30 AMP Connection at home

RasMouSein wrote:
Safety note people!!
Watch it when saying 240v outlet, for the rv one might be tempt to say 50amp 240v outlet, but in reality it's 50amp, 120v...
It by using both "legs" in the panel it's reduce the copper needs.
Only RV outlet are just for RV, welders dryers and stove, use 240v and have their own outlet.

Just like in your kitchen using the same neutral to the outlet, both receptacle are on different "leg". You can check with your multi meter and see that those outlet have "240v" but not really...

This isn't true. A 50A RV outlet is wired just like a standard dryer outlet. Nothing special about it at all and it is a 120/240V outlet.

Safety note people!!
Watch it when saying 240v outlet, for the rv one might be tempt to say 50amp 240v outlet, but in reality it's 50amp, 120v...
It by using both "legs" in the panel it's reduce the copper needs.
Only RV outlet are just for RV, welders dryers and stove, use 240v and have their own outlet.

Just like in your kitchen using the same neutral to the outlet, both receptacle are on different "leg". You can check with your multi meter and see that those outlet have "240v" but not really...

wnjj wrote:

westend wrote:
I'd suggest to get someone with professional experience to help you integrate your RV electrical system into your house. I do electrical repairs and it is all too common to find poorly distributed power as an owner upgrades to accommodate additional power needs.

FWIW, here is what I did: Added a 75A subpanel into my garage/shop. The 75A panel powers a 50 amp receptacle for RV power and a 50A receptacle for a welder. I also installed 4 X 120V GFCI duplex receptacles for various power tools and other garage/shop needs. So far, I have never tripped a breaker or tripped a GFCI circuit. I would do the same again, even if I had a 30 amp rated RV electrical system. It is easy to just pull three wires to a new 30A receptacle but is difficult to add in that fourth power wire for 240V service, should the need arise in the future. Also, with 50A service, wire size is increased so voltage drop becomes a non-issue.

If someone only has a 30A RV, a compromise would be to pull wires for 240V of a size for 50A service but cap one wire off on both ends and install a 30A 120V breaker and receptacle. That way there’s no need for dogbone to plug in at home and easy to upgrade later if needed and there’s still the larger wire lower voltage drop benefit.

I had thought to mention the alternative you posted but the majority of expense is in wire cost and most of the RV pedestal type enclosures offer a variety of receptacles. If I'm willing to purchase the larger wire, I'd go for a 50 amp enclosure and call it done.

Works GREAT!!! It fit nicely into my power cord reel compartment.

westend wrote:
I'd suggest to get someone with professional experience to help you integrate your RV electrical system into your house. I do electrical repairs and it is all too common to find poorly distributed power as an owner upgrades to accommodate additional power needs.

FWIW, here is what I did: Added a 75A subpanel into my garage/shop. The 75A panel powers a 50 amp receptacle for RV power and a 50A receptacle for a welder. I also installed 4 X 120V GFCI duplex receptacles for various power tools and other garage/shop needs. So far, I have never tripped a breaker or tripped a GFCI circuit. I would do the same again, even if I had a 30 amp rated RV electrical system. It is easy to just pull three wires to a new 30A receptacle but is difficult to add in that fourth power wire for 240V service, should the need arise in the future. Also, with 50A service, wire size is increased so voltage drop becomes a non-issue.

If someone only has a 30A RV, a compromise would be to pull wires for 240V of a size for 50A service but cap one wire off on both ends and install a 30A 120V breaker and receptacle. That way there’s no need for dogbone to plug in at home and easy to upgrade later if needed and there’s still the larger wire lower voltage drop benefit.

pianotuna wrote:
Hi jk,

shore power outlet-->autoformer-->rv cord

That configuration will raise the voltage and lower the amperage. The number of watts stays the same.

Without the autoformer to support the voltage the amperage must go up--and that may do damage to the air conditioner. It may also melt plugs and adapters because they are carrying too many amps.

While that is true at the RV, at the outlet that the RV is plugged into, the amperage goes up. The way the Autoformer works is by pulling extra amps from the outlet and converts them to the extra voltage. It actually makes it easier to overheat the plug/outlet and/or pop the breaker feeding the RV.

I'd suggest to get someone with professional experience to help you integrate your RV electrical system into your house. I do electrical repairs and it is all too common to find poorly distributed power as an owner upgrades to accommodate additional power needs.

FWIW, here is what I did: Added a 75A subpanel into my garage/shop. The 75A panel powers a 50 amp receptacle for RV power and a 50A receptacle for a welder. I also installed 4 X 120V GFCI duplex receptacles for various power tools and other garage/shop needs. So far, I have never tripped a breaker or tripped a GFCI circuit. I would do the same again, even if I had a 30 amp rated RV electrical system. It is easy to just pull three wires to a new 30A receptacle but is difficult to add in that fourth power wire for 240V service, should the need arise in the future. Also, with 50A service, wire size is increased so voltage drop becomes a non-issue.

Hi jk,

shore power outlet-->autoformer-->rv cord

That configuration will raise the voltage and lower the amperage. The number of watts stays the same.

Without the autoformer to support the voltage the amperage must go up--and that may do damage to the air conditioner. It may also melt plugs and adapters because they are carrying too many amps.

It is true there will be some losses from using the autoformer. But it allows me to run my roof air when shore power is low voltage. So far the worst I've seen is 97 volts. The autoformer raised it up to a safe value.

I use my autoformer in the winter as well so that I get the full benefit from electric heaters.

jkwilson wrote:
An autoformer can't make any difference. The power that comes out of an autoformer will always be a little less than what goes in, so adding an autoformer results in the RV drawing more current through the adapter.

Low voltage has no direct effect on an adapter. If you have low voltage at a 15/20A outlet, it is either wired wrong or you are drawing too much current out of it.

Cummins12V98 wrote:
If someone has a dinosaur electrical system they should be spending the $$$ to bring it to modern times instead of buying an RV. I know, harsh!

True,I agree... But the way the regulations are set up around here you can purchase a fairly good used RV for less money then what it will cost to rewire everything in your yard. Even a brand new pop up camper or smaller TT would be less money.

The mistake people made was not upgrading the electrical system decades ago when it was still affordable. If you didn't do it then you can't afford to do it now. Your stuck. And, it sucks to be you.

I run the AC in my TT on a 20 amp circuit in my machine shed all the time. It is the only thing running on that circuit. I do have a voltage meter to keep a eye on the voltage. I've never had a problem even when the compressor kicks in.

I also feel the plugs and the connector once and awhile to make sure that they are not getting too hot.