane company provide a large external tank which they plumbed directly to the RV and had to refill several times that season. Fortunately, I was workamping and the RV park picked up the tab for that. Do you have any other options? Don't most college towns have a lot of apartments/houses for roommate arrangements?

Even experienced RVers have to take careful steps in understanding how to set up for extreme temps/conditions... and often fail, mitigate the damages, research and implement the solutions. There is a big learning curve with what you are contemplating. I think you should stick to your studies by moving in with roommates on or close to campus (so you won't even need to pay for a car) and leave the rest to those who have the time to dedicate to the learning curve of extreme RVing. I'm really sorry to have not answered your questions but the questions, themselves, would have to be dissected into manageable pieces to even begin to provide answers. For example, just "needing to shovel the roof off" is a can of worms where one little mistake can be a fairly big problem.

I lived in a 30 foot fifth wheel year round for three years (1999 to 2001) while working in Northern Utah.My RV was parked at a mobile home park so that made some things simple.The coach was bought brand new for this purpose it was a KIT Espre 294f with 14 foot slide out.My trailer was set on handjacks under the frame so it was solid on concrete.I kept the tires covered, yet they still had to be replaced before the trailer was moved.Winter temps in single digits were doable.I did go thru 100 gallon tank of propane monthly however.Stayed pretty comfortable actually.Condensation even with one person inside was a problem in Winter.A small dehumidifier solved that.I did have an air leak under the entry door that I fought with.Finally found the right door seal to stop that.When temps are zero in a 15 to 20 mph wind you will feel the air thru a pin hole.I lost 2 water heaters due to hard water and constant use.The water heater was propane only so the pilot light was going 24\7The water bib to the trailer froze solid and ice crawled down the pipe into the ground the first winter I was in the fiver.A friend brought a generator welder over to cherry the pipe and get water flowing.We got bags of cow manure to stack over the water line to keep it warm after that no problems.Warm weather was of course no issue except when the heat got bad say hi 80's the AC cycled constantly and dried me out so to speak.Dis-cluding rent for the space I think I spent on average $80-$100 a month for propane, water and electricity.I rented a propane tank and bought gas from a jobber.That was the cheapest way for me to go.A hundred gallons would last over six months in weather above 45 degrees.Winter of course was a different story.Other than a few minor things I enjoyed living fulltime in my 30 footer. The trailer did very well, as a matter of fact we just sold it in April.Any questions just PM or post!Regards and good luck!

We have a well insulated motorhome with dual pane windows and would not attempt what you are talking about. We spent the past 2 winters in central Alabama where the lowest temp was 26 but most times above freezing and mid fifties during the day. We went thru a lot of propane and electricity (little electric heater) in Jan and Feb. We are heading further south this winter. I'd go for the insulated, heated cottage.

Questions for those who have lived in an RV 4 seasons.

19 Replies

2gypsies1
Explorer III
Aug 04, 2013
Your plan is excellent! Best of luck to you with your studies and your future!!
TJ207
Explorer
Aug 04, 2013
Thank you all for your responses. Obviously asking for all of your input and drawing upon this communities experiences has been a very valuable.

I am going with the cottage. In the time that I posted this I have done a great deal more research and I am now very much looking forward to being in the cottage. Going to be 12'x24' with a wood stove, with R60 attic, R38 walls and R30 floor insulation. The total of the added tax bill to the property will only be $30 a year. I'm not looking forward to the walks from the cottage to the house for the bathroom but heck I figure if my for-fathers survived walking to the cold out house for centuries I can easily survive walking a short distance to a heated bathroom.

As far as the 5-6 years to finish my Masters Degree. I am not attending full time, because I still wish to work full time. Three to five courses per semester.

Again thank you all for your input. You have helped me more then may ever know. I wish you all happiness in your lifes journeys and hey who knows, maybe ten years from now I might be back. Having finished college, owning an RV but for Recreational use.
WeBeFulltimers
Explorer
Aug 04, 2013
Response from "resmas" makes very good sense to me. I would NEVER try to winter in an RV of your budget in Maine for 1 winter let alone 5-6. You could never get comfortable enough to properly study.

