We finally decided to join the RV lifestyle!
Hello fellow RVers, My husband and I are in our early 50's. I retired from the federal government early last year and he's still working. Although we are new to RVing, we are veteran tent camp...
Forum Discussion
My rule of thumb -
Occupied trailer with electricity to run the heater.
Expected low temps no lower than 30 degrees - unhook water hose - drain - run on freshwater in the tank. Close grey water valve if open. This was in a trailer with exposed tanks and plumbing. But I still do that in my enclosed/ heated underbelly trailer. Not worried about the trailer, don't want the water hose to freeze/ break. Nor the waste drain hose.
Expected low temps down to 25 - Same in enclosed/heated trailer - but I would blow out the lines for the unenclosed trailer.
Expected low temps below 25 - I'll wrap the exposed waste valves in a duct sleeve from Home Depot - add a electric heat pad if expected below 20.
Stored outdoors
Expected lows near 30 - drain fresh water tank, drain low points, turn on water heater bypass - blow out the water lines with an air compressor. Add about 1/3 gallon RV antifreeze to sink, shower and bathroom basin. Add 1 gal RV antifreeze to toilet (I keep 3-5 gallons of water in the black water tank - so I use a lot more antifreeze to make sure the lower end by the dump valves is sufficient level of af.)
Expect lows below 30 - Above and Remove water heater anode and drain heater. I then go back and crack all the water heater bypass valves so those plastic ball valves will not be holding water. Those are the most likely to be damaged items in the system in my opinion. They are tight, cheap plastic and easily cracked by that small amount of water freezing.
I have run RV antifreeze through a trailer system ONCE. Took almost four full fresh water tanks to get it out.
Remember, never run RV antifreeze through the water heater.
The entire drain, blow out the system with an air compressor, add RV antifreeze to drains / P traps - takes about 15 minutes. I have a very small air compressor that will run off a 300W inverter plugged into my truck cigarette lighter. I like this air compressor because I can make sure I'm not running more than 35PSI through the system.
Having to pull the water heater anode takes another 5 minutes. I do keep a 1 1/16 socket in the truck to make getting the anode in/ out easier.
The first time will take you close to a half-hour, maybe a little more. But after that, you will be comfortable with the process.
My practice might be a bit excessive to some, might be too little to others. I works for me. I think I'm being extra conservative.
But I really hate chasing plumbing/ water leaks.
Occupied trailer with electricity to run the heater.
Expected low temps no lower than 30 degrees - unhook water hose - drain - run on freshwater in the tank. Close grey water valve if open. This was in a trailer with exposed tanks and plumbing. But I still do that in my enclosed/ heated underbelly trailer. Not worried about the trailer, don't want the water hose to freeze/ break. Nor the waste drain hose.
Expected low temps down to 25 - Same in enclosed/heated trailer - but I would blow out the lines for the unenclosed trailer.
Expected low temps below 25 - I'll wrap the exposed waste valves in a duct sleeve from Home Depot - add a electric heat pad if expected below 20.
Stored outdoors
Expected lows near 30 - drain fresh water tank, drain low points, turn on water heater bypass - blow out the water lines with an air compressor. Add about 1/3 gallon RV antifreeze to sink, shower and bathroom basin. Add 1 gal RV antifreeze to toilet (I keep 3-5 gallons of water in the black water tank - so I use a lot more antifreeze to make sure the lower end by the dump valves is sufficient level of af.)
Expect lows below 30 - Above and Remove water heater anode and drain heater. I then go back and crack all the water heater bypass valves so those plastic ball valves will not be holding water. Those are the most likely to be damaged items in the system in my opinion. They are tight, cheap plastic and easily cracked by that small amount of water freezing.
I have run RV antifreeze through a trailer system ONCE. Took almost four full fresh water tanks to get it out.
Remember, never run RV antifreeze through the water heater.
The entire drain, blow out the system with an air compressor, add RV antifreeze to drains / P traps - takes about 15 minutes. I have a very small air compressor that will run off a 300W inverter plugged into my truck cigarette lighter. I like this air compressor because I can make sure I'm not running more than 35PSI through the system.
Having to pull the water heater anode takes another 5 minutes. I do keep a 1 1/16 socket in the truck to make getting the anode in/ out easier.
The first time will take you close to a half-hour, maybe a little more. But after that, you will be comfortable with the process.
My practice might be a bit excessive to some, might be too little to others. I works for me. I think I'm being extra conservative.
But I really hate chasing plumbing/ water leaks.
