..Motor quit working on the Dometic 9100 power awning on our Georgetown MH. Already tracked the issue down to the motor - Disconnected it, did a continuity test between the two wires coming out of the motor, it is wide open, shorted internally. Time to put in a new motor. Fortunately, it didn't quit until after I rolled the awning up at end of last trip of the season (we're done camping for the year), so I have all of Fall, Winter to fix it, so can take my time. Really want to do this repair myself as it seems pretty simple.Questions:1. Instructions I've seen from various videos on this, show that you drill out rivets to remove old motor assembly, and use a rivet gun to rivet the new one in place. I don't have a rivet gun, is it really necessary to use rivets to put in the new motor? Can I not just use a couple of properly sized sheet metal screws to mount the new motor onto the end of the roller tube?2. Been looking around at various options on where to get the replacement motor assembly. Seen a handful of retailers on ebay that sell them for much cheaper, claiming they salvage new, perfect working motors off of damaged awnings. Has anyone bought/used one like this? Would this be a good idea, or just asking for trouble? Please, only respond if you have specific experience with such motors, I don't need to hear about the risks of buying off ebay or general comments about buying used vs new, I understand that risk completely.3. Any other advice, suggestions from anyone thats done a motor replacement like this on an awning?What is NOT needed:Any comments saying this is why anyone prefers manual over an electric awning. I've had both, and suffice it to say they both have their pros and cons, and I prefer an electric one. No need to beat that dead horse again.As always, thanks in advance for any/all suggestions, advice, etc. :)

I replaced my awning motor until with one bought on line, no issues.I used an old mechanical pop-rivit "gun" they are cheap as you don't need a "hydraulic" one. The holes are made for pop-rivits and it would be next to impossible to secure a nut on the inside.

WNYBob wrote:I replaced my awning motor until with one bought on line, no issues.I used an old mechanical pop-rivit "gun" they are cheap as you don't need a "hydraulic" one. The holes are made for pop-rivits and it would be next to impossible to secure a nut on the inside.I know there's no way you'd get a nut on the inside. I was thinking of using some self-tapping/threading type sheet metal screws. I seem to recall years ago when I had to have the torsion/spring assembly replaced on a manual awning we had on another RV, that the technician that did it just used screws, didn't use rivets to put new one in, so was wondering if I could do the same thing here..Will

I read on this forum a poster replaced his motor with a window motor from Amazon.Amazon has a variety of awning motors but not cheap.The Dorman motor is like $40

Big Katuna wrote:I read on this forum a poster replaced his motor with a window motor from Amazon.Amazon has a variety of awning motors but not cheap.The Dorman motor is like $40I read about that, too, using power window motors from a car for this. Not gonna do that.Will

Awning motor replacement questions | Good Sam Community

willald
Explorer II
Aug 25, 2016
1968mooney wrote:
willald wrote:
1968mooney wrote:
....Just remove the old motor and google the number on it. It will reference to the replacement motor. I purchased mine from Autozone and it came with a lifetime warranty.

The motor on mine is such that I don't think you can remove and replace just 'the motor'. Its a complete assembly, includes the end piece to the awning arm, the cap that goes on end of roller, etc. It looks like THIS.

You're not going to find anything like that from Autozone, or off a car door's power window. It is going to have to be ordered from a RV parts retailer.

That is, unless you were to take the whole assembly apart, separate the motor, find a replacement motor, and try to put that replacement motor back on this assembly properly. No way am I going to try that, I'd never get it back together right, haha.

I contacted Dometic directly, they want $408 for a replacement motor/drive assembly (oouch!). Fortunately, they gave me the part # for this drive assembly. A quick Google search on that part # brought up several different RV parts retailers (Tweetys, PPL Motorhomes, Pacific RV parts to name a few) that have this part for considerably less $$, around $300 (new). I've found several other alternatives as well (reconditioned, and ones that were salvaged off damaged awnings), for considerably less, around $100-200. Will probably go that route.

Mine was different. Very simuliar to http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/A1C1/82338/01200.oap?year=1995&make=Ford&model=F-150&vi=1122309&ck=Search_01200_1122309_-1&pt=01200&ppt=C0335

Yep, I've seen those. If I had one like that where the motor can easily be separated from the assembly, I'd seriously consider going that route.

