Forum Discussion

Gene_M's avatar
Gene_M
Explorer
Jun 30, 2015

Retired, first time buyer

Greetings everyone,
I am recently retired and looking for my first motorhome. I'm interested in a Class C maybe 22' to 24' long. We intend to start out with some long weekend trips not too far but we want to get some longer trips in after we "adjust" a little. Just my wife and I and we're looking forward to some traveling.

So, my concern is the purchase of that first used motorhome and doing it right so we don't get a "problem child".

A little background before my question:

This past weekend we saw two, one on the New Jersey shore a 2004 Minnie and it was about as rusted as could be underneath, the roof leaked also and the slide was inoperative - it was listed as "Mint":h walked away.
The other was in MA and it had 15000 miles on it, a 2006 Forrest River Lexington M-235S, very nice underneath with almost no indication of rust said to have been a one owner vehicle. it was a Chevy G35 frame with the 6.0L engine, the slide topper was ripped and there was a small hole in the large side awning. I drove it but it was really in need of a tune up. I wasn't able to check out the water/plumbing because the owner is not going to bring it out of winterization. There was a CARFAX report that indicated it had changed owners 3 times within 5 years. They wanted top dollar for it when compared to the NADA Guide.

So, here's my concern:
I almost went through with the purchase but then my haste dissolved and my engineering experience woke up, I guess Iwas caught up in the moment, but we got home and after a while I felt uneasy and thought "what am I doing, I can't make this purchase I couldn't test ALL of the systems" I mean the generator worked, on the third try; the power slide worked; the Awning worked; not sure about the fridge, microwave or stove/oven and the water system. And it seemed like the owner wanted to move it out, it was her father's.

I decided to back out because of not enough information on those items I couldn't check.

The question:
Did I do the right thing, did I pass up a good one, or am I being a little too skittish? How in depth should I be on my inspection?

Honest opinions please.

Gene.

152 Replies

  • Ivylog's avatar
    Ivylog
    Explorer III
    Welcome to the forums. You need to slow down and get better educated. Are you sure the two of you will enjoy RVing? If in doubt then renting a Class C first might save you some money... I've been told divorces are expensive. The joke about retirement, well actually it's not a joke: Twice the husband on 1/2 the money in 1/10th the space. Oops, at 24' that's 1/20th the space.

    It worries me when I see first timers looking at short MHs. I learned the expensive way $$$$ that you should buy more MH than you think you need ...ONE TIME. The shorter the rig the smaller the tanks... have to dump and refill more often. Cuts down on how long you can go off the grid... boondocking.

    Without a trade it's a buyer's market and cash is king. Never pay more than NADA low retail.

    Water leaks are a common expensive problem with many RV's. More fiberglass in the roof areas the better. For two people you do not need the cab over bed so something like this is better but at 24', still too short.
  • Gene_M wrote:
    Greetings everyone,
    ... I wasn't able to check out the water/plumbing because the owner is not going to bring it out of winterization. There was a CARFAX report that indicated it had changed owners 3 times within 5 years.

    Did I do the right thing, did I pass up a good one, or am I being a little too skittish? How in depth should I be on my inspection?

    Honest opinions please.

    Gene.


    Smart move, IMHO.

    Any owner doesn't want to un-winterize a coach for sale in June (almost July) seems kinda dodgy.

    When you look at a coach you should be able to check everything, including all appliances and the electrical and plumbing systems.

    Any owner who doesn't want to spring for a tank of LP so you can check the water heater, oven and 3-way fridge shouldn't get your money, either.

    If you don't feel qualified to do a full inspection, there are mechanics out there who will do it for you for a fee.