Forum Discussion
BenK
Aug 13, 2013Explorer
As with anything...all things...it is a system and to only look at one
aspect is to potentially take it out of context
Marketing folks do that all the time...take something or one component
of the whole out of context.
Yes, synthetic 'can' produce or allow higher MPG, but depends
Depends on stuff like what type of ICE, size of that ICE, architecture
of that ICE, the load (empty, small 'car' or towing several tons, etc),
terrain, ambient, and the two biggies: #1 how you drive and #2 your
maintenance schedule
Take my 'ex' and her driving style, terrain, ambient etc...
Mud hen recycled jug oil would be just fine, but she doesn't maintain
it well. So one of my 'ex' sedans now smokes a bit (her new BF's driving
style doesn't help). Know this because she still uses the my mechanic
I used to fill with Mobil 1 synthetic and PureOne filters. Tried leaving
it in there over one year...but just could not stand it. So changed
it...old oil came out just as clear as the new charge going in
My Sub had a fresh charge of Mobil 1 synthetic and new filter installed
for a trip towing my old +8.5K lb boat up to Lake Tahoe a few years
ago. Noticed the gang was running much harder and figured showing that
one loud mouth who constantly bragged that his half ton Toyota could
out tow 250's, 2500's, etc
Okay, I'll join and nailed the throttle most of the way. That loud
mouth had to take in his Toyota and the kid next door to me worked
at the local dealer. Told me a new automatic and diff were installed
At just over 500 miles on that charge, noticed my big block consume
about 1 quart, dash oil PSI gauge fluctuated and lower PSI...changed
the engine oil and all went back to normal...must have worn out the
additive package and film/shear/etc strength of the engine oil reduced
Ditto flushed the 4L80 and diff fluid with sythentics
Film strength, temp range (high end is the main criteria) and the
additive package are the key differences between 'regular' oil and
synthetics. Then the different oil OEMs and how they refine the stuff
My big block ICE won't notice dino vs synthetic, as the pumping losses
of a big block has the differences in the two types of oil lost in that
Now my 2 seater and the old 2.4L in-line six does show the difference
as the pumping losses are no where near what my Sub's big block are
There are too many attributes, studies, etc, etc, etc to discuss on
this thread. I've been studying automotive via boy racer passion since my teens
My first charge of synthetic had one quart cost as much as my hourly
wage. Where the whole 'it is good for 20,000 miles' comes from, IMHO
Today's dino is most likely better than the synthetic's back then
aspect is to potentially take it out of context
Marketing folks do that all the time...take something or one component
of the whole out of context.
Yes, synthetic 'can' produce or allow higher MPG, but depends
Depends on stuff like what type of ICE, size of that ICE, architecture
of that ICE, the load (empty, small 'car' or towing several tons, etc),
terrain, ambient, and the two biggies: #1 how you drive and #2 your
maintenance schedule
Take my 'ex' and her driving style, terrain, ambient etc...
Mud hen recycled jug oil would be just fine, but she doesn't maintain
it well. So one of my 'ex' sedans now smokes a bit (her new BF's driving
style doesn't help). Know this because she still uses the my mechanic
I used to fill with Mobil 1 synthetic and PureOne filters. Tried leaving
it in there over one year...but just could not stand it. So changed
it...old oil came out just as clear as the new charge going in
My Sub had a fresh charge of Mobil 1 synthetic and new filter installed
for a trip towing my old +8.5K lb boat up to Lake Tahoe a few years
ago. Noticed the gang was running much harder and figured showing that
one loud mouth who constantly bragged that his half ton Toyota could
out tow 250's, 2500's, etc
Okay, I'll join and nailed the throttle most of the way. That loud
mouth had to take in his Toyota and the kid next door to me worked
at the local dealer. Told me a new automatic and diff were installed
At just over 500 miles on that charge, noticed my big block consume
about 1 quart, dash oil PSI gauge fluctuated and lower PSI...changed
the engine oil and all went back to normal...must have worn out the
additive package and film/shear/etc strength of the engine oil reduced
Ditto flushed the 4L80 and diff fluid with sythentics
Film strength, temp range (high end is the main criteria) and the
additive package are the key differences between 'regular' oil and
synthetics. Then the different oil OEMs and how they refine the stuff
My big block ICE won't notice dino vs synthetic, as the pumping losses
of a big block has the differences in the two types of oil lost in that
Now my 2 seater and the old 2.4L in-line six does show the difference
as the pumping losses are no where near what my Sub's big block are
There are too many attributes, studies, etc, etc, etc to discuss on
this thread. I've been studying automotive via boy racer passion since my teens
My first charge of synthetic had one quart cost as much as my hourly
wage. Where the whole 'it is good for 20,000 miles' comes from, IMHO
Today's dino is most likely better than the synthetic's back then
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