A little uncomfortable with my set up...

95jersey wrote:

mhamershock wrote:
Before you go all bonkers try this:

https://www.amazon.com/Husky-32218-Center-Line-Spring/dp/B00W919FL8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540589689&sr=8-1&keywords=husky+centerline+ts+weight+distribution+hitch

Get the 1200 lb bars. I run this now - the difference from a friction bar setup was MASSIVE. And if it doesn't help at least you will have a decent hitch for your next trailer.

M

Just want to follow up on this old post. I bought the Husky Centerline with the 1200-1500 bars and WOW! Huge difference. Tows like a dream. It is really good. No sway even at 65-70mph. This was a great cheap alternative. It cost me $230 or so and works phenomenal. Thanks for this recommendation!

Thanks for the follow up - glad to hear it worked out so well!!!

Mike

mhamershock wrote:
Before you go all bonkers try this:

https://www.amazon.com/Husky-32218-Center-Line-Spring/dp/B00W919FL8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540589689&sr=8-1&keywords=husky+centerline+ts+weight+distribution+hitch

Get the 1200 lb bars. I run this now - the difference from a friction bar setup was MASSIVE. And if it doesn't help at least you will have a decent hitch for your next trailer.

M

Just want to follow up on this old post. I bought the Husky Centerline with the 1200-1500 bars and WOW! Huge difference. Tows like a dream. It is really good. No sway even at 65-70mph. This was a great cheap alternative. It cost me $230 or so and works phenomenal. Thanks for this recommendation!

Really the only thing that is going to make this "feel" the way you had probably hoped it would feel when towing, is a bigger truck.

Sure you have the max tow and air bags and all that, but 31 foot trailers just don't tow the same as their shorter, lighter, brethren. Especially with a F150. From what you describe, I feel like you need more tongue weight, yet I also feel like you have a lot of tongue weight to begin with.

The engines on the F150's are truly amazing with the power and ease they pull with, which can make you think you can pull just about anything, and well for the most part you probably can. But for how far, how safely, and how it "feels" is a whole different ballgame.

And I wouldn't be surprised if you went smaller and still didn't care for it. It sounds like you have the trailer you want. Upgrade the truck. You wouldn't be the first nor the last to take a bath on the upgrade. It happens, probably more often than not.

You can try the different hitch ideas, the different receiver ideas, all of that, and you might get close to happy. But then one day you will be just clearing the trees as a 18-wheeler rolls back in the other direction, it will sway, and you won't be happy again.

I know how much these trucks cost and it sucks big time to take a hit, but either way your going to take one whether its 5000 on the truck upgrade or 3000 on a hitch and 2000 on LT tires.

Or get the smaller unit and cross your fingers. Maybe you can test drive one or something? Seems odd, but its been a minute since I've been the dealer so I don't know if they would do this for you.

Just my thoughts.

A search will reveal contributor Ron Gratz “Three Pass Scale Method” from 2010. I’ve used it here with others, and over on Airforums. Although not called that originally, it’s a set of reference numbers to analyze basics. A formula. Find it and make a copy.

All three passes are made the same day. Max fuel. Full propane & fresh water. That’s the minimum for TARE.

A camping load is that plus whatever else. All passengers on all three passes.

The short version is that the TV Steer Axle needs to wheigh the same as when solo or towing. That’s the starting point. More weight, or less may be best.

You want to waste time, try Fords recommendations on hitch setting. GIGO.

This also allow one to dial in the TV tire pressure. That’s according to Load. Too high and steering & braking are worse. TT tires are always to sidewall max.

A towing rig has three components:

1). Tow vehicle
2). Trailer
3). Hitch rigging

It’s equal importance for all three.

A properly set hitch is what preserves steering & braking control. ITS A STEERING COMPONENT.

A 1,200-lb hitch weight is the province of cars, SUVs and vans. How a WD hitch works is what solves that problem.

And a Hensley patent hitch is a fraction of the cost of either of the TV or TT. It’s dirt cheap for what it does. No more sway, guaranteed. Your choice of tow vehicle needs it as badly as the trailer.

As you have both the worst tow vehicle design, AND worst specific travel trailer design, “stability” is a word needs to be tattoed on you somewhere as a reminder. Either is bad with any other mate. Together, they’re a problem, just waiting.

After getting some feedback driving in different hitch settings, it’s time for weighing the TT axles separately. Ask the Cat Scale Weighmaster for help. They have specific instructions on how to do this. That’s the final hitch adjustment to work.

You also need to test brakes. The combined rig should stop slightly sooner than the pickup once the trailer is parked.

Did I see that you are passing big trucks? Nearly all of whom are at or above 65-mph early this year. That’s too fast for a pickup when solo.

A pickup is just barely okay when kept in a straight line on a sunny day with dry pavement. Far from other vehicles. Make it a point that you are NEVER surrounded by other vehicles. Ever. Cancel cruise and back off.

Put your family first. You don’t have the brakes, the steering or the stability. No RV does. (You are DEPENDENT on everyone else acting correctly. One fine morning, one or more of them won’t).

No lane changes. Maybe pass one or two others on the Interstate in 300-miles. No braking except to exit the highway. . That’s closer to the definition of what is a successful day on the road than what others will recite.