If you do decide to try an RV, DO NOT stack bales of straw as wind barrier. Imagine a fire and you inside!
Opie431
Explorer
Aug 03, 2013
Have two electric blankets, one for the bed and one to wrap around yourself as you sit and watch TV, etc. For the bed, some people like the ones you sleep on.
westend
Explorer
Aug 02, 2013
There is a chance that you would be miserable in an average RV through a Maine Winter. Even with extraordinary insulating measures, a conventional RV furnace will be costly and inefficient. Trying to keep the plumbing operational with the existing infrastructure of the property would be a fool's errand.
I doubt you can accomplish it with $10K but I would build a garage/shop and outfit it with good insulation and in-floor radiant heat. The water for the heating system can be heated with a variety of fuel boilers or a good gas water heater. A Porta-Potty or composting toilet could take care of waste. It may also behoove you to have the structure plumbed. A regular toilet, shower, and sink could be added also. Your budget will dictate how many amenities are implemented but maybe some can be added along the course of your stint.
Grit_dog
Trailblazer
Aug 02, 2013
2gypsies wrote:
If your parents are concerned about the cost of using heat tape then you need to really consider how you're going to pay for heat in either the cottage or the RV. Propane for the RV will be very expensive because of the cold conditions no matter what you do to try and insulate it better. No matter how good a RV in insulated it will never be enough for freezing temperatures. Also, have you thought out a plan for dumping of the holding tanks?

I think building the 'cottage' would be much better as to keeping the place warm. You can heavily insulate it. A wood stove would be ideal heat. If you heat by electric it would be expensive. Buying an RV is going to cost you plenty and you could put that money into the cottage. Would your parents be able to utilize the cottage after you leave? If so, perhaps they could help with building it since it will be a part of their property.

Another thought - instead of a separate cottage, can an extra room just be built onto the existing house? Then it could really be utilized nicely when you leave.

...just some more things to think about. Good luck!

This^.
5-6 years and you don't have the benefit of using the kitchen or bath. (which would require many upgrades to the camper anyway to use year 'round in that climate for that length of time, not to mention heating cost of the ccamper and hot water, how do you keep water to the camper, more heat tape, etc etc)
Ditch the RV plan and build a cottage or addition on the house provided you have the skills and tools. Either one will be considered an upgrade to the property at the end. Cottage can be a guest house or gut it out and make it a shed/shop.
Think about what you would need to do to permit (if needed) this from structure foundation and electrical requirements first. That could result in alot of cost if you had to do a permanent foundation.
If the option of an addition to the house is out and you're building a cottage I'd look into whether you can set it on piers or not. A floating slab is the next cheapest option but will have cold floors. Putting in frost wall to ME requirements, probably 48" deep will eat up alot of your budget right there.
See if you can put it on some drilled conc piers then you dont ever have to worry about frost heaves. Other wise, compact a goos gravel base under separate conc deck/shed blocks and use a bunch of them to distribute the load.
The structure can be a simple 12x24 gable building. Use 2x6 walls and at least 2x8 floor and ceiling joists or rafters if going cathedral ceiling evenif not structurally required, just for the insulation value.
Couple good windows and a good door and you'll be plenty insulated.
Make it 2 rooms witha knock down wall in the middle so its more like a house but the ability to remove it to make a shop later. Header out the door opening to allow for a shop/garage door later and frame it down to only an entry door for your purposes.
Finishes interior and exterior can get spendy but look for durable and rustic (your in ME not FL!).
Put a little wood burner in it and spend a couple hundo on a used chainsaw and your heat will be free and warm!
If you can't leave it on the property when youre done, then make the structure stout enuff to be able to be jacked up and loaded on a trailer. Then you can sell it as a hunting cabin.
resmas
Explorer
Aug 02, 2013
I would go with a "cottage". The 12x24 size is readily available at most shed dealers. It can be moved and placed where you want it in the yard. Insulate it well, and it will easily hold room temperature with a small, efficient space heater. You could hardwire it into the house fairly easily, or just run a few extension cords...

Like another poster said, you can use a portable toilet.