Unfortunately, mine is not quite like that. Guess the Dometic/A&E folks decided too many owners were doing like you did, and repairing their awnings too easily with other parts, and they had to put a stop to that. :)
willald
Explorer II
Sep 04, 2016
Update, and end to this: well, I got a motor from a retailer on eBay. Got the replacement motor for $125. Put it in yesterday, it works great now. Was a bit of a challenge, had to take the old motor out, put the new one in while up on a ladder. had to have my son hold the roller up with a long pole why I got the new motor in place.

I haven't put the 3 rivets back in yet to hold the end cap on. Decided not to put rivets back in, it's too precarious a position I'd be in, up on a ladder. That, and never worked with rivets, a bit nervous about doing such for first time when up on a ladder. A couple of sheet metal screws (self tapping) will work just fine and be much safer to put in. Got the screws yeaterday, going to put them in later.

Very happy to have this done, and having done it myself and saved a good bit of $$.
1968mooney
Explorer
Sep 04, 2016
willald wrote:
Update, and end to this: well, I got a motor from a retailer on eBay. Got the replacement motor for $125. Put it in yesterday, it works great now. Was a bit of a challenge, had to take the old motor out, put the new one in while up on a ladder. had to have my son hold the roller up with a long pole why I got the new motor in place.

I haven't put the 3 rivets back in yet to hold the end cap on. Decided not to put rivets back in, it's too precarious a position I'd be in, up on a ladder. That, and never worked with rivets, a bit nervous about doing such for first time when up on a ladder. A couple of sheet metal screws (self tapping) will work just fine and be much safer to put in. Got the screws yeaterday, going to put them in later.

Very happy to have this done, and having done it myself and saved a good bit of $$.

Congrats: Happy you got it working. :B
bobsallyh
Explorer II
Sep 04, 2016
willald, thanks for getting back with the completion. Always interested on how things turn out.
JohnG3
Explorer II
Sep 04, 2016
We have a 9100 Dometic awning and just changed the fabric which entailed removing the motor. The advice to get a pop rivet gun is spot on as the pop rivets are 3/16 with large a round flange. The aluminum roller is very thin and may not hold up to the forces developed by the motor. Mark the position of the end tube on the roller. If you do not replace the motor assembly in the proper indexed position the awning will not unroll to the proper length (don't ask me how I learned this info). All technical instructions are available on line.
wa8yxm
Explorer III
Sep 05, 2016
willald wrote:
did a continuity test between the two wires coming out of the motor, it is wide open, shorted internally. is it really necessary to use rivets to put in the new motor? Can I not just use a couple of properly sized sheet metal screws to mount the new motor onto the end of the roller tube?

Much clipped. First a nit.. An open and a short are exact opposites, If you showed OPEN circuit, then it is NOT shorted anywhere..

now the question "Can I sue screws" Of course you can, no problem at all, make them fairly shourt (like quarter inch) the problem with screws however is unless you check them from time to time (like Every time) they can come loose and fall out... Rivets do not do that.
willald
Explorer II
Sep 08, 2016
wa8yxm wrote:
willald wrote:
did a continuity test between the two wires coming out of the motor, it is wide open, shorted internally. is it really necessary to use rivets to put in the new motor? Can I not just use a couple of properly sized sheet metal screws to mount the new motor onto the end of the roller tube?

Much clipped. First a nit.. An open and a short are exact opposites, If you showed OPEN circuit, then it is NOT shorted anywhere..

Hehe, I wondered if someone would catch me on that mistake. Yes, you're right, it indeed is not an OPEN circuit, it is/was a SHORT. Now that I have the old motor off, I can see that the short is somewhere internal inside the motor (its not the wires going into it, so it is very doubtful I could have repaired this motor.

now the question "Can I use screws" Of course you can, no problem at all, make them fairly shourt (like quarter inch) the problem with screws however is unless you check them from time to time (like Every time) they can come loose and fall out... Rivets do not do that.

Actually, I came to same conclusion, and did not like the screw idea after putting just one in. Sooo, I took it out, went and got me a rivet gun from Harbor Freight, and put in rivets instead. Like it much better this way, looks just like it did from the factory. :)

Will

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