Understanding how average speed works is what matters (not set speed).

Changing one TH to another won’t help unless the replacement has fully independent suspension plus anti-lock disc brakes. Your problem isn’t TT length or weight.

Know the stability problems. And TEST.

Make the accommodations for what you have. The result you wanted. And then take it easy. It’s vacation time.

Numbers are a baseline. Not optional.

Slow down, the trailer is bigger than your last one and requires a different driving style. Towing anything over 60 mph is foolish in my opinion, you simply can't stop or avoid anything towing at higher speeds.

95jersey wrote:

mhamershock wrote:
Before you go all bonkers try this:

https://www.amazon.com/Husky-32218-Center-Line-Spring/dp/B00W919FL8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540589689&sr=8-1&keywords=husky+centerline+ts+weight+distribution+hitch

Get the 1200 lb bars. I run this now - the difference from a friction bar setup was MASSIVE. And if it doesn't help at least you will have a decent hitch for your next trailer.

M

THis is a nice unit at a great price, LOTS of positive reviews THANK YOU!

Even my 2018 HDPP benefited from this hitch. Turned a decent tow experience into an amazing ride - smooth, stable, even relaxing. Setup was easy. Only negative is that it can be noisy at very slow speeds when turning. I don't spend that much time doing that so it doesn't bug me.

mhamershock wrote:
Before you go all bonkers try this:

https://www.amazon.com/Husky-32218-Center-Line-Spring/dp/B00W919FL8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540589689&sr=8-1&keywords=husky+centerline+ts+weight+distribution+hitch

Get the 1200 lb bars. I run this now - the difference from a friction bar setup was MASSIVE. And if it doesn't help at least you will have a decent hitch for your next trailer.

M

THis is a nice unit at a great price, LOTS of positive reviews THANK YOU!

Before you go all bonkers try this:

https://www.amazon.com/Husky-32218-Center-Line-Spring/dp/B00W919FL8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540589689&sr=8-1&keywords=husky+centerline+ts+weight+distribution+hitch

Get the 1200 lb bars. I run this now - the difference from a friction bar setup was MASSIVE. And if it doesn't help at least you will have a decent hitch for your next trailer.

M

aftermath wrote:

95jersey wrote:
FINALLY some useful information. Over the weekend I took the RV to my dealer to get winterized and asked them to weight the tongue.

drum roll...1280lbs (no bikes, no water, but fully loaded otherwise).

I don't know when I will be able to get to a CAT scale, as I am booked every weekend until late November. So for now, this is all we got.

So I am definitely exceeding the WD hitch rating (1000lb) at minimum.

95, a few observations on your situation. First, you have stated that you would like to downsize the trailer. If that is true then do it and be done with all this nonsense. If you are willing to try to get thing under control without spending tons of cash then you have lots of suggestions. 1. Tires: this will not be a waste of money even if you change trailers so start there. 2. A More Sturdy Hitch: Likewise you can transfer this to your new trailer and probably be better off.

And now a question I have. You found out the TW on your trailer but it wasn't loaded with your toys. 1200 is pretty heavy and I am guessing that this number will go way down when you load the TH. How did it handle when empty? Was is stable or did it sway? The rule of thumb is the heavier the TW the more stable the tow. Before you give up, you might want to load your stuff in the back and then weight the tongue. Just a thought. AS you take weight off the tongue it can get more difficult to tow. The challenge here is to keep the numbers within spec.

Believe it or not, regardless if I have 0, 1 or 3 bikes, it doesn't really change much. Even if I have no water or full water (54gall). It is just unpleasant if there is any wind or 18 wheeler passing by. The thing is just SO tall. On the interstate when I go through an area of highway that doesn't have trees lined on either side of the freeway, I can immediately tell (more wind). Amazing how the trees help keep the wind down. On tall bridges...forget it, slow down and hold on.

I have towed with an without water/bikes in combination. I don't really feel a difference as far as load. I would even go as far as saying when I was towing it new without ANYTHING loaded into it just locally, it was still being blown around.

95jersey wrote:
FINALLY some useful information. Over the weekend I took the RV to my dealer to get winterized and asked them to weight the tongue.

drum roll...1280lbs (no bikes, no water, but fully loaded otherwise).

I don't know when I will be able to get to a CAT scale, as I am booked every weekend until late November. So for now, this is all we got.

So I am definitely exceeding the WD hitch rating (1000lb) at minimum.

95, a few observations on your situation. First, you have stated that you would like to downsize the trailer. If that is true then do it and be done with all this nonsense. If you are willing to try to get thing under control without spending tons of cash then you have lots of suggestions. 1. Tires: this will not be a waste of money even if you change trailers so start there. 2. A More Sturdy Hitch: Likewise you can transfer this to your new trailer and probably be better off.

And now a question I have. You found out the TW on your trailer but it wasn't loaded with your toys. 1200 is pretty heavy and I am guessing that this number will go way down when you load the TH. How did it handle when empty? Was is stable or did it sway? The rule of thumb is the heavier the TW the more stable the tow. Before you give up, you might want to load your stuff in the back and then weight the tongue. Just a thought. AS you take weight off the tongue it can get more difficult to tow. The challenge here is to keep the numbers within spec.