Since you have access to the kitchen in the house, you shouldn't need any electrical appliances in the cottage that draw a lot of power. Maybe a small dorm fridge and small microwave???

In 5-6 years, when you are done with the shed, you can sell it, and recoup most of your costs. You can't always do that with an RV, as they depreciate very fast.

I have a 8x10 chicken coop that is partially insulated, and an 11x11 tack room that is floor to ceiling insulated. Both are heated in the winter - coop with a heat lamp, and tack room with an oil-filled heater. Both stay toasty warm. Spoiled chickens and barn cats, I know...
wannavolunteerF
Explorer
Aug 02, 2013
If you build the cottage, you can always get a portable toilet that you can dump every couple of days into the house toilet. you can curtain off a corner or build a closet for it, just don't put it in until the building inspector has done his job.

Several years ago, I had a lot in Florida that we used as a base for fishing. Until we had $$$$ to build a real dwelling there, we had a large wood storage building put on lot and used porta-potti in curtained off corner. With electricity, we set it up basically as a efficiency apt except for plumbing. Eventually we had well dug and then had water outside. Sold it before we got any further.
insp1505
Explorer
Aug 02, 2013
First off a 5-6 year masters degree??? What are you studying. I thought I was in school a long time and I have the monster debt to prove it but I can't imagine how much yours is gonna cost. Good luck and I hope you get a really good job when you're done. Here are my experiences and answers to your questions. Hope it helps.

TJ207 wrote:

My questions:
1. For those whom have stayed in an RV year round before, through the cold winters and hot summers. If given my choices, would you try to live in an RV or insulated, heated cottage for the coming 5 to 6 years? Keep in mind I have complete use of the houses' kitchen and bathroom.

I lived in an Arctic Fox 1150 truck camper in Idaho for 2.5 years. I went through some very cold spells like -20F lows with highs that didn't get above 0 for many many days in a row. It goes below freezing at some point usually in December and it is generally a couple months before the daily high gets back above 32 F so for a couple of months straight my RV stayed below freezing temperatures and did just fine. I wouldn't try it in any other RV though as I did some pretty nice modifications to be able to do this. There are other people around here that do it but I've heard some bad stories about how it didn't work out so well when it gets well below 0. I only hope my new camper does half as well but I'm not planning on living in it through the winter either. Down to the single digits overnight is fine but I'm not going camping if the forecast is below 0.

The key is to have the smallest RV that you can stand with the best insulation possible, many people try to do it in large TT, 5th wheels or motorhomes and the heat energy input can't keep up with the heat loss. It's just too large of a space to keep warm, that's why you see so many of these big RV's follow the warm weather south in the winter. The right truck camper on the other hand can keep you nice and cozy through some awfully cold temperatures because there is less space to heat and some have furnaces larger than many trailer type RV's.

I know you probably don't have the budget for a truck and truck camper or even want one for that matter so if I had the choice between the cottage and a travel trailer I'd build the cottage. Choice between a cottage and my last truck camper I'd take the camper so I could go camping with it too. The cottage you can build in some nice insulation and even a fireplace as mentioned above.

It doesn't sound like you need to go anywhere in an RV like I did so having the mobility of an RV is a non-issue. I'd build the cabin if that was the case except for the fact that I like to have my own toilet and bathing facilities so if they wouldn't let me build that into a cottage I'd find an Arctic Fox. I'd rather not get up in the middle of the night get all dressed find my snow boots and run into the house in freezing temps but you may have a larger bladder than I do.

You mention heat tape and I assume that would be to keep the city water hose from freezing? Forget that idea in the winter, what ever RV you get better have heated and enclosed tanks and that's what you need to be using. Fill up the fresh tank! Someone brought up the idea of dumping tanks, that can be a hassle in the winter if you have to travel to an offsite facility especially while towing a trailer. Make sure to have plans for this. There are companies that will pump your RV septic for a charge but you better check on winter availability if you need it.

2. Maine winter temperatures vary but generally in the area I will be in it tends to stay between 10 to 25 degrees. With occasions where for nights it can stay around zero degrees. Will I be burning through a lot of propane in an RV to stay comfortably warm? Say around 65 degrees? By a lot I mean a 20 pound tank every week. For insulation on the RV I was planning on a skirting of painted plywood with foam insulation backing.

