A little confused about winterizing

YES......there are WRONG

The BYPASS valve and line need to be on other side of the Hot (Top) and Cold (Bottom) valves

The way it is plumbed right now if you close cold & hot and open bypass no water can flow thru bypass and out hot

Correct way for 3 valve



In yours......
The 'Tees' and bypass valve were installed where the valves SHOULD have been installed and valves installed where 'tees' and bypass valve should have been installed

If handy change it around yourself with new PEX clamps (old ones have to be cut off w/o damaging the PEX) or install using compression fittings or sharkbite connections

Otherwise....dealer to correct if still in warranty (ones new)


As is..........you can NOT get antifreeze into hot water side of system unless you fill water heater with it (leave valves open and pump 6-7 gallons)

OR leave them open (and open bypass to drain that short section) and open all drains----water heater tank and low point drains then blow out with air

You have a three valve bypass system, and all that is required is to change each valve to the opposite setting to go from normal to winter bypass. This is actually the most robust version, trust me I have the single valve and one of my check valves gave it up this year. You have no check valves in this configuration.

That's what I assumed. I just thought maybe I was missing something obvious. Thanks for the quick reply. One more item for the warranty repair list I guess.

janstey58 wrote:
You have a three valve bypass system, and all that is required is to change each valve to the opposite setting to go from normal to winter bypass. This is actually the most robust version, trust me I have the single valve and one of my check valves gave it up this year. You have no check valves in this configuration.

Look again.

janstey58 wrote:
You have a three valve bypass system, and all that is required is to change each valve to the opposite setting to go from normal to winter bypass. This is actually the most robust version, trust me I have the single valve and one of my check valves gave it up this year. You have no check valves in this configuration.

No that's not correct! It's setup wrong, as has already been pointed out....

Whoever plumbed this one has already consumed way too much "antifreeze."

its just the opposite of what it should be.
I am curious what make is the RV ?

From all that is wrong with my new one I am guessing Forest river !

Jack L

EV2 wrote:
Whoever plumbed this one has already consumed way too much "antifreeze."

Overheard on factory floor.......

"Hey Ralphie, got a new guy. Where do you want him on the line?"

"Have him do the plumbing on the water heaters"

"OK"

"Alright..here at the valves and tees, tubing is over there. Use blue for bottom and red for top. Got it?"

"Yeah....just put 3 valves and 2 tees -------RIGHT?"

" That's it"


End of day.....

"So how did it go?"

"GREAT..no problems at all. Didn't get called out on anything!"

"OH, we don't inspect here..dealers take care of that"
"See you tomorrow"

Rdn6405 wrote:
That's what I assumed. I just thought maybe I was missing something obvious. Thanks for the quick reply. One more item for the warranty repair list I guess.

How long is your warranty?

If you cut the bands on top/bottom 'Ts' closest to water heater and the bands on top/bottom valves farthest from water heater (4 bands total) you could then pull the whole bypass/hot-cold assembly, flip it around and then reinstall with 4 new bands........done

The picture that your posting of your valves is in it's normal hot water heater mode. To winterize all you've got to do is: Close the hot and cold water valves, and open the bypass valve. It's that simple.