Hi!!I recently purchased a 2008 Keystone Springdale 249 fifth wheel from an older couple, who only used it one month out of the year. They stored it inside otherwise. :B However, I'm not sure how much regular maintenance was done. :?It has a Suburban water heater. The anode nut has a lot of rust on the threads where it goes into the water heater. I have a 1-1/16" socket, but can't break the anode rod loose, even with help from a hammer. I've tried a little WD-40 on the threads - no good. The seller said the water heater worked fine. I figure if it's rusted really bad there, the rod itself is probably shot.Any suggestions?Thanks!!

A six point socket, a short extension, and a power bar with a pipe on it. Have a helper bang with a hammer onto the power bar extension as you apply pressure at the end of the pipe. I expect it will come loose then.Or an electric or air powered impact gun.

WD-40 is USELESS for freeing rusted objects.The best product is PB Blaster. Squirt liberally for 2 - 3 days before trying to break nut loose.

Thanks! I just tried my Lithium battery powered impact wrench. No good. I'll look around for a pipe, to get more leverage.

x2 on what Darsben said. PB Blaster is amazing stuff.

watch what your twisting, you,ll rip other things loose. if you can a little turbo torch heat would help. use wisely.

Rusted anode nut | Good Sam Community

darsben
Explorer II
Aug 20, 2014
Wadcutter wrote:
Put down the long handle breaker bar.
Several days soaking with PB Blaster. WD40 isn't penetrating oil. After a few days soaking fill the water heater and turn it on so the water gets hot. It will heat to about 115*. After a couple of hours of the water heating then spray the nut with compressed air like for computer parts. The air will be cold. The heat of the threads and the cold nut will usually break free.

Oh wow what a great idea
Wadcutter
Nomad
Aug 20, 2014
Put down the long handle breaker bar.
Several days soaking with PB Blaster. WD40 isn't penetrating oil. After a few days soaking fill the water heater and turn it on so the water gets hot. It will heat to about 115*. After a couple of hours of the water heating then spray the nut with compressed air like for computer parts. The air will be cold. The heat of the threads and the cold nut will usually break free.
westend
Explorer
Aug 19, 2014
Heat the area around the threads in the tank, and the nut. Douse it with water. The dissimilar metals and their oxides will break loose due to the thermal differences.
ksg5000
Explorer
Aug 19, 2014
I found Kroil oil works when other penetrating oils don't - cost a bit more but it's worth it.
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Aug 19, 2014
Just be careful with that hammering and heating with a torch......it's a Suburban which uses a steel tank that is 'glass-lined'
old_guy
Explorer
Aug 19, 2014
one trick I have learned over the years on how to break loose a frozen nut. try tightening it first. it will break loose sooner than trying to loosen the nut.
calamus
Explorer
Aug 19, 2014
midnightsadie wrote:
watch what your twisting, you,ll rip other things loose. if you can a little turbo torch heat would help. use wisely.

X2 a little heat around the nut not on the nut and it should break free
powderman426
Explorer
Aug 19, 2014
Sometime if you try to tighten it, it will break free.
midnightsadie
Explorer II
Aug 19, 2014
watch what your twisting, you,ll rip other things loose. if you can a little turbo torch heat would help. use wisely.
midnightsadie
Explorer II
Aug 19, 2014
watch what your twisting, you,ll rip other things loose. if you can a little turbo torch heat would help. use wisely.

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