I'd really recommend getting an electric heater to supplement the propane usage. The propane will get expensive and you'll use more than 20 pounds in a week during the winter. I used a 30 pound tank over 3 days & 2 nights at about 0 degree overnight temps. It will give your furnace a break too so it's not running non-stop. You could offer to pay the whole electric bill since it doesn't sound like they are charging you rent to stay there. That way they couldn't complain about your usage and you'd be pitching in. It would still be a lot cheaper than RV park or apartment rent I'm sure.

Once again if you are skirting the RV and using the onboard water facilities do you have a plan for dumping the tanks? My truck camper didn't need skirting to keep the basement warm so I was able to drive off without any extra hassle of removing skirting.

3. Is the condensation in an RV worse over time? Meaning after two or three years could I be looking at a mold or mildew problem even if I use a dehumidifier? Does the dehumidifier need to run all the time or only while I'm in it?

You can get mildew & mold after the first day so you have to stay ahead of it. I found it was worst under the mattress because of body moisture from sleeping. I had to raise the mattress every morning and support it so air could circulate underneath throughout the day to prevent mildew and mold. I bought a dehumidifier but never really used it as the rest of the camper did fine by cracking the vent over the bed and in the bathroom and keeping the temperature inside near 70. You have to run an exhaust fan while showering and cooking or the moisture will get out of hand quickly.

4. Do the floors of the RV get really cold in the winters? Enough so I would be wanting to keep my feet off the floors? The used RV's I've been looking at would have vent forced hot air in the floors.

You better be getting a 4 season model with a heated enclosed basement. In that case the heat in the basement keeping the tanks from freezing should radiate back up through the floor keeping it warmer than a non-basement model. I know this principle worked excellent in my truck camper as the walkable floor was completely above the basement space but I'm not terribly familiar with basement construction of trailer RV's so there could be some cold zones if they don't heat the whole underside of the trailer but rather only the area of the tanks.

5. Is there a lot of up keep with living in a trailer year round through all four seasons? I know in the winter I will be needing to shovel the roof off but besides that. I've never owned an RV before so I truly am clueless about them.

You'll want to stay up on the exterior seams and caulking so no water penetrates the roof or walls and ruins the RV.

If it has AC get a cover for it in the winter to protect it from snow and ice intrusion.

Do Not use a shovel on the roof! You are asking for tears and damage. I use a push broom and sweep it off. You'll find that if the interior is warm enough heat will be lost through the roof so that it is generally slushy anyways. For the really cold day when it's ice just push off the snow if it gets too deep. I never worried about it unless I was going to drive somewhere because Arctic Fox built their roofs so strong they put something like 30 employees on it and took a picture to prove it. There would have to be a lot of snow to equal that much weight. I only swept as a courtesy to other drivers if I went somewhere to keep the snow from blowing off in big chunks and hitting them as I drove down the road.

6. Speaking of clueless. Can you even live in an RV full time year round for up to six years? Not sure if they are even made to stand up to that.

You could in an Arctic Fox. I'm sure there are others that you could as well. And I'm sure there are many that you couldn't.

Thank you in advance to any offered advice.

You're welcome and good luck with your decision.
2gypsies1
Explorer III
Aug 01, 2013
If your parents are concerned about the cost of using heat tape then you need to really consider how you're going to pay for heat in either the cottage or the RV. Propane for the RV will be very expensive because of the cold conditions no matter what you do to try and insulate it better. No matter how good a RV in insulated it will never be enough for freezing temperatures. Also, have you thought out a plan for dumping of the holding tanks?

I think building the 'cottage' would be much better as to keeping the place warm. You can heavily insulate it. A wood stove would be ideal heat. If you heat by electric it would be expensive. Buying an RV is going to cost you plenty and you could put that money into the cottage. Would your parents be able to utilize the cottage after you leave? If so, perhaps they could help with building it since it will be a part of their property.

Another thought - instead of a separate cottage, can an extra room just be built onto the existing house? Then it could really be utilized nicely when you leave.

...just some more things to think about. Good luck!